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I ordered a new printer – Canon TR8520, $100 + tax

I bought my ip6700D with a few extra cartridges at a garage sale for $20. I don’t understand why drivers are too complicated for the manufacturer to routinely update them from a new OS, but that’s life.

My distress in over trashing the old printer. I’ve volunteered at Household Recycling Goods for 12 years. I will list it on Craig’s List for free for someone not running Win 10.

Thanks for your responses.

2 users thanked author for this post.

Elly, Mr. Austin

RetiredGeek wrote:

bbearren,

Thanks for this post! It got me to wondering so I downloaded the latest version of Crystal DiskMark 7.0.0h portable and gave it a go. I was utterly surprised by the results. I thought I had Magician enabled on my G: (Data) drive and low and behold I had it enabled on my H: drive which I use for short term backups and testing. I had been wondering for some time why there was a lag opening up Excel, Access and Oulook. So I changed drives (the confusion is the way Magician listed the drives for some reason it lists them in 0,2,1 order at least according to Windows Disk Management. So after a couple of reboots to change the Magician settings all those Office programs leap on to the screen as their data files are all located on the G: drive.

Here’s the before and after.

G: drive – Samsung 850 Pro SSD – SATA – Without Rapid Mode

Now with Rapid Mode enabled:

The interesting part is how slow my Samsung 960 EVO NvMe M.2 boot drive is in comparison!

Looks like I should have save the money on that NvMe drive.

The interesting part is how slow my Samsung 960 EVO NvMe M.2 boot drive is in comparison!

Looks like I should have save the money on that NvMe drive.

So, I’ve been studying M2 and NVMe and concluded that any new PC should use M2 x4 (or 8) and maybe get NVMe is it is practical.

You are a serious presence in this Lounge, and seem like a guru to me, so I must ask: why do you think your M2 performance is so poor? In your computer specs, it seems your M2 drive is also a Samsung, but I did not scope out what MB you have, but do you suspect that is the issue?

I putz along, but I try to understand what’s going on. I found your post because I searched for M2.

Thanks

Thanks,. Paul –

But I don’t want to miss your point.

[*]How can I remove the HP software and printer?

[*]Device Manager doesn’t show printers, Control Panel doesn’t have delete option, the printer properties only gives me options to change the driver.

[*]And, “let Windows find its own drivers”is what I did.

[*]But the only choices are those on the HP DVD – the PC is not connected to the web.
[*]The 1st time, Windows selected the first NT driver – that didn’t work in Windows (I don’t remember if I tried the DOS stuff. I deleted the printer (I think by highlighting and hitting DEL) and rebooted.
[*]Next time Windows found a different driver, and this worked with Windows but gave me “access denied” from CMD..

[/LIST]

But, as I type this, I realize I need to methodically go through each driver they supplied and test each one.

[*]From the command box, do “copy con lpt1 ENTER showpage ENTER CTRL/Z”

[*][*]I am expecting that if I get that to work, my legacy 4GL system will also work

[*]Print a “Test Page” from Windows (Windows printing is desirable but not essential)
[/LIST]

Thank you for the gift of your replies. You are helping me maintain my sanity.

PS – HP Chat help was absolutely useless. They told me I had to find help on a Linux support site…

That HP is USB only so it’s not connected to LPT1. You need to emulate LPT1 for that to work.
Sharing the printer seems to be the answer.
http://superuser.com/questions/182655/how-do-i-simulate-a-parallel-lpt-printer-with-a-usb-printer

cheers, Paul

Thanks, but, no, the HP DOES have a parallel connection. I didn’t think they would still make any, so I called HP.
My legacy system requires a laser printer with PCL-5 and the parallel port. I’ve used various OKI, Brother, and HP printers over the years.

So I am still trying to figure out why the HP won’t talk to the command box or my old system but it will talk to Windows.

PS – I will investigate your link. I wasn’t sure if there would be a way to do that, but in the meantime I choose the easy route.

If you are using the Settings app, click “Time & Language”, then at the bottom of the right pane click on “Additional date, time, & regional settings” (should open Control Panel), click on “Region”, then click on the “Administrative” tab.

Thanks, Joe. I appreciate all help, even when it seems it might not pertain. I don’t think the problem is UNICODE, the FONT seems changed, but the backslash specific issue seemed like that might be useful.

But there is no “Admin” tab under my settings / time & language / region & language

[*]The triggered screen heading = control panel clock, language, and region
[*]Left side choices = CP home, system & security, network & internet, HW & sound, programs, user accts, appearance and …, clock lang region, ease of access
[*]Right side choices = date and time, language, region
[INDENT][*]Language choice shows “English US” (with add, remove, move up/down) plus panel on left with Advanced settings and change date, time, or number formats
[INDENT][*]Advanced offers overwrite language or input method
[*]Change format (HOORAY) brings up a REGION screen w/ tabs Format, location, and >>>Admin<<<
[INDENT][*]Admin shows "Language for non-Unicode programs" as English US[/INDENT][/INDENT][/INDENT]

It would seem "English US" is what I want.

Why does the screenshot show C:Documents and SettingsUser if this is Windows 10? Shouldn’t that be C:UsersUser?

The screenshot looks like a command prompt that’s showing the Yen (¥) symbol instead of a backslash, in Windows 10 go to Control Panel > Region > Administrative (tab) and check the Language for non-Unicode programs matches the Windows display language on the first tab, i.e. Formats.

(In Win 7 it’s Control Panel > Region and Language.)

Hope this helps…

I am not using Win 7 – I don’t see the options you are citing in Win 10 Control Panel. Under SETTINGS search finds no UNICODE.anything. (I am using Win 10 Home, the Language is English, the Country is United States)

Am I correct that you are using 2 monitors with a single computer? Do both display the same issue? Does the issue go away if both are set to the same resolution such as 1440×900 along with the video adapter at 1440×900? Have you tried upping the percentage increase to 125% or 150%?

Yes, 2 screens.
Both have same issue on both
I’ve experimented with resolution settings when I setup the system. The “correct” settings (as defined by the monitor MFG and per Win 10 recommendations worked best.
Yes, I bump resolution often. As referenced in PS #2 above.

Does this look right? I copied the text on the next line from the screenshot below.
C:Documents and SettingsUser>ipconfig
45926-screen_display
(I assume the text line appears to you with backward slashes, and the screenshot does not – or maybe this is a problem for everybody?)

—————- added after reading respons(es) – maybe I’m not being clear —–
FIRST: The above text and screenshot is from a forum posting that illustrates the problem.
SECOND: Notice how UGLY the FONT is! It’s hard to read.

I’ve tried boot order HD 1st, CD 1st, I’ve added ethernet and disabled ethernet

Use this tutorial and install Open With right click context menu:

http://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/33975-open-context-menu-add-remove-windows-10-a.html

It seem bizarre that I need to download and run something, but THANK YOU, it was easy and fast…

What filetype(s) are you trying this with? My photos are jpgs and I have the ‘open with..’ just like Berton.

The choices shown are for a JPG file (I just checked: same choices on GIF file)
I am using the standard (AFAIK) Windows 10 File Explorer.

I usually right-click a file, choose Open With and get a list. If what I want is not there I scroll down to pick the choice at the bottom about Choose another app and wade through the list of Installed programs to make a choice.

That’s what I want to do (my other PC is Win XP), but on Win 10 my only choices are:

[*]Open [i.e., no “with”, no R cursor…]
[*]Set as Desktop Background
[*]Print
[*]Rotate Right or Left
[*]Cast to Device
[*]Scan with Windows Defender
[*]Cut or Copy
[*]Create Shortcut, Delete, Rename
[*]Properties

SOLVED – I found an NVidia panel that allowed me to accomplish my goal.

~ half your Core 2 Quad; using more than ~3.5GB RAM means a 64-bit version of Windows is needed.

OK, I did not notice the “Duo” because I thought all “Core 2” CPU’s were quad. Oops on me

Is there a 32-bit version of Win 10 Pro? I just assumed they’d all be 64-bit. And, admitting more ignorance, I did not know that 32-bit versions had lower RAM limits.

Thank you much

hobkirk,

One thing to be careful of is which versioin of windows 10 are you getting? If it’s the OEM version it will be tied to that Lenovo machine and if it proves underpowered you’re out of luck! As they used to say “An educated consumer is our best customer!” HTH :cheers:

I am asking in this forum because you guys know all this stuff! I don’t.

What does Microsoft do when they upgrade? I assume the Lenovo comes with OEM version, but does that mean it is intrinsically tied to a Lenovo PC? (Somewhat embarrassed that I hadn’t thought of that.)

Make sure your scroll lock is off

HTH,
Maud

Do you really think I am that much of an idiot?
You’ve fixed my problem.
Thank you, thank you.
I don’t remember using Scroll-Lock ever in 30 years. Nor “Pause/Break” in maybe 20 years.