Replies

Microfix wrote:

Be careful using desktop-context-menu shortcuts with Winaero as explorer crashes with certain shortcuts after April 2025 CU

Thanks for the heads up.
I used the Registry tweak for the W10 Context menu and not Winaero, so I’m OK.

 

HTH, Dana:))

I like the use of classic Toolbars I create on the right side of the Taskbar.
I used ExplorerPatcher to get that classic Toolbar function in my W11.
This worked so well that I was able to copy a toolbar folder from my W10 directly into my W11. The Toolbar folder contain shortcuts to open Windows utilities. Most of the shortcuts still work and open those utilities in W11.

I really like Winaero Tweaker as it allows quick Font size change in different areas of Windows such as just the Taskbar or menus and has numerous other tweaks to make W11 look like W10.

HTH, Dana:))

2 users thanked author for this post.

Cybertooth, TechTango

Paul T wrote:

Run the utility in the thread mentioned and it will tell you what is going on.

System Information for Device Encryption Support states Elevation Required to View. I open System Information in an Admin Command console and found the reason none of the PCs were encrypted nor have Settings for Device Encryption under Device Encryption Support. One PC (an older W10 laptop) did not have Modern Standby. The others W10 & W11 had “Un-allowed DMA capable bus/device detected”.

Not sure what this error means exactly as the PCs with this error meet or exceed all the hardware and security requirements. One Microsoft MVP poster indicated the error could occur because RAM is not soldered in the MB (which is way above my understanding or how Windows can even tell that RAM is just plugged in or is soldered in). Interesting as both of these PCs have plug in RAM.

Paul T wrote:

“Device encryption turned on” means the keys have been migrated to an MS account. The disk is encrypted before the keys are migrated – meaning “at setup”.

What happens to the encrypted disk if you don’t sign on to a Microsoft account and you don’t migrate the keys to a MS account? Will you be able to decrypt the disk and use it or are you required to log into a MS account in order to decrypt the disk?
Many of the sources I have read indicate you must login to a MS account to use the Disk Encryption in the Home versions. I know this is different with BitLocker in Pro versions. With your W11 Home that was encrypted, did you set up a MS account?

HTH, Dana:))

Yes, Device Encryption isn’t turned on automatically when using a local account.
To turn Device Encryption on and perform the encryption requires you log into your Microsoft account. Described by the following author with screenshot stating Device Encryption requires you to sign in to your Microsoft account.

If you’re on local account, you need to sign in to your Microsoft account first. Then you can enable Device encryption option here by setting it to On.

Enable or disable Device Encryption in Windows 11

If you don’t have a Microsoft account for Window Home, you will not be able to turn Device Encryption on or use Device encryption.

Since I don’t use a Microsoft account with my Windows Home PCs, they can not be encrypted either automatically or manually by Windows Device Encryption.

It is interesting to find out that Microsoft requires you sign in to them to use software that is already installed on your PC and without signing in you can’t use that software.

HTH, Dana:))

b wrote:

A Microsoft Account is only a requirement for automatic Device Encryption. Device Encryption can be enabled with a local account, but you only see the setting if signed in as an administrator.

I am signed in as an administrator and even with the full administrator account. There is no settings for device. The link you posted stated:

When you first sign in or set up a device with a Microsoft account, or work or school account, Device Encryption is turned on and a recovery key is attached to that account. If you’re using a local account, Device Encryption isn’t turned on automatically.

and

If device encryption is turned off, it will no longer automatically enable itself in the future. You must enable it manually (if wanted) in Settings.

If device encryption isn’t available on your device, you may be able to turn on standard BitLocker encryption instead.

If you want to use standard BitLocker encryption instead, it’s only available on supported devices running Windows 11 Pro, Enterprise, or Education.

I read that as Device encryption is not turned on with a local account. If not turned on you must turn it on in the Settings which requires you to to be logged in as an administrator. If Device Encryption is not available it offers advice for different kind of encryption such as BitLocker available with other versions.

That sound like being logged in as an administrator doesn’t present a setting for device encryption, which is what I found on my PCs.

Paul – Did you set up a Microsoft account on that Windows Home? Even if you deleted it later.

Has anyone with with a new Windows 10 or 11 Home that setup only a local account (no Microsoft account) see the Device Encryption settings or have their PC encrypted?

HTH, Dana:))

Alex5723 wrote:

Home has Device Encryption vs Pro’s BitLocker

Yes and no.
This author at the link below points out why I never see encryption in Windows Home.

Is Device encryption available on Windows 10 Home edition?

TPM enabled computer

* UEFI enabled computer

* Computer must support connected standby

Besides the stringent hardware requirements, you must be using a Microsoft account to sign in to Windows 10 in order to turn on and use the Device encryption. When you sign in with a Microsoft account on a PC meeting hardware requirements, Device encryption is automatically enabled. You can check the same by navigating to Settings > Update & Security > Device encryption.

I applied the bold type to point out that statement.

Since all my Windows 10 and 11 Home systems have local accounts only, this explains why I never see Device Encryption settings. Device Encryption in Window 10 and 11 Home versions requires a Microsoft account installed on the PCs. I have a Microsoft account as an individual but not a Microsoft linked account on the PCs.

It appears there is another reason to setup a local account and not a Microsoft linked account….unwanted automatic device encryption.

HTH, Dana:))

Thanks for the link.
It provided the reason:

Note: If Device encryption doesn’t appear, it’s either unavailable on your device, or you might be signed in with a standard user account.

I placed the bold in the quote from that Microsoft link

It has never been available on any Windows Home that I have used. My new Windows 11 in System Information says the same thing all the other Homes have said for Device Encryption Support – Elevation Required to View

HTH, Dana:))

CWBillow wrote:

If I am just starting what will end up being a rather lengthy piece (250+ pages), is there any key piece or structure so that I can finish the project and THEN approach the TOC creation? M Like, is there a key code that if inserted, will tell Word “Okay, this is a Chapter/Topic to be recognized and associated with the page number?  SO that, I can then insert the “markers” as I write and create the TOC after the fact with everything in place?

This is what I do when writing a book with sections (aka: chapters).

I create a separate section at the beginning of the Table of Contents with a next page section break.
Start the page numbering with the fist page of the first Chapter/topic.
At the place where I will enter the Chapter/Topic title I enter a Bookmark. I name the Bookmark with the title and page it starts on such as “Chapter1P1”. and for Chapter 2 that starts on page 11 I name the Bookmark “Chapter2P11”.
When finished I can then enter the Table of Contents which will not disturb the separate page numbering of the Chapters.
To enter the Chapter in the TOC I select to Insert a Hyperlink and select Place within this document which will display a list of all the Bookmarks (chapter titles) in the document. From the Bookmark you can enter the Title for that Chapter and what page is starts on. If you want you can make that Chapter title a link to that chapter. I strongly suggest using links to chapters as 250 pages is a long document to scroll thru to navigate manually.

NOTE: Bookmark names must start with a letter, contain no spaces, and limited to 40 characters. Can use underscore form spaces such as “Chapter_1_P1”.

There are other ways to do this with Styles and Find and Replace functions, but I think the above is easier.

I made the above real easy to do by adding the Insert Bookmark and Insert Hyperlink functions to the Quick Access Toolbar and created keyboard shortcuts for each function.

HTH, Dana:))

Paul T wrote:

My Home 11 did come encrypted

WOW! I always thought one of the big differences between Home and Pro was encryption. I have never seen a Home version with Microsoft’s encryption and I have handled a lot of Home versions.
So I assume it came with encryption software?
In the Windows Privacy & Security settings does it have a setting for Device Encryption?
Did you remove the encryption?

BTW do you use a KVM switch with EDID and does the EDID really work to keep the screens and app placement and size intact between the switches?

HTH, Dana:))

Paul T wrote:

Did it come pre-encrypted? Have you kept / removed encryption?

This is Windows 11 Home and is not encrypted and does not have Microsoft encryption software to encrypt it.  This no encryption and no Group policy editor are just a couple reasons I chose Home over Pro.  Contrary to what Susan has said, I found it hard to find a high end PC that had Windows 11 Home.  Very happy with my choice:

Dell Inspiron 3030
14th Gen i7 14700 (up to 5.4 GHz) – 20 cores
64GB DDR5 RAM
1 TB NVMe SSD
UHD 770 graphics
Wi-Fi 6

Also contrary to what others have said, I placed this in my wish list several months ago and when I purchased just recently it was the same price it was several months ago and the price did not go up.

The only thing I did not research properly before buying was the KVM switch. I did not get a KVM switch with EDID emulation. When I switch from the Windows 11 PC to the Windows 10 PC all the open app windows shrink to windows default (aka: smaller) size. I’m using the work around for this, but I wish I had gotten a KVM with EDID emulation.

In the process of making images before I start making it a useful PC.

HTH, Dana:))

1 user thanked author for this post.

Cybertooth

I just set up a new PC with Windows 11 Home preinstalled.
I was not connected to the Internet for the complete process.
I created a local account using the
WinJS-Microsoft-Account-Bypass
that Susan posted the link for.
The whole process took about 5 minutes.
It came with 23H2. I paused updates for a few weeks until I can enter the stop for updating to 24H2.
I then connected to the Internet.
Currently set up with KVM switch to share the mouse, keyboard, monitor, and all external drives to both my Windows 10 and my new Windows 11.
Since I stopped the Updates, I did have to trigger a reset of the date & time for my time zone.

HTH, Dana:))

1 user thanked author for this post.

Cybertooth

Zig wrote:

No, but the device still isn’t removed, since the “add device” menu still doesn’t show the headphones. This is without an intervening reboot of Windows.

The Uninstall of the device in Device Manager removes the device from Windows Settings.  Rebooting with fast boot disabled makes Windows reestablish all drivers and settings.  This reboot completes the removal of the corrupt settings of the Bluetooth connection, which will allow the device to show in Add device and I suspect before the device is added that any Scan for hardware changes in Device Manager will not show the device.  Remember that this is not a physical device but a connection, so Device Manager is reporting only what Windows says is connected from its Bluetooth hardware connection settings (which are corrupt).

I’m sorry if I did not make it clear in my instructions as I always reboot when making deletions in Device Manager because of situations like this.  The Scan for hardware change is usually used when adding/removing hardware devices and not for connections listed as a device.

HTH, Dana:))

I usually don’t rescan for hardware changes.  I reboot (I have my reboot set for no fast startup so it i a clean reboot) and the vast majority of the time the device is gone.

After the uninstall and before the rescan for new hardware, is the device still listed in Windows Bluetooth settings?

Zig wrote:

?Is the secret removing the BT dongle and plugging in back in again?

When my posted fix doesn’t work, I uninstall the BT adapter in Device manager and unplug it.  Reboot the PC and then plug the BT adapter back in, starting anew.

HTH, Dana:))

Tom Walsh wrote:

When I block an email and open the “blocked senders list” and select a block sender and right click, there is no “Edit” option shown.

There is no right click. The image below shows the steps to open the Edit window.
Be sure you are in the Junk Email Options and the Blocked Senders tab.

HTH, Dana:))

I’m sorry my response is to late to help. I ‘ve been in no Internet land for a while and trying to catch up. This is for the future and others that look here for answers.

In moving Outlook calendars and contacts from one Outlook to another it is best to move them separately from the usual exported .pst files. No, there is no export calendar or contacts functions listed in Outlook’s Export window; but you can save the individual calendar or contacts folder as files which is the same as exporting. The calendar will save as an .ics file and the contacts will save as a .vcf file.

To Save (Export) an Outlook Calendar:
Select Calendars in left pane and select the Calendar you want to Save (Export)
Select File > Save Calendar
Select a name and a place to store this .ics file

To Import the Saved Calendar into the new Outlook:
Go to the Import function and select Import an iCalendar (.ics)
Select your saved .ics file and import it.

The contacts are saved and imported in a similar fashion using a .vcf file type.

Once the calendar or contacts have been imported, the contents can easily be moved to the new default calendars and contacts to combine the two folders and thus allowing you to delete the now empty imported folders. The calendar for the current default account (default email address) can’t be deleted, thus moving all the contents from the imported calendar to the default calendar works best.

HTH, Dana:))