Symptoms of laptop battery failure

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Laptop screen went very dark, almost black, audio still functional.  Plugged in AC charger, seemed to show full charge too soon.  Extremely faint images on screen, not enough to be actually visible.  Does this sound like a failed battery?  Laptop is Acer Aspire E series.

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Sounds more like failed video to me – I had a laptop screen on an older Dell fail in that same manner.

Do you have an external monitor you could connect to it? If so, you should be able to see if the screen is the issue, or if you have a different problem.

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Slowpoke47

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Slowpoke47 wrote:

Laptop screen went very dark, almost black, audio still functional. Plugged in AC charger, seemed to show full charge too soon. Extremely faint images on screen, not enough to be actually visible.

When you plugged it in, did the picture come back to full brightness?

It’s possible the dim screen is a response to a perceived very low battery level, but it should come right back up if you plug it in.  I suppose it is possible that the battery could be internally shorted and causing a voltage drop internally, causing the system to perceive a low battery even when it’s on AC, but I don’t really know if that’s reasonable.

My Acer Swift has a small hole in the bottom where one may insert a tiny screwdriver (eyeglasses size) or a paper clip and disconnect the battery while the internal button is pressed.  Perhaps yours has something like that too… with the AC power connected and the battery disconnected, it should work like a desktop PC (working normally with AC connected, instantly turning off if you unplug it).

Have you tried connecting an external monitor and seeing whether that works?

Dell XPS 13/9310, i5-1135G7/16GB, KDE Neon 6.2
XPG Xenia 15, i7-9750H/32GB & GTX1660ti, Kubuntu 24.04
Acer Swift Go 14, i5-1335U/16GB, Kubuntu 24.04 (and Win 11)

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Slowpoke47

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I have some experience with electronics servicing, but none with a laptop battery.  Did some testing with a multimeter- charger output is correct at 19 volts.  Battery label specs 10.8v, has 8 contacts, but could not get a reading above 2.0 to 2.4v across any two contacts.  Most were only a few mV, same as ambient voltage, i.e. no probes connected.

This machine is about 4 1/2 years old.  Is that in the range of expected battery life?

The only monitor we have is the one on the desktop.  There are two cables plugged into it and several other ports that are not in use.  Seems like there are multiple ways to go wrong there.

The only opening anywhere on the case other than ports and recessed assembly screws is the latch that releases the battery.

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This machine is about 4 1/2 years old. Is that in the range of expected battery life?

Yes, it is a good long time for laptop battery going through a daily usage cycle.

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Update- just tested it using charger without battery installed.  Same results- very faint images onscreen.  If the screen has failed, is this machine a throwaway?

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If it is just the screen, you can use an external monitor on a laptop, but then it is no longer very mobile. If it is the video chip, that is another matter.

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Slowpoke47

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*If* the screen has failed (and not the video subsystem on the motherboard, etc.), you can get a replacement for under $50. You’d have to do the work to replace it or pay someone to do it; I’m guessing that if you had to do the latter, it wouldn’t be worth the cost.

Replacing a laptop screen is considerably more difficult that connecting an external monitor for testing purposes.

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Slowpoke47

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As mentioned, the only monitor available is the one on the desktop.  At first inspection, connecting it to the laptop is not intuitive.  I’m guessing that a usb cable would be suitable- easy enough on the laptop end, but with two cables plugged into the desktop monitor, along with several unused ports, not so obvious.

Is it typical for one to be a power supply and the other one data?  Would the desktop be booted up or shut down?  What is the potential for creating a new problem?

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Monitors have a power connection and a video connection. On older monitors it is usually VGA, but newer may have DVI or HDMI.

If the laptop is older, it will probably have VGA. Newer may have HDMI.

You can test it to see if it’s the screen or the video card. Turn off the desktop and the monitor. You only need to unplug the video cable (leave the power connected unless you have to move the monitor) and plug it into the laptop (the connetions need to match, of course). Turn on the monitor then turn on the laptop.

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Slowpoke47

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PKCano wrote:

Monitors have a power connection and a video connection. On older monitors it is usually VGA, but newer may have DVI or HDMI.

The desktop is a Dell Inspiron, new in 2009.  The laptop is an Acer Aspire, new in 2015.  If there is an incompatibility, is any harm done in connecting them?

The laptop’s screen is 17.3″ and a replacement is minimum $75.  When new the machine was about $450.  I would feel comfortable diving into the internals- more in line with my experience than my user history might indicate!

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[PKCano]

There is no harm done as long as the video connections match.
This would be to determine if it’s the screen or the video chip, and only on a temporary basis so you know which one is the problem.

• This reply was modified 5 years, 3 months ago by PKCano.

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Slowpoke47

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Slowpoke47 wrote:

The desktop is a Dell Inspiron, new in 2009.  The laptop is an Acer Aspire, new in 2015.  If there is an incompatibility, is any harm done in connecting them?

Just to clarify: you need to connect your monitor to the laptop – you should not be attempting to connect your laptop to your desktop.

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Slowpoke47

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Thanks for the responses.  Out the door shortly, but will try this test later today.

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On my Dell laptops, there is a 3-way toggle that allows me to select “laptop screen only“, “external monitor only,” or both screens. It is done by holding down the “fn” key at the bottom left of the keyboard and pressing one of the “F” keys at the top of the keyboard that has an additional symbol of two screens or a laprop and a screen (it is not the same “F” key on all my laptops). The “screens” look like squares.

There should be something similar on your Acer laptop. Once you plug in the external monitor, you may have to switch to “Ext monitor only” or “Both” to make it work. Remember to switch back to laptop screen only when you are through.

Ask if you have questions.

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Slowpoke47

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This sounds (looks?) like an inverter failure. On an old XP laptop I had to replace one years ago. The ‘LCD inverter’ (look it up on Google) is a small PC card that is in the lower portion of the laptop lid, close to the screen. It transforms computer voltage to the voltage needed to power the screen backlight. If you can get a Maintenance manual for the computer you will see instructions on how to access and to replace it. You’ll have to buy a replacement card.

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Slowpoke47

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On a 2015 manufactured PC, I would expect the backlighting to be LED-based rather than the CCFL that would use an inverter.  I don’t know if LED backlights have any sort of PCB, though, as all of the laptops I’ve replaced screens on have been older CCFL models.

Dell XPS 13/9310, i5-1135G7/16GB, KDE Neon 6.2
XPG Xenia 15, i7-9750H/32GB & GTX1660ti, Kubuntu 24.04
Acer Swift Go 14, i5-1335U/16GB, Kubuntu 24.04 (and Win 11)

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jabeattyauditor wrote:

Just to clarify: you need to connect your monitor to the laptop – you should not be attempting to connect your laptop to your desktop.

Yes, I did get that.  My post was in error

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I have the same fn and F* keys.  Tried the various combinations in case some glitch there had turned off the laptop monitor, no joy.

Not sure what I was expecting, but on our equipment, the monitor will accept a VGA connector or DVI 24 pin connector, the laptop VGA 15-pin only.  Don’t know if all VGA connectors are the same and didn’t disconnect the connector on the case to check before getting into this post (poor planning).  If the computer end of that VGA cable fits the laptop, I will test it.

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The Fn and F key toggle only work when the monitor is hooked up. You can’t toggle to a monitor that is not there.

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Slowpoke47

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Does anyone know if the voltage readings mentioned above seem correct?  A 19V charger feeding a 10.8V battery which in turn puts out such minimal voltage seems to me unusual.

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Most laptops use AC adapters with DC output of 19 to 20 volts.  I don’t know what the voltage spec should be across any given contacts… but even then a static voltage doesn’t give you the whole picture of a battery’s health.  The voltage under load could drop precipitously even though the static (unloaded) voltage is close to the cell’s rated voltage at full charge.

Regardless, you’ve removed the battery and found that the display is still not working, so they’re separate issues.  When you say “dim” display, do you mean that it’s totally dark and you have to use an ambient light source to see what’s on the screen?  That would mean the backlight is dead, which others have already mentioned below.  I was thinking that it was still emitting light, but not a lot, which could still be a bad backlight (dying rather than dead).

Dell XPS 13/9310, i5-1135G7/16GB, KDE Neon 6.2
XPG Xenia 15, i7-9750H/32GB & GTX1660ti, Kubuntu 24.04
Acer Swift Go 14, i5-1335U/16GB, Kubuntu 24.04 (and Win 11)

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Slowpoke47

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PKCano wrote:

On my Dell laptops, there is a 3-way toggle that allows me to select “laptop screen only“, “external monitor only,” or both screens. It is done by holding down the “fn” key at the bottom left of the keyboard and pressing one of the “F” keys at the top of the keyboard that has an additional symbol of two screens or a laprop and a screen (it is not the same “F” key on all my laptops). The “screens” look like squares.

There should be something similar on your Acer laptop. Once you plug in the external monitor, you may have to switch to “Ext monitor only” or “Both” to make it work. Remember to switch back to laptop screen only when you are through.

Ask if you have questions.

This was pretty straightforward.  Result was that laptop lit up desktop monitor no problem on battery power.  Laptop function all good in this config.

Ascaris wrote:

When you say “dim” display, do you mean that it’s totally dark and you have to use an ambient light source to see what’s on the screen?

Yes, it’s so nearly black that the only reason I can make out anything- i.e. Mint logo- is that I know what I’m looking for.

Does this indicate a replacement screen is the answer, or is there more diagnosis needed?

 

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The dim screen is likely the inverter also called backlight driver circuit as mentioned above, not a whole screen failure.  Usually this part is replaceable as a small module around the size of a stick of chewing gum, usually in the screen half of the laptop.  You need to look at a service manual PDF for your Acer.  If you find a whole screen at a good price, check the service manual to see if it is easier to replace whole or to do the backlight circuit.

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Slowpoke47

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anonymous wrote:

The dim screen is likely the inverter also called backlight driver circuit as mentioned above, not a whole screen failure.  Usually this part is replaceable as a small module around the size of a stick of chewing gum, usually in the screen half of the laptop.  You need to look at a service manual PDF for your Acer.  If you find a whole screen at a good price, check the service manual to see if it is easier to replace whole or to do the backlight circuit.

As yet I have been unable to find a service manual.  Did find users’ manual and several videos on screen and/or inverter replacement- have not watched them all the way through yet.  As previously mentioned, my repair skills are much better developed than my user skills (eyeroll) so I have no problem tackling it:-)

If this part is typically furnished with a new screen, perhaps it makes sense to go that route.

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I’ve never replaced just the invertor board (not saying you shouldn’t, just that *I* haven’t!), but if you do go that route, a casual search shows the part selling at considerably lower prices than for the entire screen assembly.

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Slowpoke47

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Same results I had as well.  However, my thinking doesn’t consider cost alone as the overriding factor.  For example, today I had to get out a 24′ extension ladder to replace a burnt-out high floodlight bulb in a 2-bulb fixture.  I didn’t even consider not replacing both bulbs.

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jabeattyauditor wrote:

I’ve never replaced just the invertor board (not saying you shouldn’t, just that *I* haven’t!), but if you do go that route, a casual search shows the part selling at considerably lower prices than for the entire screen assembly.

Now that I’ve poked around online, I see that you are on the right track re replacing the inverter- looks like a fairly simple repair.  In this case, rolling the dice on this seems the most logical strategy, and, as you say, the cost is minimal relative to screen replacement.

It is not my practice when repairing anything- machinery, tools, vehicles, home appliances- to throw parts at the problem and hope for the best.  In this case I’m going to do just that, since I can’t test that part directly.  So far haven’t located the part that fits our specific laptop, but have a couple of inquiries out.

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@ Slowpoke47

Slowpoke47 wrote:

So far haven’t located the part that fits our specific laptop, …

I don’t know why others who have posted in this thread have not asked you, but what is your *specific laptop model*?

There’s no way to search for options in terms of parts–a screen only replacement, a whole laptop top replacement (available *used*, on Ebay for half the price of a *new* screen only option.

When my laptop screen went black, exactly as you have described–I could *see* a black ghost of an image on the screen. Hooked it up to a desktop monitor, and verified that it was not a video chip problem. Found and ordered a *used* whole top which included the screen, the housing, and the hinges. Just had to attach the hinges, hook up the com cable and back in business–no fuss, no mess. That was 4-5 years ago, and it’s still functional to this day.

Have you verified that an inverter is used for your laptop model? Have you seen a wiring schematic for your specific model laptop showing that part, and a part number?

There are YouTube videos showing how to repair various makes and models of laptop screens–but without a specific laptop model, it’s not possible to search for a specific match-up to help you out.

Some examples of resources:

https://www.pcworld.com/article/2907078/how-to-replace-a-broken-laptop-screen.html

***************************************************************************

Repair an Acer Laptop:

***************************************************************************

Another Repair Video:

***************************************************************************

Make homemade testing equip for inverter and CF bulb testing.

Poor quality video–much is out of view, but shows what needs to be done:

Make Homemade Test Equipment:

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Just Lurking wrote:

what is your *specific laptop model*?

For the purposes of this forum, is it necessary to know more than “Acer Aspire E series” from 2015?

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Slowpoke47

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Sorry I got to this party late. Here’s a YouTube troubleshooting video that I myself found helpful. I think it covers your particular problem.

How to fix or troubleshoot a blank or black screen not powering up issues laptop
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chaoqoebcTo

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Slowpoke47

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Thanks for your interest.  In this case, troubleshooting, using similar tactics to those in the video, has already narrowed the problem down to the LCD inverter.  As mentioned above, there is a faint image on the screen, and the laptop lit up a remote screen on battery power, which eliminates several possible diagnoses.

There is no practical way for a home user to test the inverter.  While I am well acquainted with using a multimeter, I have found no specs with which to compare any readings I may find.  While a bad screen can’t be completely ruled out, I’m going with the percentages with a replacement inverter, if I can find one.

As yet, no hits using the serial and model #s, so my next move is to look for a part number on the inverter.  That’s on today’s agenda.  As you may know, when trying to fix almost anything, having a part number is the gold standard.  Acer does not offer parts or lists of part numbers and, so far, nothing else has turned up.  But in the listings I have seen, the same number inverter fits many different laptops.

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[Slowpoke47]

Update- Lid trim removed- inverter not visible. Looks like further disassembly required.

Just had a response to one of my inquiries yesterday, asking for part # of original.  Diving into that later today.

• This reply was modified 5 years, 3 months ago by Slowpoke47.
• This reply was modified 5 years, 3 months ago by Slowpoke47.
• This reply was modified 5 years, 3 months ago by Bluetrix.

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@ Kirsty

Kirsty wrote:

For the purposes of this forum, is it necessary to know more than “Acer Aspire E series” from 2015?

If the intention is to find and replace specific parts, then I would have to answer *Yes*!

The *year* of 2015 is when the laptop was purchased–it does not clearly specify when the laptop was manufactured.

Even your description leaves out a *critical* specification–the display size! However, @ Slowpoke47 does report that information later on in the thread as being 17.3 inches.

But, almost all manufacturers make the disclaimer *that their products are subject to changes without notice*–so a *general description* does not narrow down the item to specifics that could be involved in replacing specific parts.

And, because of the size constraints that are on laptops, one can not rely on the *hope* that a part used on one specific model, will in fact fit in a second model of a given *line of laptops*–again, a 15 inch display is quite different from a 17.3 inch display–an *inverter* printed circuit board for one display size may be completely different on a different sized display, even though the part performs the *same function*, and is part of a general model line of laptops.

So, in my opinion, unless specifically shown that a specific model number does not make a difference, I would say specifics do count!

Of course, *your mileage may vary*, as will @ Slowpoke47’s.

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Just Lurking wrote:

If the intention is to find and replace specific parts, then I would have to answer *Yes*!

Once it is known parts need to be purchased, knowing the specific parts is relevant…

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Currently have laptop base opened, flat cables not disconnected, but I can see the components- there is nothing in there that looks like the descriptions and pictures I have seen of an inverter.  At this point, I believe I have seen everything there is to see in there.

Is it possible that the second photo posted earlier, and ID’ed as a Skype camera, is actually the inverter?

Here’s a closeup of that part.  I’m sure the black “flower” in the center is a Skype aperture, as it sits directly behind the hole in the screen surround.

I have not removed the display from the lid, but is the inverter ever located behind it?

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Yes the back light led driver (inverter?) board could be behind the display, there is a visible portion of a flat flex board where the connector’s wires are soldered on to. (There is some other thing on the bottom right next to the hinge.)

To save money, sometimes the led back light driver circuitry could be located on the main board.

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Slowpoke47

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Ebay searches for 13p2sf108 give parts described as webcams, not inverters.  Also to me it does not look like an inverter, it should have more wires or connections going in and out.

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Slowpoke47

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Thanks.  Also, entering any of those three numbers into websites selling inverters returns no hits.

Tomorrow I’ll look behind the screen.  If I’m going to lose tiny screws, I prefer to do it in daylight.  None lost or left over yet- just the way I like it…

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In case you haven’t seen this one yet, here’s a YouTube video that shows where the inverter is (and what you have to dismantle in order to get there) in an Acer Aspire 8920; it’s at the 3:40 mark but watch the beginning of the video to see if this model resembles yours.

Acer backlight failure bad inverter and test CCFL lamps
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sj1deIj5lpc

 

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Slowpoke47

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Thanks for your interest.  Our Acer’s component layout differs from the one in the vid.  Acer has sold dozens, maybe hundreds, of different models.  As mentioned, I’ve seen everything there is to see in the base, and there is nothing in there that looks like any pix of LCD inverters I have come across.  BTW- getting into the base is not for the faint of heart!

Today I’ll go back into the lid (MUCH easier) to look behind the display- the only area not as yet visited.

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@ Slowpoke47

This article was published on Nov. 14, 2014. Assuming it is accurate, and therefore still valid, see the quotes below the link:

Is my screen LED or LCD?

“IS MY SCREEN LED OR LCD?” – is is an incorrect question; as all laptop screens are LCD screens, some of them are LED LCD screens and some are CCFL LCD screens.

and:

Most newer (as of 2014) laptops and all brand-new laptops are made with LED backlit LCD panels.

And another article from that same website:

Does my screen come with an inverter?

LED and CCFL are merely the backlight types

As LED [Light Emitting Diode] screens don’t need the high voltages as of a cathode lamp (CCFL), and LEDs require a DC voltage, the LED screens do not use the inverter.

Just Lurking wrote:

what is your *specific laptop model*?

Without an exact model number, it’s impossible to advise you as to what your situation is. But, based on the above information, if your laptop was manufactured in approx. 2015, then there is a high likelihood that your laptop uses LED back lighting, and not CCFL (Cold Cathode Fluorescent Light) back lighting.

If that’s true, then you will not find an *inverter* present on your laptop!

Just Lurking wrote:

Have you verified that an inverter is used for your laptop model? Have you seen a wiring schematic for your specific model laptop showing that part, and a part number?

If you have found laptop specs for your laptop model number that states that is uses CCFL (Cold Cathode Fluorescent Light) back lighting, then you will probably find an inverter on the laptop.

Knowing the specific hardware model number does make a difference.

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Slowpoke47

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Well, of course, I do have the numbers for this machine.  Didn’t post them because it would have seemed to me tantamount to asking others to comb the web on my behalf.  I actually did find the site you linked to, the screen for our machine is “out of stock.”  Chapter and verse, for the record,

Acer Aspire E1-731-4699   17.3″ display, build date 10/15/2014

s/n NXMGAAA004442007167200

As yet no tech info found- no parts lists, repair data, specs, anything.  As mentioned earlier, I am well familiar with diagnosis and repair strategies (electronic and non-), logic, and the like, but never before needed to apply them to computer internals.

 

 

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Kirsty

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After all this finagling, I have to ask one obvious (maybe silly) question.
If this problem is on the Win7 side of the double boot, did you just install the January Win updates?
Seems both the Rollup and the SO both have a black screen bug if the desktop picture is set to Stretch.

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Bill C., Slowpoke47

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NightOwl is most observant!  Although I wasn’t in the room, I’m told that the user had Mint booted up, looking at one of the national news sites, walked away from the computer, and upon return found the screen black, with the audio still working.

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You’ve read all the hoorah about MS’s last patch for Win7, I suppose?

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Slowpoke47

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@ PKCano

PKCano wrote:

If this problem is on the Win7 side of the double boot, did you just install the January Win updates?
Seems both the Rollup and the SO both have a black screen bug if the desktop picture is set to Stretch.

Ah, excellent question–but I think there is a hint that answers that question here:

Slowpoke47 wrote:

Yes, it’s so nearly black that the only reason I can make out anything- i.e. Mint logo– is that I know what I’m looking for.

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Slowpoke47

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PKCano wrote:

You’ve read all the hoorah about MS’s last patch for Win7, I suppose?

I stopped patching Windows around Nov. when the advice here seemed to get somewhat ominous.  At that time, almost fully moved to Mint, there seemed to be no compelling reason to continue updating Win7.  Looked to me as though MS had abandoned Win7 long before now.

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[Slowpoke47]

Seems like my best strategy now, given the info posted to this thread, is to continue looking for a vendor offering a screen for this model, and ask about the question of inverter or no inverter.  Having tested using a remote screen as advised here, and found the laptop functional with that config, my understanding is that either the display or the inverter has failed.  As is often said in reference to other types of repair venues, “if it ain’t there, it can’t fail.”  So- if no inverter, a new screen should be the answer.

If no vendors offer an inverter for this model, that’s a substantial clue that there isn’t one.

• This reply was modified 5 years, 3 months ago by Slowpoke47.

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New display installed.  This machine back in operating condition, once again thanks to the assistance here.  My appreciation for this rescue.

A postmortem question- would it have been ok to magnetize the screwdriver to facilitate handling those nano-screws?   I was afraid there might be some unwanted consequences to the memory or suchlike.

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Slowpoke47 wrote:

would it have been ok to magnetize the screwdriver to facilitate handling those nano-screws?

Not a problem.

The driver is so small you would need a million of them right on the HD to “possibly” damage it. Even if a magnet could damage an old HD it would have to be MEGA larger than a screwdriver (and spinning), to the tune of if your hand were caught between the magnet and a steel plate you would lose the use of that hand.

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Slowpoke47

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Absolutely agreed.  I’ve read about people doing experiments, trying to damage the data on a hard drive with strong magnets (thousands of times stronger than a magnetized screwdriver) right on the hard drive’s case, and failing. It’s difficult to damage the data on a hard drive with an external magnet!

Inside the hard drive is a powerful rare-earth magnet to drive the head (the actuator uses pulses of an electromagnet of the opposite polarity to move it).  Some people like to open up old drives to get the magnet out when disposing of them!

Hard drives are quite regularly installed in close proximity to other hard drives (that also have powerful magnets inside), so they’re either really well shielded, or the platters are not nearly as coercive as it would seem at first.  A little of each of these, I think!

Dell XPS 13/9310, i5-1135G7/16GB, KDE Neon 6.2
XPG Xenia 15, i7-9750H/32GB & GTX1660ti, Kubuntu 24.04
Acer Swift Go 14, i5-1335U/16GB, Kubuntu 24.04 (and Win 11)

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Slowpoke47

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Slowpoke47 wrote:

New display installed.

@slowpoke47,

Do you mind sharing the vendors name? It appears they were very helpful and quick! That’s something that should be shared. (it’s not an advertisement, share a link please)

Congrads, well done!

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Slowpoke47

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@ Slowpoke47

Slowpoke47 wrote:

New display installed. This machine back in operating condition, …

Hey! Congrats on a successful repair!

Thanks for letting us know.

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Slowpoke47

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And no screws left over- just the way I like it.

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[PKCano]

Bluetrix wrote:

Slowpoke47 wrote:

New display installed.

@slowpoke47,

Do you mind sharing the vendors name? It appears they were very helpful and quick! That’s something that should be shared. (it’s not an advertisement, share a link please)

Congrads, well done!

Cruised about online, found only a few vendors showing listings for the display we needed.  Two showed “out of stock” and the best currently available source was… Amazon!   The hits resulted from a Duck search, which also produced several dead ends, even though the search terms included the specific make/model of the laptop as well as the p/n of the screen.

My practice when searching for a multi-word target is to connect the whole mess with + symbols and without spaces, but that doesn’t always filter the hits.  Could be that the 17.3″ size is less common.

Although sold by Amazon, the vendor was http://www.eastcoastlcds.com, but their site consists of one mostly blank page that shows only an email address and phone number.  Could be they do not sell direct.  The Amazon link for the display we needed is Amazon.com: New LCD Panel For ACER ASPIRE E1-731-4699 LCD Screen 17.3 1600X900 Standard: Computers & Accessories

From order to delivery took 3 days- pretty good service!

Other hits were

acer lcd screen replacement+”aspire e1-731-4699 – Newegg.com

Contact Us : NY Laptop Parts . Com, Laptop screen Laptop parts inverters and more

Laptopinventory contact

Screen for Acer ASPIRE E1-731-4699. Replacement Laptop LCD Screen

• This reply was modified 5 years, 3 months ago by PKCano.
• This reply was modified 5 years, 3 months ago by Slowpoke47.

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Bluetrix

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