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I would also remind everyone to exercise the same caution when updating free programs. Clicking the update button inside the app can lead to unwanted downloads just like the original download did.

As an added note, SUMIF (not SUMIFS) is a supported function in Excel 2003 (SP3), and may serve your needs.

Is there any password keeping program that has the capability to:
-Open a scrolling alphabetized list of sites and programs when you right-click on any password entry box and pick the appropriate menu item? You could then pick the appropriate name of the site or program from this list, and the proper password/username/etc page of the password keeping program would be opened. Then you could select the username or password or other datum to be transferred into the box.

Password Keeper, a $20 shareware program I have used for a decade or so, keeps up to 1000 passwords and 16 credit cards. The passwords (randomly generated on command, or you can roll your own) can have up to 46 characters, and even include ALT-nnnn characters like ®. (Of course, not many password entry forms will accept characters like that.)

If you have the original installation file(s) at hand, you could try to uninstall the program (use Revo Uninstaller, e.g., for a complete uninstall) and then clean the Registry of traces of the old installation (these Forum pages have lots of advice on this process). Then, reinstall the program from scratch.

If you can find a thumb drive with a hardware write-protection switch, it should be immune to such shenanigans.

SD Cards, while they have a write-protect switch, are actually no good for this purpose because it’s not actually hardware write protection – at best the card reader sends a signal to the operating system that the drive should be treated as read-only. The write-protect switch on the cards is read by a sensor that’s part of the card reader, and the card reader then passes along to the operating system whether the card is read-only. (From http://www.fencepost.net/2010/03/usb-flash-drives-with-hardware-write-protection/)

That same URL also discusses issues with software-based and OS-based write-protection.
HTH.

Use Revo Uninstaller (or the like) to remove the bad actors.

Then, there are several registry cleaners (ccleaner, eusing free registry cleaner, easycleaner, etc) that can help remove registry entries left behind after uninstalling a program. Always do a complete backup before messing with the Registry, of course.

Also (if you’re brave) run regedit to search/remove all registry entries that mention “data manager” or “datamngr” or “mywebsearch”.

A free program called “Autoruns.exe” (google it to locate the download site) helps with a lot of issues regarding auto-run. It helps remove as well as add programs, plus a lot of other info on startup processes.

Using a program such as Irfanview will let you see the Image/Information which will show you the actual number of pixels (W x H) in each jpg. This may give you a clue about why they appear so different onscreen. Irfanview will also let you change the number of pixels to any value you want, to make them both appear the same size.

@F.U.N. downtown

Win 7 works like you described for XP — very slick. (Ctrl-n opens a new window in the same folder in Win 7.)

I have found many “undeletable” files can be removed using a program called Unlocker (http://www.emptyloop.com/unlocker/), provided you can find and click on the file in a folder. Of course, using anti-malware and robust firewall installation to prevent re-infection would be wise, too.

Apparently this offer is only for those (potential) users who have access to an email account with a business/commercial domain name. I tried to get it with my comcast.net account, and it was “sorry Charlie, you don’t qualify”. I presume my gmail, hotmail, and other similar accounts would also be rejected.

Another approach that might work would be to set up a 2-column table, format Col. A (only) as Bold-Underline and wide enough to accept your longest entry,
and Col. B to be as wide as the rest of the page.
Make as many rows as you like, and format the entire table with NO borders inside or out, and you should be good to go.

Another approach is to right-click the filename in Explorer, select Send To, and click on the appropriate CD drive letter. On my computer, this causes the tray to emerge, ready to accept a disk. Close the drive, and the copying process should continue, asking what type of disk you want to make.

I use a MS Natural Ergonomic Desktop 4000 v1.0 from ca. 2008; it DOES have indicator lights for NumLock/CapsLock/ScrollLock/FunctionLock — they are located just below the Back buttons at the bottom of the keyboard. It also appears to have all the buttons and keys of the 7000, including the useful separate * ( ) keys that do not need to have the Shift key pressed simultaneously, and the F1-F12 keys that can be switched to other purposes using the FLock.
My only quibbles are that the “M” key-label wore off prematurely, so I had to relabel the key myself, and the keys are not backlit, for working in the dark. I must say that I can’t agree with krsmav’s complaints, at least about the NED. Key action is not as “clicky” as in the old days, but not mushy either. And the slant of the keys from front to back feels right to me.