Replies

I am now running Windows Defender in Windows 10. Does it have a specific time to run the scan, or do i need to
schedule a scan? If so, how do I create a scan?

Many thanks
Dave

Hi Dave,
Defender doesn’t have a scheduler. Only a manual facility, quick, full or custom on it’s home page. To run a scheduled scan use the Windows Task Scheduler. It will take care of it once you set it up. Use the search box window to locate it.

If you don’t have the search function icon or box on the taskbar, right click the Start button & select Search. Look for Scheduler, select it, and the scheduler screen will open and tell you all about it. Follow it’s instructions. It can be bit daunting at first, but you’ll find it’s not too bad once you start to use it.

Where are these settings located?

Control Panel>>>Windows Defender>>>Settings.
If Win 10 use the PC Settings gear wheel or right click the Start Button to see the Control Panel or type Defender in the search box.

.

I am having that problem. I don’t know if this is situation is the same. I am losing both mouse and keyboard each time I plug my fan into a USB port. When I remove it, the mouse and keyboard resume working. Are the other USB ports in use?

The USB hubs can’t supply more than 5volts @ 500ma max. If your fan is over these figures and especially if it’s plugged into the same hub as the K/B & Mouse then the fan will suck all the available power the hub is capable of supplying.

If the fan doesn’t exceed 5Vx500ma then pick another USB port thats not on the same hub as the K/B & Mouse. To check the hubs in use and available power go to the Device Manager and check each of the USB hub properties.

Also as suggested by Sudo15, your power supply might be suspect especially if it’s 5volt supply is running close to it’s maximum ratings.

I’m assuming it’s a desktop PC and some desktop PSU’s have very little capacity to spare. IE: a 350watt PSU might be near it’s max rating, especially if you’ve added additional cards, HDD, SSD or other hardware etc to the machine since you obtained it.

If a LapTop then try another USB socket for the fan, assuming the LTop power supply has enuf guts to support the fan’s power rating.

@artiep: “Interesting that he was running 2 packages and neither detected the problem. ”

That might be why!!!!

Not might be ! It is !
Running 2 AV Apps at the same time (Except Malwarebytes free scanner, but you don’t need too, unless you suspect an infection, more than once a month, maybe !) is a NONO
! it not only confuses them both, but also slowszzzzz your PC down,significantly, and may cause it to stall. They will fight each other.
Win10 V1607 Anniversary has a much better Defender built in and it will run a real time scan if enabled in settings, and a BOOT SCAN in settings if needed. It’s easy & Way to go ! It’s maintained by Microsoft with their update system, so you don’t have to fuss with other bloatware.

That’s odd….. There are also quite a few free boot-time scanning products you can download if you suspect something is awry that your AV product is missing.

Rob

If your using the latest Windows 10 Anniversary V1607, you don’t need other bloatware or expensive AV Apps. They ALL add additional processing overhead for no reason, if your careful what you click on !
Windows 10 V16 Defender has a boot time scan BUILT into it’s settings.
It will tell you it’s going to reboot, then do it & restart with Defender OFFLINE. Another reason to update to Windows 10 V16.

Sorry I think you mean a CR2032 battery? Last two #’s mixed.

Your right. It’s been a long day & it’s late (2am) in Melbourne. Thanks for picking it up.

I use Defender and the free version of Malwarebytes

So do I.
If your running Win 10 firewall and Defender, running with any other AV is just bloatware. Never had an attack going way back to Win98. So many get carried away with all the AV junk around and waste money on them. IMHO.

Hmmm,

I’ve just ran ‘netplwiz’ on the tablet, deselected the option for password login and clicked OK. As expected it prompted for my user name and password which I duly entered and clicked OK again. Upon restart it took me straight to the desktop. No PIN or password required.

PC – x64 Insider Pro build 14905.1000
Tablet x86 Insider Home release preview build 14393.82

Worked fine for me as well

Good suggestion from mrjimphelps.
I’ve run into the very same problem on several desktop PC’s (not so easy to fix on laptops) If the CMOS battery is dead, there’s no boot data for the USB keyboard or mouse.
It’s easy to check if you have a meter. Place the POS probe to the battery that’s exposed on the motherboard of your desktop PC and the NEG probe on any exposed metal. Your meter should tell you immediately what the CMOS battery voltage is…3volts is normal. If it’s less than that expect BIOS boot problems.

The battery is normally a CR2023 from any supermarket or PC store. If you don’t have a meter, take the PC to your local computer tech and he can check it quickly.

mrjimphelps suggestion to use a PS/2 mouse & PS/2 keyboard is also a good start point if your PC has them on the back of the machine. They are colour coded green and purple with symbols to indicate which is the keyboard socket and which is the mouse socket. Be gentle, the sockets are very easily damaged.. Good luck.

Forgot to mention..
It is possible your power supply is dead so there’s no 5 volts or 12 volts for the motherboard or the USB 5 volts systems. Again easy to check with a meter and one of the power supply cables which support a hard disk drive. The 4 sockets on the end of a cable are black=Neg and the other’s are yellow and red which should be giving 5 volts and 12 volts, which are not critical +/- 10%.
Be careful you don’t short circuit these socket pins when testing. The power supply doesn’t like short circuits !

Another possibility which will check that the power supply is OK, is the BIOS POST (Power on Self Test).

If the POST test is good the PC (most of them) will give one ding ! If no ding’s it could be mean either the MOBO or the power supply is the culprit. Any more ding’s than one, (both short and long ding’s) indicate other problems which means you need to google the BIOS maker & find out what the number of ding’s you heard..mean. You need to count them carefully. A wrong count is very misleading.

Check your Chrome startup options in the Chrome browser settings. (3 bars, top right corner, select Settings, near the bottom of the list).
If an extension is controlling your start page, (Settings will tell you), you can either stop it or reset it’s options. Restart the browser if you make changes to any settings.

Make sure Chrome is up to date ?
To find out,…Click “Help and About” also in the “Customise & Control Google Chrome Control screen. (3 bars icon).
If Chrome is not up to date, let Chrome update it. Currently V 46.0.2490.71.m
A restart is needed after an update !

Hi Bruce,
Wondered if the shortcut could point to tls2 ?
My understanding is that it would automatically fall back to tls1.1 or tls1 as required if admins are too lazy or busy to implement the latest ?

Hi donebb,
Do you have the latest Chrome update..it’s Version 37.0.2062.103 m

If so, go to the chrome://plugins & see if your installation has BOTH the Shockwave Flash Players..Pepperflash V14.0.0.177 and the Adobe Macromed Flash V14.0.0.179. You will see them on the ‘Location’ line in the list for each.

If you have both, disable the Macromed Flash player. There’s an enable/disable option for each plugin. Watch it doesn’t disable both the Flash versions, if so just ‘Enable’ the Pepperflash option again, so the Adobe Macromed version is disabled.

The Adobe version is a dud. Adobe hasn’t been able to get it to function correctly for over 6 months.
If you don’t have the Pepperflash version, it’s a bit of a fiddle to get it, but Chrome does provide it as part of the installation, because so many have had problems with the Adobe flash player.
Let’s know & I’ll try to remember the procedure to get it. I’ve had Pepperflash running for so long !

Yes, IE is generally the best browser.

But it’s certainly now a bad choice on XP.

No; this current flaw is in IE, not Flash (although Flash is used by the current IE attacks).

The Microsoft Security Advisory linked above doesn’t mention Flash at all, because there could be other means of exploiting the IE flaw (in vgx.dll).

I think only IE and Chrome have their own Flash updates.

Bruce

Sorry Bruce..my bad. When I said IE: (meaning, for instance) Chrome etc, maybe I should have said.. EG: Chrome etc.

Internet Explorer is not my 1st choice, if ever. I only use it, when M$ updates force me to use it.
Microsoft seems to think everyone who uses IE are tech types & know what all the IE options mean. Most of those I look after, don’t have a clue what all the settings in IE mean or do ! Some of M$ explanations leave me puzzled & scratching my head & I’ve been working with the technology for 45 years..!

If you implement this M$ work around, to the letter, and don’t remember to back them out when a fix is released…. future updates will probably fail!. Great !! More hand holding for many users.

Still, I guess, something, is better than nothing, especially for XP, which is stuck with IEV8 & it is only going to get worse! The die-hard users will hang on, experiencing more & more problems from virus or malware attacks as time passes! If they suffer enough, & they will, maybe they’ll get the message ?

satrow,

So many videos, especially uTube, depend on the Flash Player. Constantly enabling & disabling the Flash Plugin, is a pain! Disabling the flash player plugin isn’t a good solution.

A better solution IMHO is stop using IE, it’s a dog !
There are much better browser options or choices. IE: Chrome, Comodo Dragon or Firefox to name a few. Just a thought!
They also use a Flash Plugin, their own version, so not sure if they also suffer from the exploit.
Does anyone know ?

I agree with Fooman 100%.
One of the most annoying sites for anyone who needs to update their driver software would have to be UniBlue. They try to kid you that you need to update the drivers then want you to buy their lousy software.
It’s malware in every respect..IMHO !
The worst aspect now, is even motherboard manufacturers are off loading their driver updates to UniBlue & then want you to buy it before allowing any downloads. We need to tell the MOBO manufacturers what we think of that move….
If they are getting a kickback, for my money, I’d give THEM a kickback where it has the best affect ! I won’t buy their MOBO’s. If motherboards have bugs or need new BIOS, the manufacturers should be providing it, not UniBlue!