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I need to add that I followed the instructions in the “How to move the Desktop folder out of OneDrive on Windows 10 & 11” link provided in the other thread, but this has not fixed the problem.

I answered yes to the question about relocating all files to the new location, but notwithstanding this no files have been copied, only a shortcut to the Pictures (one drive) folder in the Pictures (local) folder, and ditto for Desktop and Documents. I had turned off syncing beforehand.

Left on my own I’d probably drag every file from the One Drive equivalent into the local folder and then  delete the shortcuts, but I’m worried that things might only get worse the more I try to undo it.

cheers
T

 

There’s nobody here who could have run something while I was away; I work at home and my wife was out.

I have to modify my statement that there were no updates in the last week – now that everything is functioning without this proxy login blocking most of the features, when I sort the Apps & Features list by date I can see that sometime yesterday (can’t see a timestamp, only the date) the following items were updated:

Copilot version 1.0.4.0
Microsoft 365 (Office) version 18.2408.1212.0
Windows Package Manager Source (winget) V2 version 2024.8.30.625.29

According to the Windows Update history, the last update was installed on Aug 15. The above updates seem to have happened without appearing in the history.

cheers
T

 

Thanks, that’s exactly what I wanted to know.

Interesting read. I missed that discussion (been on holiday).

But I’m just trying to find out if and why I need multiple versions of the visual C++ packages, the update tool is a side issue.

I suppose it’s a software update assistant not a manager, if we’re being pedantic about it.

UpdateHub, in this case. (I also use Ninite occasionally.)

 

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Alex5723

Hmm.

I’ve had this laptop for at least a couple of years now, and I’ve never viewed the encryption options before. But I don’t see your options, this is what I see instead:

If I click on the device encryption toggle I get presented with this:

which implies that the disk is encrypted already??

This is hardly clear. The “sign in” line implies the device hasn’t been encrypted yet, the blue warning implies that it has.

Apologies to Susan, her attempt to head off anxiety has – in my case – served to create it.

cheers
T

I have a fraught relationship with Microsoft accounts ever since I made the foolish decision to use one microsoft ID for business and one for personal when I was dual booting a single laptop.

So when you mentioned possible issues with Bitlocker if you can’t access your microsoft account I followed your directions and arrived at Control Panel > System and Security > Bitlocker Drive Encryption.
This screen tells me not that Bitlocker is on or off, but that the C drive is in a state described as “Bitlocker waiting for activation”. There’s a link to turn it on, but I can’t see any way to say “no thanks”. I’m not clicking on anything in this screen until I know what it will do!

I presume I’m safe but I’d like to be sure.

The machine is a Dell XPS15/7590 running Windows 11 Pro 22H2 (22621.2861).

cheers
T

Show accent color on start and taskbar is disabled (I have Light mode set). But that was the clue I needed, and now I feel really dumb

I can see that this is the taskbar displaying a mostly transparent version of colors derived from the desktop background, and it turned green for the photo I had as the background last night. (My backgrounds are on an hourly cycle.)

I’ve flicked through a number of backgrounds in the last few minutes and most of them show a nearly grey taskbar but a few produce pronounced colors. I’ve also noticed that this effect is only displayed on the primary monitor; while the secondary monitor displays a taskbar if I mouse to the edge of the display, that taskbar is always flat grey.

cheers

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b

Update: I had already ordered a new PSU from the supplier accompanied with a dialogue about exploring the warranty option. They kinda brushed that aside, but the new PSU (the same HX850 but with a 10 year warranty now) arrived today and when I swapped it for the old PSU (I had to do a bit more cabling work than expected because the connectors have changed slightly) everything worked perfectly. I’m not going to cry over $200 when I was half-expecting a considerably bigger bill and days more inconvenience.

All’s well that ends well, I guess.

Thanks everyone for your assistance.

cheers
T

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Lars220

No odor, at least not that I noticed. There has been a little more noise at times since the beginning of the year, and there are quite a lot of tiny white flakes collected around the base of the PSU housing (see attached).

 

Hi

The MB is a ROG STRIX Z390-F and the CPU is i9-9900K. GPU is GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER XC. The C drive is a 512GB SSD and there are three other HDD (although one is just the C drive from this machine’s previous incarnation).

If that helps

cheers
T

When I say the keyboard lit up, I mean that the backlighting of the keys (RGB) is on. The keys themselves do not seem to be doing anything – pressing caps lock does not illuminate the caps indicator for example. But if I plug the controller into the USB slot on the keyboard it still buzzes when I turn the PSU on.

Oh, with the PSU switched on the front power switch on the case is not illuminated, but if I press that switch the memory LEDs light up and the case power switch comes on. Nothing else though.

I can get hold of a replacement PSU relatively easily; what’s the likelihood that my other components are fried, d’you think? (Not asking for any guarantees, just wondering where I should set my expectations and how depressed I should be.)

cheers
T

Thanks, this test green-zones the CPU but says TPM  is not enabled on the motherboard.

My motherboard is a ROG STRIX Z390-F, and it looks like there’s a BIOS setting to enable TPM (although I can also see quite a few users reporting boot errors after enabling it, so I’m not going to change it right now).

But I’m glad to see my hardware isn’t obsolete already.

Well I don’t know precisely where I stand on this, I’m not mad keen to upgrade to Win 11 right now but I’d like to think I’d be able to.

So I have a desktop which I assembled myself less than 2 years ago, it has an i9-9900K CPU which is on the official Win 11 support list, and yet when I run the PC Health check it specifically identifies the CPU as being the reason my machine cannot run Windows 11. What gives, Microsoft?

cheers
T

Thanks.

I have already used the media creation tool to get Win 10 21H1 on a USB. I think if it doesn’t shutdown and restart nicely following your log out suggestion, then doing the repair install straight away is probably the best option, although if I can get into any kind of hardware diagnostics on the laptop I will run those first.

cheers
T