Updating Win10 Pro 32 bit 1607 to Win10 Pro 32bit 1909

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I have a family member with a i7 HP DeskPro running Win10-64 Pro v1607 which needs upgrading to Win10-64 Pro 1909.
Looking for some guidance on the exact procedure as I do not want to bork the task and have weeks of work restoring apps and thousands of techncal drawings / plans, photographic stuff and documents. I’ve experienced that once before with my own system and it took me 8 days to get it all back into shape.
I have the last rendition of Win10 1909 from March 2020 as an ISO file on DVD and
created a bootable clone backup of the full system on a USB HDD.

Would some kind soul like to assist by giving me a blow by blow walk through of the procedure for upgrading without losing any data files or apps??

I thank you in advance of assistance.

Gordon (UK)

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Gordon,

First we need to establish if the system is 32-bit (as noted in the topic title) or 64-bit (as described in the note body.

 

Zig

 

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Gordski, Microfix

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Since you already have the system backed up, mount the ISO and run setup.exe from the root of mounted ISO.

--Joe

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Gordski

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Well spotted Zig, that was a Freudian numeric typo, the system is actually Windows 10-Pro 64bit.

Thanks, Joe.
Easy said, but will your recommended action enable the upgrade to 1909 to succeed without wiping the aplications and data files?? Is the option to keep apps and data files presented during the setup process when upgrading/installing from an ISO DVD?

Apologies for seeming a dimwit on this issue but I am really paranoid about losing stuff.

Anyone . . .  feel free to chip-in.

Thank you.

Gordon. (UK)

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Gordski

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Before you start you should have BOTH a verified full disk IMAGE (not clone, unless you have a tested second drive you can switch out with the same 1607 OS) and a data (file) backup of your data.

If you run setup.exe from within the running 1607, you will be given the choice to save apps and data, to save data only, or to save nothing. The first is the choice you should make.

Also, if you are connected to the Internet, the installation will offer to install updates during the installation. If you do this, you will end up with the current Build of v2004 (no matter what ISO you use). Unless you want that, you should perform the upgrade offline (disconnected from the Internet) and say “NO” when it asks you if you want it to search for updates.

Once the upgrade is finished, you should review ALL the settings in the Settings App (particularly Windows Update) and elsewhere to your level of tolerance BEFORE you go online.

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Gordski, Coldheart9020, Paul T

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And after the upgrade, ensure that System Restore in turned ON for your C:\ drive.

Zig

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Gordski

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>> Da Boss

Thank you for the invaluable detailed install process schedule. In particular the vital part as regards the disconnect from the internet to eliminate the liklihood of Microsoft slipping Win10-2004 in under my radar which could have turned a good job into a disaster.

The clone / system image is a bootable copy of the Win10-1607 istallation as it stands at the moment. And includes OS (Win10 1607), apps and all data files and which I have tested out by changing the HDD boot order in the BIOS and it boots up OK and works just as good (or bad) as the primary system drive (Win10 1607).

I did take note and make the change to Windows Update GP and the two Advanced Options changes  which you recommended some weeks back and will certainly check and amend if needed when Win10-1909 fires-up.

Thank you.
Gordon (UK)

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Zig . . .
Sure thing will do.

Thank you.

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I did something very similar a few months ago, went to v 1903 Pro from a version from 2016, not sure which one at this point on an Acer laptop.  The laptop was made in 2015 and sat unused until this year.

I made an ISO of v 1903 and offline, installed it.  All was fine until I went online to let Windows Update find the latest updates.  Yeah, two hours later, Windows Update installed, I suppose with Acer’s help a number of updates from 2015 and 2016.  Things were not going well!  A few minutes later, there was a notification for more old updates.  This recurred over and over until I finally reformatted the drive and reinstalled 1903 offline.  This time the updates installed were recent, no ancient ones.  The laptop works fine today.

Seems when you’re so far out of date, it’s often better to start over with the latest version of Windows.  Save externally everything you can’t afford to lose beforehand. With Pro (all our devices have Pro) after installing an OS offline, I typically spend a few hours setting gpedit, disabling services I don’t want, go through everything in Settings, then disable updates.  Only then do I go online to the microsoft update catalog to pick the updates to install, usually last month’s, then turn updates back on.

As mentioned above, you’ll likely be updated to v2004 at some point unless you create a gpedit entry or registry change  to stay on v1909. Here’s how (do this before updates are turned back on):

https://www.ghacks.net/2020/06/27/you-can-now-set-the-target-windows-10-release-in-professional-versions/

Install your OS OFFLINE and be sure to watch for the setup screen where you can bypass a MS account.  You don’t need one.  Frustrated, I once entered a nonsense user name and pwd instantly forgotten only to find out I was locked out of my device without them.  Format drive and on to OS install attempt #2…bah!

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If the huge leap to feature update 1909 fails, my fix preparing for the possibility of upgrading to 1909 was retrieving the sixty four bit “Win 10_1809Oct_v2” DVD image* using HeiDoc’s Microsoft Windows and Office ISO Download Tool. The correct image is listed under the Windows 10 October 2018 Update – March 2019 heading.

Upgrading was almost like starting from scratch after having to readjust all of the settings and services. My files were intact.

*The version and build number of the install.wim file is 10.0.17763.379 (released March 12, 2019).

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