Upgrading From 8.1, Keeping License Intact

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Hello all, thanks for being here.

I’m going to be helping someone soon upgrade both the hardware and the OS in her Windows 8.1 computer. I’d like to verify my planned steps and see if anyone would like to offer suggestions for improvement.

Hardware:

1. Max RAM her M/B will support
2. 1TB Samsung EVO SSD

OS:

1. Windows 8.1 to Windows 10

Her current OS is a downgrade. After I bumped her up to the free Windows 10 upgrade (remember that one, oh so long ago?), she asked me to revert to Windows 8.1. At the time she wanted to keep what she was familiar with.

Her hardware configuration hasn’t changed since then.

So here’s my plan:

1. Download a new ISO from (some page at) microsoft.com
2. Run an in-place upgrade from 8.1 to 10
3. Verify successful activation
4. Install the SSD
5. Run a clean OS install of 10
6. Verify successful activation
7. Install the RAM
8. Verify successful activation
9. Install her applications, etc.

This seems like a reasonable approach, but if you spot something I’m missing or that I should look out for, please chime in.

Thanks,
Jeff Bowman
Fairbanks, Alaska

 

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Hey Jeff,

I don’t understand why the multiple steps.  Why not install the ram and SSD then boot to a USB stick installation of Windows?  If the machine is an OEM then isn’t the product key for activation baked into the bios/machine?  Otherwise, it’s on the OEM sticker or you have it if you purchased Windows.  Once done, install the drivers and then the Apps.

If your trying to keep her personal data, then copy that over to some USB sticks. Or if you’ve got a second drive in the machine just move them over there.

Mike

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InteXX

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I don’t understand why the multiple steps

I’m being extra careful at every step to preserve the activation/digital license that she got when she temporarily upgraded to Win10 a few years back. It’s my understanding that activation is tied to hardware IDs, so I want to take the time to update Microsoft’s activation servers with the new ID of each hardware piece.

isn’t the product key for activation baked into the bios

I’m afraid not on this one.

Otherwise, it’s on the OEM sticker

I think that’s long gone, but I’ll double-check to be sure next time I’m over there.

If your [sic] trying to keep her personal data, then copy that over to some USB sticks

Sure, that part’s easy. I’m focusing on saving her Win10 license/activation with all of this.

 

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I agree with Mike. Install the RAM and SSD and clean install W10.
Then you have a full backup without doing anything – the old disk.

cheers, Paul

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InteXX

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Install the RAM and SSD and clean install W10

Sure, I get it. I do that all the time—when I have a key in hand (which I don’t on this one).

My fear is that Microsoft’s activation servers will kick it out if I make too many hardware changes all at once.

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Her PC has already had Windows 10 on it so a digital license will have been stored on MS’ activation servers when it was previously upgraded.

Neither a change of RAM or SSD will affect its digital footprint so the activation will be automatic.

I agree with previous comments, just install the RAM and new SSD then clean install (offline) from a bootable USB stick created using Microsoft’s Media Creation Tool.

Hope this helps…

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InteXX

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Her PC has already had Windows 10 on it so a digital license will have been stored on MS’ activation servers when it was previously upgraded.

Yes, I’m counting on that.

the activation will be automatic

That’s what I’m hoping for!

Neither a change of RAM or SSD will affect its digital footprint

Now that’s surprising. I’ve been under the impression that RAM, HDD (SSD in this case) and CPU combine to make up a digital signature for Windows activation. Assuming that’s true, swapping out two of the three would surely constitute a new sig.

just install the RAM and new SSD then clean install

To your knowledge, if activation does indeed detect that as a new sig, will that ruin her existing 8.1 activation as well? It feels a bit risky to me…

(offline)

Yes, good tip. Also, thanks for the link.

 

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I found this article:

https://www.pcsteps.com/4484-how-windows-activation-works/

According to the information there, new RAM and new SSD is not enough of a change to trigger a hardware sig reactivation. Granted it’s an older entry, but its claims are backed up by a Wikipedia entry:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microsoft_Product_Activation#During_activation

So it appears my fears have been unfounded. These discoveries, along with the good advice of those participating in this thread (thank you!) have convinced me that I can safely do everything in one shot.

 

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InteXX wrote:

Now that’s surprising. I’ve been under the impression that RAM, HDD (SSD in this case) and CPU combine to make up a digital signature for Windows activation.

Nope. Neither RAM nor OS drive changes will affect the stored digital footprint, only CPU and/or mainboard (plus, I suspect, any onboard network adapters) … which can be sorted out with a phone call to MS.

Hope this helps…

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InteXX

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Actually, I just swapped out my MoBo and CPU (together) last month. All went well, and no necessity to verify by phone – it just worked.

Zig

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Rick Corbett wrote:

InteXX wrote:

Now that’s surprising. I’ve been under the impression that RAM, HDD (SSD in this case) and CPU combine to make up a digital signature for Windows activation.

Nope. Neither RAM nor OS drive changes will affect the stored digital footprint, only CPU and/or mainboard (plus, I suspect, any onboard network adapters) … which can be sorted out with a phone call to MS.

Hope this helps…

Perfect, thank you.

As an aside, may I ask how you managed to retain the author’s name while quoting only a section of the post?

Is there a syntax guide for this board?

 

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Highlight the required text. Click Quote. Simples  🙂

cheers, Paul

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Zig wrote:

Actually, I just swapped out my MoBo and CPU (together) last month. All went well, and no necessity to verify by phone – it just worked.

I’m pleased for you but a little surprised. Was it the same make/model mobo or different brand completely? OEM or retail Windows? Do you use a local account or MSA?

I seem to remember Ed Bott discussing this very scenario some time ago but cannot find the article now. All I could find was this Microsoft article describing how to use a Microsoft Account to relink the digital license using an Activation Troubleshooter.

In Windows 10 (version 1607 or later), it is essential that you link your Microsoft account with the Windows 10 digital license on your device. Linking your Microsoft account with your digital license allows you to reactivate Windows using the Activation troubleshooter whenever you make a significant hardware change.

As I never use an MSA I had assumed I would have to phone if I ran into a re-activation issue.

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I’m pleased for you but a little surprised. Was it the same make/model mobo or different brand completely? OEM or retail Windows? Do you use a local account or MSA?

Different MoBo (same mfr.), retail Win 10 (originally upgraded from Win 8.1). I BELIEVE (IIRC) I used my M$ account.

Also IIRC, there was a policy in the past that would not trigger a license check if the current components were unchanged for 6 months before changing them.

Zig

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Paul T wrote:

Simples

Perfect. Thank you 🙂

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