Replies

Paul T wrote:

Blocking random senders is pointless because spammers change the “from” all the time. Mark it as spam and let Outlook do its thing (which, as I recall, is not great in O2016).

You can improve Outlook’s “blocking” of many such spam emails by a simple edit of the blocked email address.  Many of these spam emails will have the same domain address (the email address after the @ sign) and just change the username part of the address (the email address before the @ sign) to create a different total email address which will get by Outlook’s junk mail blocker.

After blocking a spam email with a unique domain address, go to Outlook’s Junk Mail Options to the Blocked Senders list.
Find the just blocked email address and select it.
Click Edit to open the edit window.
Remove the username part of the address and leave just the @ sign and the domain name.
Click OK and Apply.

Now any email from that domain will be blocked which is way more than that one total address from that domain. Note: This should only be done for those junk emails that have a unique domain address.
Also the term blocked means it is blocked from the inbox and goes directly to the Junk Email folder.
Also you can set the Junk Email folder to automatically deleted these junk emails.

HTH, Dana:))

WUBRINY wrote:

Is there something shady about Stack Social? I’m not seeing it.

EDIT WARNING:
I went to the link you posted for Stack Social and looked around. Did not fill out any data or provide any info. Less than one minute after leaving the site I got an e-mail asking if I’m still interested in the deal. I never gave them My email address, but they somehow got it from my visit to their site. I don’t trust any company extract my private info without asking.

Cheap price because of the little time left for those versions to be supported.

Office 2019 – has support until Oct 2025 (7 months)
$30 for 7 months = $4.28/month

Office 2021 – has support until Oct 2026 (19 months)
$55 for 19 months – $2.89/month

Office 2024 – has support until Oct 2029 (55 months)
$250 for 55 months – $4.54/ month

The Office 2021 appears to be the best deal; however, in 19 months when support for it ends how much will the cost increase? Would it have been cheaper in the long run to get Office 2024 at a set price with no possible price increase for 55 months? That is the reral question for what is the best deal.

HTH, Dana:))

While I think prices will rise, not at the level of 25% as just for the tariff. Why? These things were outsource to these countries to lower the cost and outsell the ones manufactured in the US. When the cost of PCs made in one country is cheaper than the cost in another (tariffs or labor costs), the manufacturers will move back to those countries to keep the price down and sells up. This will raise the cost, but not 25%.
The manufacturers are already switching as indicated in this article:

Lenovo joins growing China exodus as manufacturers flee US tariffs — OEM moving production lines to India

HTH, Dana:))

2 users thanked author for this post.

SueW, Kathy Stevens

If your default High performance power plan has the USB power management option disabled, which is the default for many systems; then these command will help.

Open an Admin Command console
Enter the following command at the prompt and press the Enter key

powercfg -LIST

(note the space after powercfg)
The console will display the Power schemes for the device. The one with the * is the current power scheme being used.
One scheme will have (High performance) after its GUID (long line of letters and numbers).
Highlight the High performance GUID and copy it.
Most likely the GUID for the High performance is
8c5e7fda-e8bf-4a96-9a85-a6e23a8c635c
which is the default for most Windows 10 High performance plans, but I’m not sure about Windows 11.
At the prompt enter the following command replacing GUID with the GUID you copied above.

powercfg -setactive GUID

(To enter the above: type powercfg, enter one space, type -setactive, enter one space, right click to paste the GUID you just copied, and press the Enter key)
It will appear that nothing happened, but if you run the -LIST command you will see that the High performance is active.

Once you know the GUID for your system then you can place that command in a .bat file and have Task Scheduler run it on a regular basis.

BTW:  To check those advanced Power Options quickly:
Copy the below and paste into a Run box.

control.exe powercfg.cpl,,3

HTH, Dana:))

For backup.

You can’t add a shortcut to the folder so it will add to the taskbar, but you can replace a shortcut that was already been added to the folder by another shortcut to that same app/file.

Also:
If you delete the shortcut that was used to pin the shortcut to the Taskbar (like a shortcut on the Desktop), the shortcut will remain on the Taskbar and still function. If you go to that folder and delete that Taskbar shortcut from that folder, the shortcut will be removed from the Taskbar on a restart of Windows Explorer. This function and folder allows you to keep the only shortcut for that app/file on the Taskbar and in that folder.

HTH, Dana:))

1 user thanked author for this post.

wavy

The attached PDF are the instructions I have written to launch any app from within Word. And yes, it uses a macro. You can create a icon for it and attach it to your Quick Access bar.

Be sure to include all the shortcut such as
“C:\Program Files\Google\Chrome\Application\chrome_proxy.exe –profile-directory=Default –app-id=kjbdgfilnfhdoflbpgamdcdgpehopbep”

NOTICE: I moved the quotation mark after proxy.exe to the end. Not sure how that works as a shortcut (correction – I see it is a command), but as a shell command in the macro the whole shortcut is placed in quotes and not just the Path address.

If the above doesn’t work – exactly how are you using the “command” to open the Calendar.

Launch-Any-App-with-a-Word-Keyboard-Shortcut

HTH, Dana:))

Bob Bell wrote:

Is this possible to do this with store apps, and if so, could you explain how?

Yes, here’s how:

Open a Run box (WinKwy + R), enter shell:AppsFolder and press the Enter key.
This opens the All Apps Explorer window with all install apps (including Microsoft apps) on the PC.
Scroll thru the list and find the Microsoft app you want a shortcut for.
Right click the app’s icon and select Create shortcut.
It will post a message that it can’t place a shortcut in that folder and do you want the shortcut placed on the Desktop instead. Answer Yes and a shortcut to open that app will be on your Desktop.

HTH, Dana:))

1 user thanked author for this post.

windbg

lmacri wrote:

Does anyone know of another way to capture a screenshot of a UAC warning without having to temporarily decrease the security of the UAC setting in your user account?

No, that’s the purpose of the UAC…no other input from any app (possible malware) until the user has responded with an external input.   System is locked waiting on that input.

Lowering the security is one way to get the screen capture. I simply take a picture with my phone and transfer to “screenshot” photo to my PC.

BTW: There is a work around to avoid that UAC window when opening that or any other app that requires the UAC approval to run.  Use the Task Scheduler to pre-approve the action and prevent the need for the UAC window.  OR Switch to the Administrator account that does not use the UAC approval steps.

HTH, Dana:))

1 user thanked author for this post.

lmacri

wavy wrote:

I notice that the copilot icon is missing from that location. Can one add or subtract from that folder with good results?

No.  The User Pinned\Taskbar folder hold copies of the shortcuts that the user pinned to the Taskbar.  The control of which icons are on the Taskbar lies with the original shortcut that the “Pin to Taskbar” action was taken on.  Adding or deleting shortcuts in the folder will not apply to the shortcuts on the Taskbar.

This folder displays only those shortcuts that the user pinned to the Taskbar.  Shortcuts added to the Taskbar by Microsoft will not display in this User Pinned\Taskbar folder.  I guess you didn’t Pin the Copilot shortcut to the Taskbar, so Microsoft did and thus not a User’s pinned action.

HTH, Dana:))

1 user thanked author for this post.

wavy

Rick Corbett wrote:

The screen didn’t ‘dim for a second’ either time I tried it

Strange, both of my Windows 10 Home dim when the screenshot is taken.

Rick Corbett wrote:

PS – Was Screenshot (1) somehow lost in the post?

I wouldn’t think so.  It may have been created by accident in the past and some “cleaning utilities”  target this folder to delete files and gain space.

HTH, Dana:))

Mothy wrote:

Daisy chaining UPS units is not recommended. See the two links below for more info.

Maybe the UPS units are different now, but I have done it in the past on several occasions and it works.  Sure a line spike will go thru both units and fry both, but I used a spike arrester between the wall outlet and the first unit.  That bit about one unit going on battery causing the second to go on battery states “sine” waves, which bad spiking electricity.  In those days my UPS battery could keep you up and running for about 20 – 30 minutes.  When I piggy backed the UPS devices as I posted, it would stay up for 40 – 45 minutes, which is longer than either alone.

The UPS units may be different now and I noticed that the sites that say you should not piggy back UPS units also sell the extra battery packs and more expensive longer running systems that you should get instead.  BTW: Isn’t the second UPS the same as a battery pack?

HTH, Dana:))

1 user thanked author for this post.

LHiggins

LHiggins wrote:

I am looking for something that will provide battery power for 3-4 hours to keep my internet connected, and it seems that the regular UPS units just supply the power for a short time to allow proper shut down of equipment – not extended working time.

To get longer time out UPS units I used the old piggy back trick.  Two cheaper UPS devices that the combined up time is longer than a more expensive longer up time UPS.  Plug the first UPS into the wall outlet.  Plug the second UPS into an outlet on the first UPS.  Plug my devices into the second UPS.  When electricity goes out the first UPS goes on battery and the second UPS is still on electricity from the first UPS.  When the battery goes out on the first UPS, the second UPS will go on battery.   Result is longer up time.

HTH, Dana:))

2 users thanked author for this post.

LHiggins, TechTango

LHiggins wrote:

The battery backup I am looking at is rated at 15W – which is what the Gateway needs, so that should be OK

No, that will NOT work.   The new router pulls 15 V @ 3 amp max.  That is 45 Watts (V x A = W) which is 3 times more power than the battery backup you are looking at can supply.   It will hook up OK at first, but the first time the Gateway draws over 1.0 Amp the battery backup will fry and heat up a lot too.

The simple solution is a battery backup for 110 V.  Plug the AC adapter for the Gateway into the 110 V battery backup.  One that costs less than the one you are looking at can give 250 W.

Amazon Basics UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector 400VA/255W

HTH, Dana:))

1 user thanked author for this post.

LHiggins

CWBillow wrote:

How do I copy them to, say, the desktop so that I can then save them?

Not sure if this works for Windows 11 (works for Windows 10), but worth a try.

Open a Run box (WinKey + R)
Enter shell:User Pinned\Taskbar and press the Enter key.
This should open the folder that stores all your shortcuts on your Taskbar.
You can easily copy this folder and all of its shortcuts if you desire a backup.

HTH, Dana:))

1 user thanked author for this post.

wavy

This is not a viable solution for your situation, but there is a work around when this occurs.  Often the extra coding of some PDF files prevents Word’s PDF convertor from rendering correctly.  This extra coding usually has nothing to do with the data displayed in the PDF.

Open the PDF in your default PDF viewer (I use Chrome).  Print the PDF using the Microsoft Print to PDF function.  This saves the PDF to a PDF without any underlying code.   When you open this “Printed” PDF file with Word, most of the time it displays properly and any part can be copied and entered into Excel or edited.

“Discard:))”  Does that refer to me or my comments?

HTH, Dana:))

2 users thanked author for this post.

Glucose, Kathy Stevens