Replacement Battery for Inseego MiFi M2000

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Hello!

I wasn’t quite sure where to post this question – hope this will get some replies.

My internet is provided using an Inseego M2000 MiFi hotspot device through T-Mo (no internet where I live). I’ve had this device for about 3 years and it is out of warranty. Works great! It came with a rechargeable and replaceable battery with these specs:

3.85V  5050mAh (Typ) 19.44Wh – and looks like this.

I have a few questions about a replacement battery and charging. Before it was out of warranty, it seemed to be having some charging issues, so Inseego sent me a new charger, cable, and battery – same specs as original. Turns out the charger was the issue and I never used the new battery.

Now I am thinking that I would like to charge it and have it as a spare battery, but I have a few questions. I tried to get Inseego’s help, but they aren’t being very helpful, so I thought maybe someone here could give me some feedback?

I turned off the MiFi, put the new battery in and plugged it in, but after the first MIFI screen blinked, the display went black and I couldn’t get it to show me whether it was charging or not. It just appeared to be dead. It wouldn’t turn on and it didn’t seem to take a charge when I left it plugged in for a time.

Even when my current battery is very low, even at say 2%, it will still allow for it to charge while I use it and will show that it is charging when I charge it when the device it turned off. Why would the new one not do that?

When I first got that replacement from Inseego, they said to charge it overnight at first, which I haven’t done, mainly because I am concerned that something may happen to the device itself while charging for that long, if there is an issue with the battery. Since that is my only internet, I didn’t want to risk it.

So – is it possible that trying to charge that probably dead battery could cause a problem with my device?

Should I consider buying a new replacement battery – or would its initial charge possibly do the same thing as this one?

What is the difference between the specs I have, above, and one that has these:

3.85V 3500mAh 13.48Wh – and looks like this.

When I look for a replacement, I also find one with those specs – would that work as well, and what is the difference? Some reviewers say the one that is 505mAh doesn’t fit the M2000, but that is the one that I currently have, which does fit.

Any other suggestions, advice welcome.

Thanks for the help!

LH

 

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For safety reasons, Li batteries have a built-in protection circuit that trips if the voltage goes below 1.5V.

Once it trips, it physically disconnects the external contact points from the internal battery cells and the battery will no longer accept a charge.

Sounds like that’s what’s happened with the replacement battery and, since you never tried to use it, it’s possible it might have been unchargeable right from day one.

As far as a new replacement battery…

If doesn’t indicate it’s “designed” to work in the specific device you’re going to use it in, it must:

• Be exactly the same size (Length x Width x Height)
• Have exactly the same “external” contact points
• Output exactly the same voltage (± 0.15V)

The mAh rating doesn’t really matter as it just indicates how long it’ll last before needing to be recharged (higher mAh = longer.)

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LHiggins

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Thanks so much for the reply!

n0ads wrote:

Once it trips, it physically disconnects the external contact points from the internal battery cells and the battery will no longer accept a charge. Sounds like that’s what’s happened with the replacement battery and, since you never tried to use it, it’s possible it might have been unchargeable right from day one.

So, if that was the case – then even if I left it charging overnight, it still may not have the ability to take the charge? Do you think it might be worth giving it another try and leaving it on the charger overnight? I was just reluctant to try that in case it might somehow damage the MiFi itself. And I guess that is something that could happen to a new battery as well?

As to ordering another – the first link to the one at Amazon looks identical to both of the batteries I have – same specs and P/N. I have emailed the seller to get the exact measurements to check against mine. Some of the reviews there say that the battery swells when charged and won’t fit – is that a possibility? I’ve never run into that with the one I charge every day – so might that be a sign of a less than genuine battery?

I guess I’ll also check on the return policy in case it didn’t work or take a charge.

Thanks again for the help! Would be nice to have a spare working battery – guess I should have checked that one Inseego sent when I first got it!

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LHiggins wrote:

So, if that was the case – then even if I left it charging overnight, it still may not have the ability to take the charge?

The protection circuit is a type of fusible link and, once it melts, it won’t matter how long you leave the battery connected to a charger, it will not recharge!

The primary tip off this is what happened to your battery is the fact there was absolutely no indication the battery was accepting a charge when you plugged it in. If the protection circuit was still intact, you should have see at least some sort of indication that charging was taking place.

BTW, legitimate Li batteries have this protection because, once the voltage gets too low (~1.5V), the lithium inside the battery starts to form small tendrils that eventually create direct short-circuits between the individual anodes and cathodes. Once that happens, if you try to recharge it, the battery will quickly overheat and catch fire. It can even explode!

A lot of the news stories you’ve see about Li batteries overheating and catching fire/exploding is because the batteries in use were cheaply made ones that didn’t include a proper low voltage protection circuit.

LHiggins wrote:

Some of the reviews there say that the battery swells when charged and won’t fit – is that a possibility?

While a very small bit of swelling can occur with Li battery when they’re charged, in a “legitimate” battery it shouldn’t be enough to effect whether it still fits or not.

I’d stay far away from any batteries where there’s an indication they swell so much they no longer fit as that indicates they don’t contain the proper safety measures to allow some venting of internal gases when they’re being charged.

That much swelling can lead to either the electrolyte leaking out into the electronics ruining the device or, in a worse case scenario, even exploding.

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LHiggins

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Thanks for all of the information! Much appreciated.

How will I know if it is a legitimate battery? I’ve seen a few on Amazon that say Inseego on them like the one I have, and the specs match. I also saw a few on eBay that say they are “genuine” Inseego batteries. Is there a way to tell before I’d order one – or is there something to look for once I’d get it? The ones on Amazon have free returns, so it could go back if need be.

Or is there a reputable battery sales store online that I could check into also?

I’m waiting for some information from 2 of the Amazon sellers, so hopefully they will answer the few questions I have and I can make a decision.

Thanks again for the help and suggestions!

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You could try a brick and mortar store. Batteries Plus has stores over much of the US. I’ve been in a few in the Southeast and in the Pacific Northwest. The ones I’ve been in have batteries for things I never knew required batteries. I’m sure they’re not the only brick and mortar stores, but here’s a storelocator site for them: https://www.batteriesplus.com/store-locator

They also have online sales and an 800 number.

I’m not affiliated with them in any way, but I’ve had good experiences with them.

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LHiggins, Myst

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for Batteries Plus

I’ve used them before and, if they don’t have the particular battery you need on hand in the store, they can normally get it for you fairly quickly!

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DrBonzo, LHiggins

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DrBonzo wrote:

You could try a brick and mortar store. Batteries Plus has stores over much of the US.

Thanks! I did look there and didn’t find this battery, but I emailed them to see if they might actually have it.

 

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DrBonzo

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ALL batteries have…..some…..self discharge. HOW much can be variable. WHAT the voltage state was when you got yours was?
I’d guess you don’t know. Without checking you are in the dark. No telling how long that battery was sitting on a shelf. Yours probably went dead just sitting.
Get yourself a cheap digital voltmeter and learn how to do simple volt tests.  (Harbor Freight has them also.)

I disagree with nOads:[The protection circuit is a type of fusible link and, once it melts, it won’t matter how long you leave the battery connected to a charger, it will not recharge!]
I have LOTS of Li batteries with protection circuits. It is a circuit ‘breaker’ NOT a fusible link.
It CAN be reset, BUT LOTS OF CHARGERS WILL NOT DO SO. You have to get a 3.7 volt source and ‘short’ the + to + and – to -, for just a few seconds. (Ignore the contacts that are NOT +/-). THEN try to charge it normally.
(Note-it does not have to be a 18650 lithium. It can be a holder with 3xAAA Nimh in it often used in 18650 compatible lights). ANY 3x NiMh in series will do it.
If it will not charge after that, consider it dead.

Replacements – Good luck with OEM replacements of batteries of that sort. LOTS of things, especially cameras and older phones come with that style of battery. They almost NEVER have the same capacity as the originals, and the seller/source frequently claims MORE than the original. At the 98% level people don’t have the equipment or skill to check…..so they go on faith. I DO have the equipment and I’ve measured HOARDS of them. I’ve found 2x non-original batteries that were as good as the originals.

What you SHOULD have done:
1. Immediately check the voltage of the new battery. It SHOULD be between 3.0v > 4.2 volts, the normal range for lithium. Below 3.0v is harmful. Above 4.2v may cause fire. Keeping it in that range is the function of the charger and protection circuit.
2. If it met #1, you should have charged it and used it to see how it worked. You’ve had it long enough you could likely get a ‘seat of the pants’ feel for the working capacity.
3. TRY to keep the battery between 20%-80% charge. Full discharge, and CONTINUOUS full charge is hard on lithium. (Note-The charge circuit SHOULD charge to 4.2v and shut off, exactly like a laptop.).
4. If you want to have a ‘spare’, try to get it to 50% charge (40-60% is fine), and keep it in a dry cool place. Check it once in awhile and maybe give it a few ‘cycles’ of use.

Moderator’s Note: Cleaned up bbCode in post that made a portion hard to read.

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LHiggins

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Thanks for the reply. Yes, hindsight is usually 20/20 LOL!

firstmerk wrote:

Replacements – Good luck with OEM replacements of batteries of that sort. LOTS of things, especially cameras and older phones come with that style of battery. They almost NEVER have the same capacity as the originals, and the seller/source frequently claims MORE than the original.

My concern is getting one that isn’t comparable and won’t work properly. I have seen several on Amazon and eBay that “look” authentic – all the specs, graphics and P/N match, so I am probably going to go with one of those. Most on Amazon can be returned, so I guess nothing lost in trying.

I am waiting to hear back from Inseego – they may have one that I can buy directly from them – but if the one they sent me, that I never charged at the time, was dead, then getting one from them may be no better than Amazon.

Live and learn!

Thanks for the input!

 

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