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vast
KB5034763 installation failed for me too (also on Win10 22H2).
I recently used ViveTool to revert Windows Search search string format entry to the old (better) method by disabling the Windows ‘feature’ that changed it.
Could this be the problem, Susan Bradley? (If so I could re-enable the ‘feature’ and try again.)
Yes, I just encountered that issue on my Win 10 22H2 laptop – KB5034763 (my error originally listing the wrong KB – sorry) would not install.
I use WUMGR and have never had an issue. It downloaded the update “successfully” and when I restarted, it went through an attempt to install and then a loop saying “Couldn’t complete installation, undoing changes, trying again” – twice and then finally rebooted. The update screen seemed to stall at about 94% and then said it couldn’t install.
It also did a weird thing to WUMGR when I tried to see if the update indeed did install or fail. When I started WUMGR again, the info was blank – no record of any updates being installed – no history, and when I checked again for updates, it then listed ALL of the many I had hidden over the time I’ve used it, plus KB5034763.
I tried it all a second time – same thing. So I rolled back my Macrium backup and now things appear back to normal. WUMGR shows everything and all seems OK.
Since I use WUMGR, I never got any error messages except the ones saying that it couldn’t complete the install and was undoing changes. This update will not install on Win 10 22H2. I have another Win 10 22H2 laptop that I am not going to try to install this on – waiting to see if there is a solution.
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Asus N53SM & N53SN 64-bit laptops (Win7 Pro & Win10 Pro 64-bit multiboots), venerable HP Pavilion t760 32-bit desktop (XP & Win7 Pro multiboot), Oracle VirtualBox VM's: XP & Win7 32-bit, XP Mode, aged Samsung Galaxy S4, Samsung Galaxy Tab A 2019s (8" & 10.1"), Blu-ray burners, digital cameras, ext. HDDs (latest 5TB!), AnyDVD, Easeus ToDo Backup Home, Waterfox, more. Me: Aussie card-carrying Windows geek.
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What’s wrong with keeping Office 2003? You’re used to it, it does what you need, it’s cheap, all you need to ensure is you AV scan files from outside sources before opening them in Office. If you do change, there is no need for a CD as you download the software from Microsoft, install and enter your license. cheers, Paul
Microsoft hasn’t provided security patches for Office 2003 since 2014.
Running any program that accesses the internet (or documents downloaded from the internet) past it’s EOL (End Of Life) date is extremely poor security. Not everyone’s realtime virus checkers will be set to scan Microsoft document files. And, mainly, not all virus variants, or 0 Day viruses, are detected by virus checkers at all.
Buying a newer version of Office also gives one access to new features, and there’s a heap of nice new ones added to Office since the venerable Office 2003. Presuming one isn’t satisfied with what I assume are the comparitively very basic free office suites.
Like some posters here I stay away from Office 365, since I want Office to keep working on my legacy machines and virtual machines without shelling out more money to MS year after year after year. And I get my Office licenses other than directly from Microsoft. They lost me a few years ago when they changed Office licenses from three licenses per key to one, without decreasing the price (i.e. they tripled the price overnight, presumably so they could push their subscription model).
Asus N53SM & N53SN 64-bit laptops (Win7 Pro & Win10 Pro 64-bit multiboots), venerable HP Pavilion t760 32-bit desktop (XP & Win7 Pro multiboot), Oracle VirtualBox VM's: XP & Win7 32-bit, XP Mode, aged Samsung Galaxy S4, Samsung Galaxy Tab A 2019s (8" & 10.1"), Blu-ray burners, digital cameras, ext. HDDs (latest 5TB!), AnyDVD, Easeus ToDo Backup Home, Waterfox, more. Me: Aussie card-carrying Windows geek.
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From what you describe it’s pretty clearly some bug in Windows Search. The massive number of files you have might be stressing the buggy code more than smaller installations do.
I suggest you focus on the files in your 350 jpgs drawer which weren’t successfully indexed (60 of them, you say), and look for any commonality – things like very long filenames, some special character in the filenames, different file permissions and so on. Documenting anything useful you find could increase the chances of Microsoft fixing the problem when you report it to them via Apps->Feedback Hub.
Or if you’re lucky maybe it’ll be fixed anyway in some upcoming Windows 10 update.
Personally I gave up on Windows Search years ago as a reliable indexing tool because mine would stop functioning completely periodically, and sometimes no documented fixes would work. And believe me, I googled very hard for fixes. Probably like yourself, I became quite annoyed with the frequent time consuming reindexing of large numbers of files.
I have used FileLocator Pro instead for the last few years. Unlike the ‘Everything’ program mentioned by another here, it indexes the contents of readable files, not just the filenames. It’s trialware/payware, and there’s definitely a long initial learning curve, but it’s extremely powerful. You can even set up multiple indexes for different purposes if you want. Incremental indexing doesn’t run all the time, you choose when to update each index (I generally do so every few days). The program has excellent manufacturer support.
If you’re as sick of Windows Search as I was (and many other users are), you just might want to try the FileLocator Pro trial.
https://www.mythicsoft.com/filelocatorpro/downloadAsus N53SM & N53SN 64-bit laptops (Win7 Pro & Win10 Pro 64-bit multiboots), venerable HP Pavilion t760 32-bit desktop (XP & Win7 Pro multiboot), Oracle VirtualBox VM's: XP & Win7 32-bit, XP Mode, aged Samsung Galaxy S4, Samsung Galaxy Tab A 2019s (8" & 10.1"), Blu-ray burners, digital cameras, ext. HDDs (latest 5TB!), AnyDVD, Easeus ToDo Backup Home, Waterfox, more. Me: Aussie card-carrying Windows geek.
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Windows’ own Windows Defender (which I think is now called Windows Security) works fine for me.
You can enter exclusions for both specific drawers and specific executables, either proactively or after they are detected.
Regular updates are small; they are definitions updates only, not an increasing amount of useless bloatware and adware like you get with many third party virus checker updates.
It runs a quick scan every now and then which you probably won’t even notice until you receive a notification in the tray after the event (I don’t).
And there’s smaller chance of it s****ing up some part of Windows 10 than using a third party program.
Asus N53SM & N53SN 64-bit laptops (Win7 Pro & Win10 Pro 64-bit multiboots), venerable HP Pavilion t760 32-bit desktop (XP & Win7 Pro multiboot), Oracle VirtualBox VM's: XP & Win7 32-bit, XP Mode, aged Samsung Galaxy S4, Samsung Galaxy Tab A 2019s (8" & 10.1"), Blu-ray burners, digital cameras, ext. HDDs (latest 5TB!), AnyDVD, Easeus ToDo Backup Home, Waterfox, more. Me: Aussie card-carrying Windows geek.
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A Pro upgrade is worth it in my opinion if only for the Group Policy editor (which is a feature for advanced users, I guess).
There’s a third party addon program for Win10 Home called Policy Plus (it’s mentioned in the latest AskWoody Plus newsletter). I haven’t tried it, but I wouldn’t bet money on it containing all settings available in the Win10 Pro Group Policy editor, and always being updated promptly for new settings for each new Win10 release, and being available for the entire lifecycle of Windows 10.
Asus N53SM & N53SN 64-bit laptops (Win7 Pro & Win10 Pro 64-bit multiboots), venerable HP Pavilion t760 32-bit desktop (XP & Win7 Pro multiboot), Oracle VirtualBox VM's: XP & Win7 32-bit, XP Mode, aged Samsung Galaxy S4, Samsung Galaxy Tab A 2019s (8" & 10.1"), Blu-ray burners, digital cameras, ext. HDDs (latest 5TB!), AnyDVD, Easeus ToDo Backup Home, Waterfox, more. Me: Aussie card-carrying Windows geek.
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I feel better after reporting spam such as these to SpamCop. I’m not certain that it does a lot of good, but, to repeat, it makes me feel better. Are there other spam-reporting entities, any that have any teeth?
Yeah Spamcop is very good. Free, and does all the technical sender-domain-etc. ‘tracing’ work for you. All you need to learn is how to copy/paste an email with full headers (not hard). I see no need for learning/using another similar service.
I used to report every spam/scam email, until doing so got me on a spammer’s hitlist, and started receiving hundreds of ‘bounce’ emails from an email domain, with my email address forged as the sender. Spamcop warn about the possibility of people who report spam copping this sort of revenge. They try to remove all recipient-identifying info from reported emails, but sometimes large alphanumeric strings within the email are used, obfuscated enough so that it’s not apparent it identifies the spam recipient.
Spamcop give the use the option of which domains involved (sender, mentioned in the spam etc.) emails to send, which can be selected by ticking (checking) or unchecking. One trick I’ve developed is to surf to the domain of each, if I don’t know it. If that domain has no main page, the chances are that it’s specifically designed for the use of spammers, and sending anything to it would result in either more spam, or no action at all.
I read that Microsoft take spam very, very seriously and spend millions on combating it, since the total cost to their servers is high (and to their reputation too, I’d think). I’ve no doubt that anything in my Junk Mail folder, if I don’t move it to another folder, even when I delete it, is followed up by them in attempts to shut down the spammers involved… and they are sometimes successful at this.
No doubt Yahoo, Google etc. (all very large email providers) do the same. So now I only report spam if it’s particularly obnoxious. Only the worst of scam emails really… scammers tend to be small operations so have less chance of tracing a spam report to me and attempting to exact revenge.
If I had my time over I’d pick a much more unguessable email address, i.e. one which wouldn’t be found by the random combination of personal names, titles and common words (which is how spammers add many email addresses to their lists).
For most website signups I use a (free) Spamgourmet email address. There’s a learning curve but it’s worth it. Nine out of ten websites will accept a Spamgourmet email address, and there are multiple domains etc. one can specify for the same destination email account. My Spamgourmet email stats until today: 13,350 forwarded, 83,596 ‘eaten’. Nice!!!Asus N53SM & N53SN 64-bit laptops (Win7 Pro & Win10 Pro 64-bit multiboots), venerable HP Pavilion t760 32-bit desktop (XP & Win7 Pro multiboot), Oracle VirtualBox VM's: XP & Win7 32-bit, XP Mode, aged Samsung Galaxy S4, Samsung Galaxy Tab A 2019s (8" & 10.1"), Blu-ray burners, digital cameras, ext. HDDs (latest 5TB!), AnyDVD, Easeus ToDo Backup Home, Waterfox, more. Me: Aussie card-carrying Windows geek.
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Paul T said it: Deleting old, dud registry entries will in almost all cases, even when Windows has been installed for years and had many programs installed and uninstalled, do nothing. We’re talking tiny, tiny fractions of a second for any registry read/write. Given those speeds, Windows (or other programs accessing the registry, both Microsoft and third party), are certainly not reading the registry serially. All large databases afaik, except those designed by programmers with almost no knowledge of file structure and little common-sense, use indexed-sequential files. That means that binary chops are used initially to find an entry… the same way you used to open a phone book in the middle, then ‘cut’ to halfway through the first or second half, as applicable, and so on…. a helluva lot faster than looking for e.g. Mr Smith by flicking through all pages one by one from the beginning of the book!
And in almost all cases, the old, dud registry entries aren’t accessed at all – they used to be accessed by the program that created them, but the program has since been uninstalled, with an improperly tested or lazily coded uninstaller that left remnants.
In occasional cases, which many users will never encounter, a remnant has a bad effect on the system, in a variety of possible ways. One I’ve seen is where files of specific types (say, .doc, .rtf or .mp3, for example’s sake) are opened by more than one program. A poorly written uninstaller might bollix the file associations, making the file unopenable by your other program(s) that you want opening them.
A registry cleaner just might, and in some cases, does fix this and other problems… but it can also make things worse, adding one problem on top of another. This is because no registry cleaner is aware of the almost infinite number of possible way keys and values can be written to the registry, e.g. unexpected concatenation types, extremely lengthy strings. So, entries that were actually OK and necessary are ‘cleaned’ by the registry cleaner. Oops! CCleaner got a few items like this wrong last time I ran it, so I just added those registry items to the ignore list. The better registry cleaners, like CCleaner, always give you the delete/keep option for each entry listed. Never run any sort of ‘clean everything’ or ‘fix everything’ option (CCleaner has at least one).
I’m a card-carrying Windows geek, and in fact coined the saying, “Real Windows geeks never reimage… they edit registries.” So, I do run CCleaner every now and then, with confidence. I only use it, not one of the many dodgy registry cleaners that scam users by massively exaggerating the number of items to be cleaned (“1,546 bad registry items! YOUR SYSTEM IS SLOW!), or in the worst cases, installing malware. (Hint for noobs: If you saw a program touted in a forwarded email or via an ad on a webpage, never download it!!!)
Yeah CCleaner free version can be an increasing, royal pain with all the ‘Upgrade!’ popups and ads for other software. There are ‘ways’ to decrease the annoyance (not by cracks which contain who knows what), but they require some time overhead and this isn’t the place to discuss them. I eventually bit the bullet and bought CCleaner recently after years of free version use, it was a package deal with other programs and IMO not excessively expensive, and I was swayed by an AskWoody newsletter item that mentioned many a good software vendor has gone bust, so it’s good to subscribe to support them so updates are ensured. Albeit rather reluctantly in my case since like many I don’t appreciate the software manufacturer’s ‘social engineering’.
You can update CCleaner’s Custom Clean applications list using SingularLabs’ CCEnhancer. CCleaner’s life can be extended this way alone for years, for no cost, making CCleaner ‘keep up’ with changes in new program versions, and with popular programs. Without having to worry about what new nags might be in each new CCleaner version (you get some even with the pay version!). CCleaner with CCEnhancer assist even handles cleaning dozens of less popular programs, e.g. Firefox variants like Waterfox. (Waterfox btw is a must browser IMO if you want to always be able to run old webpages (and archived webpages) containing critical Flash, Java etc. and use old Firefox extensions, all still available, many of which are far more powerful than the current ones since Mozilla dumbed down Firefox.)
I never delete everything in the CCleaner list, and rarely immediately. For almost all registry items listed, I work out what program installed that item, sometimes by using Nirsoft’s free RegScanner and Agent Ransack to find out what other registry items / folders / files were created at the same time, sometimes using Nirsoft’s UserAssistView to work out what program was run about installation time. And using other tools. (Bless Nirsoft!!)
I ran CCleaner yesterday, did the above, and deleted maybe 30 of 200 items. The rest of the items, I’m guesstimating, look like they will never cause any trouble. Some I will never delete, e.g. any item created by Windows itself. For instance, what if it’s a feature that I might want to reinstall using Windows’ Programs and Features one day, but, say, reinstalling the feature doesn’t install the registry items because they exist after a default Windows 10 installation, so why bother (a programmer of the feature installer might have thought… some sadly do think/work as badly as that, and not just at Microsoft, blame slave driving bosses in some cases).
So yeah, for noobs (sorry, non-deep-geeks), the common wisdom to not clean the registry at all is good advice. And if you must, check each item and become very familiar with the categories (e.g. ‘Unused File Types’ can generally be deleted with impunity). And if you do all but the most careful clean (whereby hopefully you’ll learn a few things about the registry), expect something to maybe break in a way a second registry clean won’t fix. So do a full partition backup no more than a few hours before registry cleaning. (You don’t know if your backup is of the full partition variety or not? You’ve never tested it actually worked, so that you can access your files from it? Go learn/test, and don’t registry clean for maybe a year or five!) Setting a System Restore Point is also vital too, be glad you didn’t hear the language when I forgot to do that this week and spent like 5 hours manually registry editing to fix the mess I’d made (which was actually from too enthusiastic manual registry editing/cleaning in this case).
If a registry clean happens to screw up your system badly, and you don’t have a geek friend you can butter up/pay/bribe to fix it, maybe you’ll have to pay a pro to fix it… maybe you should have paid them first… it’s not for me to judge, and I take no responsibility for any of the suggestions here causing problems… most registry cleaning/editing is not for the noob or faint of heart.
I tend to get into far more trouble with lengthy manual registry editing than CCleaner, and do hose some part of my system about one in every thirty multi-hour cleaning sessions, but hey I’m a perfectionist and as I said almost always do the proper backups first so it’s recoverable… and I learn from my mistakes. I also so pre-clean registry backups with Tweaking.com’s Registry Backup, which like all the programs I mention here is free (some have pay/free versions). I also use the free version of Registrar Registry Manager extensively for registry searches and editing (in no way is it for the novice… and geeks beware, everything before the current version hoses multivalues, I don’t know about the current version, not prepared to use a ‘.0 version of anything… always use Regedit for multivalues and even then watch out for the PendingFileRenameOperations value!!! [Go Google to find out why or ask me]).
OK I’ve just about written a flamin’ article here, so I won’t talk about registry compacting freeware, of which I know two programs by reputable manufacturers. I haven’t been game to try a registry compacter since XP days, though I ran one on Win10 and it told me how much I could compress the registry if I ran it… like a mere 5% even though I’ve done plenty of program installations, uninstallations, and upgrades over the years… so I haven’t bothered. Registry compacters, if they’re properly coded and run according to instructions, don’t delete any registry keys, they compact by other methods I won’t go into here. If anyone wants to know more about them, let me know here, and preferably also send me a heads-up message, and I’ll post details here, maybe as a new thread.
Asus N53SM & N53SN 64-bit laptops (Win7 Pro & Win10 Pro 64-bit multiboots), venerable HP Pavilion t760 32-bit desktop (XP & Win7 Pro multiboot), Oracle VirtualBox VM's: XP & Win7 32-bit, XP Mode, aged Samsung Galaxy S4, Samsung Galaxy Tab A 2019s (8" & 10.1"), Blu-ray burners, digital cameras, ext. HDDs (latest 5TB!), AnyDVD, Easeus ToDo Backup Home, Waterfox, more. Me: Aussie card-carrying Windows geek.
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This reply was modified 5 years ago by
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According to a post on answers.microsoft.com which helped some users with your problem, one workaround is to change the “Touch Keyboard and Handwriting Panel Service” to run as Automatic.
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You can install Windows 10 to a second partition on your hard drive, rather than s***ing with your working Windows 7 installation. I did, and like many others have been running Windows 7 / Windows 10 multiboot for years. Installing Windows 10 to the new partition will set up a multiboot menu for you (if all goes well!). If you don’t know how to partition a hard disk, it’s time to learn now.
Before you start, download installer .iso files from Microsoft of both Windows 7 and Windows 10, burn boot disks from them, and check they work (i.e. the created media boots on your computer), in case installing Windows 10 on your computer makes it unbootable and you need to do a boot repair. And do a full partition backup to an external hard drive. If you don’t know how to do any of this, now is time to learn.
For Windows 10 updates, I followed the advice published on this website, changing settings so that updates are always deferred for 183 days for Feature Updates, and 21 days for Quality Updates. And as recommended here, I never click the ‘Check for updates’ button in Windows. Instead, I periodically use the free Belarc Advisor to show me the list of available updates – it scans the computer in a few minutes, then displays links to the pertinent Microsoft articles, which contain links to download the patches (for each you need to choose the right numbered version of Window 10, 1909, for example, and whether 32 or 64 bit). I follow our beloved Patch Lady’s advice on when to install updates (mostly at the end of the month, giving other bunnies time to unofficially beta test them). Good luck! And do have your full backup done before the Win10 upgrade, and unless you’re very good at fixing Windows technical problems yourself with the aid of a search engine, have contact details of a good computer tech or friendly neighborhood geek at the ready in case it turns out you need them. You might, getting multibooting working the first time is sometimes easy but at worst can be a royal pain.
Asus N53SM & N53SN 64-bit laptops (Win7 Pro & Win10 Pro 64-bit multiboots), venerable HP Pavilion t760 32-bit desktop (XP & Win7 Pro multiboot), Oracle VirtualBox VM's: XP & Win7 32-bit, XP Mode, aged Samsung Galaxy S4, Samsung Galaxy Tab A 2019s (8" & 10.1"), Blu-ray burners, digital cameras, ext. HDDs (latest 5TB!), AnyDVD, Easeus ToDo Backup Home, Waterfox, more. Me: Aussie card-carrying Windows geek.
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Well, this is because MS Office applications no longer depend on the OneDrive application to access OneDrive / SharePoint content. There’s an option hidden somewhere with the privacy settings where you can tell Office applications to not use “helpful network functions”. With that you can supposedly block the direct OneDrive / SharePoint access. And last time I used it, it got reset to allow a couple of Click-to-Run updates later when the options dialog was rearranged…
File->[scroll down]->Options->Trust Center->Privacy Options->Privacy Settings->[scroll down]->untick ‘Enable connected experiences‘
Doing this turns off some features of Office as described on the last settings window above, probably features you don’t use anyway.
The above is in Office 2016. Office 365 settings will be the same.
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In Win 10 Pro, and, I think in Win 7 Pro before that, I could drag-and-drop tray icons into whatever order it pleased me. Have I misunderstood your question?
User areader asked the question. But my comment above now stands partially corrected by you, thanks ScotchJohn.Yes, you can drag the tray icons to new locations in the tray. No, we don’t want to have to manually drag icons to reorder them after every boot or every program which displays a tray icon is started, especially if there’s some third party program which can remember our preferred sequence and be run on boot to automatically reorder tray icons the way we want.
For ‘general’ (non-tray non-pinned) taskbar icons, installing 7+ Taskbar Tweaker and having it run as a startup program will allow dragging and reordering them, and more! [see my post above for more]. I’ve attached a pic of the settings I use for 7+ Taskbar Tweaker.
Asus N53SM & N53SN 64-bit laptops (Win7 Pro & Win10 Pro 64-bit multiboots), venerable HP Pavilion t760 32-bit desktop (XP & Win7 Pro multiboot), Oracle VirtualBox VM's: XP & Win7 32-bit, XP Mode, aged Samsung Galaxy S4, Samsung Galaxy Tab A 2019s (8" & 10.1"), Blu-ray burners, digital cameras, ext. HDDs (latest 5TB!), AnyDVD, Easeus ToDo Backup Home, Waterfox, more. Me: Aussie card-carrying Windows geek.
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