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WSdogberry
AskWoody LoungerMarch 19, 2017 at 9:10 am in reply to: All Fonts Are Times New Roman. Yet Selecting-All (Ctrl+A) Makes the Font Selector Empty #1593774I now think that my suggestion has been a wild-goose chase.
I originally thought that I had two different sets of properties, one from the O.P. and the other from the original author. Now, however, I cannot duplicate that – the properties I have either online or using a saved version, viewed with either Word 2010 or Word 2013, are confined to those of the the original author.
I am really scratching my head over that, but if you learned nothing from this at least remember to check the Properties of documents when investigating them.
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WSdogberry
AskWoody LoungerMarch 18, 2017 at 3:12 pm in reply to: All Fonts Are Times New Roman. Yet Selecting-All (Ctrl+A) Makes the Font Selector Empty #1593715I don’t know how I got it, but I did get it, to my amazement, and the presence of a link would certainly explain it. If you can find the link, I suggest you fool around with it and you might come up with the very thing that I found.
What I found was the original document, in Word format, by the original author. It looks identical to the document that is posted, but if you tap the ‘File’ tab you will see that it bears the original author’s name, and most other properties have been cleaned up for publication.
Embedding that in an HTML file is one clever way of establishing copyright – you have to know where to look and what you’re looking for.
If you follow a link and get what looks like the document posted, check the File tab and compare the Properties.
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WSdogberry
AskWoody LoungerMarch 18, 2017 at 10:32 am in reply to: All Fonts Are Times New Roman. Yet Selecting-All (Ctrl+A) Makes the Font Selector Empty #1593691What in the world is going on here? I suspect something funky is going on behind the scenes?
…
Thanks to anyone who can shed some light on this enigma!
I suggest you look behind the scenes in your own posted document. Open it. Everything is as you described it. Now hit the FILE tab on the ribbon.
Holy smoke, so that’s who you are. … All that juicy information is part of the Word document itself, you know.
Funky or not, it is behind the scenes.
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WSdogberry
AskWoody LoungerCloning on an assembly line makes great sense. Each and every drive is identical. For a home user cloning makes occasional sense, typically when cloning an HDD to an SSD.
Imagining and restoring take longer, but the process gives a user more latitude in the operations the user chooses to perform. The result should be no different from that of cloning a perfect drive: the boot partition and all the rest remain in place and, in a nutshell, it works.
If it doesn’t work you still have two drives, the old and the new, so it is perfectly safe to try either or both.
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WSdogberry
AskWoody LoungerHave you tried imaging the first drive and restoring it to the second?
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WSdogberry
AskWoody LoungerIn the last few days, I end up with a blank screen with taskbar, and just realized the icons are there, just not visible until I sweep the cursor across the screen. They appear one by one, and I literally have to run the cursor over each icon location until they’re all displayed. Never seen this behavior before. I did install a new video card about 4 weeks ago, but it was working fine. Any ideas would be appreciated.
What a thread this post spawned (for those who follow links)!
Yes, I have seen it before, many times.
I don’t know if anyone suggested it or not – I got sidetracked when approaching the number twenty in one of the links – but my first move would have been to do the shortest and simplest thing I can think of, and right-click on the desktop, click View, and then Show Desktop Icons, to toggle them (as many times as you like, and possibly with a reboot thrown in). It only takes a minute and it just might work. If it doesn’t, well, you have the rest of this enormous thread for ideas.
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WSdogberry
AskWoody LoungerFor Needle-in-a-haystack problems in general, Copernic Desktop Search provides a 30-day trial, and if that can’t get it in thirty days then you have to buy it or give up. The latest version came out in January, so even if you have had it before then you can probably give that a shot, although personally, I reserve such trials for Really Big Game Hunting.
As it happens, I own the thing anyway so I’m not worried, but trialware is a neat thing to have up your sleeve for times when you might suddenly need it, and it’s a contingency affair – it may get what you want or not, and if it does (or doesn’t) you may be hooked on how useful (or otherwise) it is for your purposes.
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WSdogberry
AskWoody LoungerThere’s a bug in the forum editor/composer where it adds a space after the 25th character, most frequently seen with Regedit strings.
Does this mean The Lounge is providing alternative facts?
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WSdogberry
AskWoody LoungerYour description of your starting-point for the search was pretty vague. Did you go to Microsoft Office Tools – Microsoft Clip Organizer to look for it, or is the clip organizer part of your workflow at all?
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WSdogberry
AskWoody LoungerWhat you have provided is something that looks like a long string of characters but which is really two strings. You have a space in the middle.
Did it look like this?
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WSdogberry
AskWoody LoungerKaren’s Replicator was free, if I recall correctly, and there may be other freeware that is ‘close enough’ for your purposes if you don’t care for Windows’ own solution.
I think most paid backup programs will do what you want, but there is another option that may be worth keeping in mind, and that is to buy a new external drive. They’re pretty inexpensive these days and they typically come with bundled software that includes a data backup program. In the case of WD drives, a WD My Passport (Ultra?) includes WD Backup, WD Security, and WD Tools, and it will work on any computer so long as there is at least one WD drive somewhere in the system, even if it’s only the destination for the backup. I also have a WD My Book (4T) that includes those as well as WD Acronis, which is a limited version of Acronis (no incremental backups allowed).
I’m not a good source of advice about the performance of these programs even though I have them all, so I suggest you ask for opinions from experienced users. When you factor it into the price of the drive, a drive might look like a worthwhile investment.
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WSdogberry
AskWoody LoungerThose are all welcome posts. I have unrelated pressures, and will try to be brief.
‘Downgrade to Win7’ is correct. I can restore Win10 at any time, and in the short run it keeps me connected to the manufacturer for drivers and updates, not to mention the peace of mind of having a functioning system. But downgrade? Win10 is frivolous, Win7 is business. (I suspect 8.1 is fastest.)
At this writing Win7 K is probably the most desirable version, but if I installed 7K would the post-SP1 rollup work on that configuration?
‘Partitions are partitions… What’s different is how the computer finds those partitions and starts the boot process…’
This is a tangent, but I might ask about that principle as it applies to Windows to Go. I have had great success with one W2G installation on an external hard drive, which is all I really want or need, but in experimenting with newer drives (and flash drives and an external SSD), no luck at all.Third-party boot managers are my preference as well; mine has hitherto been EasyBCD. The recommended ‘adjustments’ are useful information.
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WSdogberry
AskWoody LoungerGood suggestion. I have the Canon 7D, so should I check their website?
If you bought the camera new, the whole shebang would have come with it. The possibility remains that if it isn’t registered to you, you might not be able to get such things quite as easily – but you probably can.
Go to the Canon site and keywords are ‘drivers’, ‘software’, ‘firmware’, and ‘manuals’ plus the model number of your camera. You can also try ‘tutorials’, just in case they have them, but there should be plenty of those elsewhere online.
Different manufacturers have different packages, so your mileage man vary.
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WSdogberry
AskWoody LoungerI like the Open Source XnView, which you might like to try.
It helps to remember that if you have an even moderately expensive camera (in my case Nikon and Sony), many come with bundled software that is both suitable most amateur purposes, and specific to your brand of camera and lenses. The software is updated regularly to accommodate new lenses or other hardware, and you can download updates to the firmware in the camera itself. It varies by brand, but you may also have online storage at the manufacturer’s site, and downloadable effects.
Be sure to ask about it when shopping for a camera, because it sure beats the price of professional post-processing software.
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WSdogberry
AskWoody LoungerI advise you to install Belarc Advisor.
It worked for me, and after such tales of woe I hope it will work for you. It will identify all of the missing critical updates, patches and whatnot, with links to retreive them, for all Microsoft products and many other products as well (e.g. Adobe).
Nothing ventured nothing gained.
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Patch reliability is unclear, but widespread attacks make patching prudent. Go ahead and patch, but watch out for potential problems. |
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