Replaced power supply unit, now keyboard and mouse do not work

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Due to a power surge in my neighborhood, I just replaced an old PSU in my desktop with a new one. Computer now boots up, got my desktop and my anti-virus flashed a notice that it updated but my wireless keyboard and mouse do not work. The mouse pointer stays frozen on the screen. I tried all the USB ports front and back. Keyboard and mouse still don’t work. The batteries in the wireless keyboard and mouse are fresh and I re-initialized the receiver. The green lights on the receiver, keyboard and mouse glow green. I pulled out the wireless and tried a wired keyboard and mouse and they don’t work either.

I tried to get to Safe Mode. I powered up with wired keyboard and mouse attached and pressed the F8 key constantly. As those screens were zipping by, I noticed it said: Devices: keyboard and mouse. So, the computer saw them. I got the Boot Selector Pop Up Menu and the keyboard worked because I arrowed down to my choice. I then got to the Windows Advanced Options Menu and arrowed up to the Safe Mode choice and pressed enter. I got that horrible screen, covered top to bottom with Mult(0)Disk(0)rdisk(0) blah blah lines. I kept pressing F8 and enter and the screen never changed. I re-booted over and over hoping to get to Safe Mode but just kept getting that dreaded screen.

The inside of my computer is very simple. I think there were only six PSU connections: mainboard, 1 long plug, 1 4-prong plug and one more plug, near the long plug; DVD drive, 1 plug; CD drive, 1 plug and HDD, 1 plug (plus reconnected a plug that was connected to a flat wire which did not connect to the psu).

Thanks for any help here.

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Due to a power surge in my neighborhood

Unfortunately that could appear that you had more damage than was apparent.

However, the information about the computer or motherboard and the power supply is missing. That information is critical as not every replacement power supply connections are the same, some use a 20-pin main cable to the motherboard, some use a 24-pin, some use an additional 4-pin connector, some use an 8-pin connector, etc.

Before you wonder "Am I doing things right," ask "Am I doing the right things?"

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Sorry. I purposely left some information out of my post because I thought it was too long already.

I have a non-branded, DIY computer.

I replaced an AGI 430W HP-E4009F5WR power supply with a Corsair CX600 600W ATX12V v2.3 80 plus bronze certified power supply. The motherboard is an Asus P5LD2 Deluxe. The graphics card is an ATI Radeon HD 3400 Series.

Regarding the power supply unit, there was an issue with the 4-hole plug that goes into the motherboard. I unsnapped an 8-hole plug (on a wire leading from the power supply) into 2 4-hole plugs, each 4-hole plug with 2 very small sockets on top of each other forming a square. Looking into one of the now 4-hole plugs, 2 of the very small sockets looked square and 2 of them looked roundish, matching, I think, the 4 sockets on the mainboard. That’s where I plugged it in. It clicked firmly into place. (Looking into the other now 4-hole plug, all four of the very small sockets looked roundish. I did not use this plug.)

There are no blown capacitors that I can see, no scorch marks and no burn smell.

Thanks.

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Unfortunately that could appear that you had more damage than was apparent.

However, the information about the computer or motherboard and the power supply is missing. That information is critical as not every replacement power supply connections are the same, some use a 20-pin main cable to the motherboard, some use a 24-pin, some use an additional 4-pin connector, some use an 8-pin connector, etc.

Sorry. I purposely left some information out of my post because I thought it was too long already.

I have a non-branded, DIY computer.

I replaced an AGI 430W HP-E4009F5WR power supply with a Corsair CX600 600W ATX12V v2.3 80 plus bronze certified power supply. The motherboard is an Asus P5LD2 Deluxe. The graphics card is an ATI Radeon HD 3400 Series.

Regarding the power supply unit, there was an issue with the 4-hole plug that goes into the motherboard. I unsnapped an 8-hole plug (on a wire leading from the power supply) into 2 4-hole plugs, each 4-hole plug with 2 very small sockets on top of each other forming a square. Looking into one of the now 4-hole plugs, 2 of the very small sockets looked square and 2 of them looked roundish, matching, I think, the 4 sockets on the mainboard. That’s where I plugged it in. It clicked firmly into place. (Looking into the other now 4-hole plug, all four of the very small sockets looked roundish. I did not use this plug.)

There are no blown capacitors that I can see, no scorch marks and no burn smell.

Thanks.

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There might be a workaround. Do other nonKeyboard nonMouse devices work in any of the USB ports? If no, it’s maybe mobo time. If yes, purchase a powered or non-powered USB 4-port hub [or 7-port hub], plug in USB keyboard and USB mouse, power up and test. Also, try your wireless keyboard & mouse as well.

"Take care of thy backups and thy restores shall take care of thee." Ben Franklin, revisted

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There might be a workaround. Do other nonKeyboard nonMouse devices work in any of the USB ports? If no, it’s like mobo time. If yes, purchase a powered or non-powered USB 4-port hub [or 7-port hub], plug in USB keyboard and USB mouse, power up and test. Also, try your wireless keyboard & mouse as well.

Thanks for your response but I’m afraid I don’t fully understand. The keyboard and mouse (wireless and wired) have lights that do glow green when plugged into any of the USB ports. I guess that doesn’t mean the mobo is okay? Also, the keyboard works when I power up as I can arrow up and down on the boot selector screen and Windows advanced options screen. What would a powered or non-powered USB 4-port hub [or 7-port hub] do for me?

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There might be a workaround. Do other nonKeyboard nonMouse devices work in any of the USB ports? If no, it’s like mobo time. If yes, purchase a powered or non-powered USB 4-port hub [or 7-port hub], plug in USB keyboard and USB mouse, power up and test. Also, try your wireless keyboard & mouse as well.

Thanks for your response but I’m afraid I don’t fully understand. The keyboard and mouse (wireless and wired) have lights that do glow green when plugged into any of the USB ports. I guess that doesn’t mean the mobo is okay? Also, the keyboard works when I power up as I can arrow up and down on the boot selector screen and Windows advanced options screen. What would a powered or non-powered USB 4-port hub [or 7-port hub] accomplish?

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You could try pulling the CMOS battery for a minute or two and then replace it to reset the BIOS.

By the way, those Mult(0)Disk(0)rdisk(0) blah blah lines are an indication that Safe Mode is loading. There is no need to continue to hit F8. It will take significantly longer for a Safe Mode boot than a regular boot, so be patient.

Jerry

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You could try pulling the CMOS battery for a minute or two and then replace it to reset the BIOS.

By the way, those Mult(0)Disk(0)rdisk(0) blah blah lines are an indication that Safe Mode is loading. There is no need to continue to hit F8. It will take significantly longer for a Safe Mode boot than a regular boot, so be patient.

Jerry

Thank you for this information. Is resetting a BIOS a large task? Just F8-ing on startup and changing the date/time/calendar? Will I lose any of my configurations but that?

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You could try pulling the CMOS battery for a minute or two and then replace it to reset the BIOS.

By the way, those Mult(0)Disk(0)rdisk(0) blah blah lines are an indication that Safe Mode is loading. There is no need to continue to hit F8. It will take significantly longer for a Safe Mode boot than a regular boot, so be patient.

Jerry

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It shouldn’t be a huge task especially if you haven’t made any BIOS modifications. You will lose any BIOS mods you may have made and you do want to go back into the BIOS and verify the date and time is right. It shouldn’t impact any Windows settings.

Jerry

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This page has the manual for that motherboard for Intel CPUs:
http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/socket775/P5LD2-VM/e2281_p5ld2-vm_v2.pdf

Look on page 1-28 [Adobe Reader page 40 of 90] to see that the ATXPWR item is 24-pins [the main power cable]. There is also a ATX +12 set of pins near the rear-port sockets for an additional connection, I’ve found that it is required.

The main cable may be 24-pin or may be 20-pin with an additional 4-pin plug for attaching to one end of it to give the required 24-pin connection. Motherboards for AMD CPUs are a bit different.

Before you wonder "Am I doing things right," ask "Am I doing the right things?"

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This page has the manual for that motherboard for Intel CPUs:
http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/socket775/P5LD2-VM/e2281_p5ld2-vm_v2.pdf

Look on page 1-28 [Adobe Reader page 40 of 90] to see that the ATXPWR item is 24-pins [the main power cable]. There is also a ATX +12 set of pins near the rear-port sockets for an additional connection, I’ve found that it is required.

The main cable may be 24-pin or may be 20-pin with an additional 4-pin plug for attaching to one end of it to give the required 24-pin connection. Motherboards for AMD CPUs are a bit different.

Here is the manual and disk that came with my motherboard. It’s different from the one you present. We’re on the same page, right?http://i.imgur.com/mNsToh4.png

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BlueNumber, I was hoping to provide a “second device” for testing; meaning the technique of trying something else, something different, to see if things will work again. You uncovered a great point — it’s possible that the chipset for keyboard & mouse may be damaged, I don’t know. Just grasping at straws, hoping one would be the successful straw.

"Take care of thy backups and thy restores shall take care of thee." Ben Franklin, revisted

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I got to Safe Mode. The keyboard worked as I was able to use the arrow keys to get to the Boot Selector Pop Up Menu and the Windows Advanced Options Menu to get to Safe Mode but after I got there, the keyboard and mouse did not work any more. The pointer just stayed frozen on the screen like before.

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Due to a power surge in my neighborhood, I just replaced an old PSU in my desktop with a new one.

Unless you can elaborate more on that, it sounds like your board sustained a little more damage than thought.
Either that, or your new PSU is a bit too new for the old board you have, unlikely though.

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Unless you can elaborate more on that, it sounds like your board sustained a little more damage than thought.
Either that, or your new PSU is a bit too new for the old board you have, unlikely though.

The lights/electricity at home flickered causing the tv, refrigerator, computer and everything else to power down. On a hunch, I replaced the old AGI 430W HP-E4009F5WR power supply with a refurbished (newegg.com) Corsair CX600 600W ATX12V v2.3 80 plus bronze certified power supply. Windows loads, I get my desktop, etc. but the keyboard the mouse don’t work and the mouse pointer stays frozen on the screen. The motherboard is an Asus P5LD2 Deluxe. The graphics card is an ATI Radeon HD 3400 Series. Thanks.

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Its a long shot but look in the BIOS for a USB legacy mode setting and enable it.

Jerry

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Its a long shot but look in the BIOS for a USB legacy mode setting and enable it.

Jerry

Thank you. If it doesn’t work, I’ll be able to change it back with minimal trouble, right?

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Its a long shot but look in the BIOS for a USB legacy mode setting and enable it.

Jerry

Jerry,

I did this and the result is the same. Pointer is still frozen on the screen. Seems so silly that I get my desktop, my anti-virus messages me that it updated my system, tinywatcher loads and the only problem, it seems, is that the mouse and keyboard don’t work. Thanks, though.

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Should be no trouble.

Jerry

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Seems so silly that I get my desktop, my anti-virus messages me that it updated my system, tinywatcher loads and the only problem, it seems, is that the mouse and keyboard don’t work

That does sound like the drivers for the USB aren’t loading in Windows. My impatience at times confirms that as Windows finishes loading drivers the keyboard and mouse become available. The same happens when using the USB Wireless devices. Do the USB ports work with other things such as a USB Thumb/Flash drive?

Does the computer also have PS/2 ports? If so might try those type devices. But then there may be issues with the hardware such as the motherboard.

Before you wonder "Am I doing things right," ask "Am I doing the right things?"

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I’m the OP and for what it’s worth, I tried a flash drive in every USB port, front and back, and the system recognized it every time with the autorun screen. In addition, my anti-virus, NOD32, recognized it every time as well.

Also, I have two PS/2 ports, one green and one purple but nothing to connect to them to test them.

Thanks.

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Also, I have two PS/2 ports, one green and one purple but nothing to connect to them to test them.

The green port is for a mouse and the purple port is for a keyboard. Maybe you could borrow one of each? Sometimes a wired USB mouse will come with a green USB to PS/2 adapter to use in the PS/2 port. I’ve seen purple USB to PS/2 adapter for a keyboard but all I’ve found is that the keyboard had to come with it originally, it’s more of a replacement part.

Before you wonder "Am I doing things right," ask "Am I doing the right things?"

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The green port is for a mouse and the purple port is for a keyboard. Maybe you could borrow one of each? Sometimes a wired USB mouse will come with a green USB to PS/2 adapter to use in the PS/2 port. I’ve seen purple USB to PS/2 adapter for a keyboard but all I’ve found is that the keyboard had to come with it originally, it’s more of a replacement part.

Berton, you’re the expert, not me, but may I ask, what would knowing whether or not the two PS/2 ports work tell you that knowing that all the USB ports work doesn’t tell you? Thanks.

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Simply that if an onboard device fails there could be other parts with problems in which case one would get a new motherboard or new computer. Also using a PS/2 keyboard on some computers allow accessing the BIOS Setup where USB doesn’t.

Before you wonder "Am I doing things right," ask "Am I doing the right things?"

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Simply that if an onboard device fails there could be other parts with problems in which case one would get a new motherboard or new computer. Also using a PS/2 keyboard on some computers allow accessing the BIOS Setup where USB doesn’t.

Whoa! Probably not necessary to replace motherboard or get a new PC.

You could try resetting the BIOS/CMOS (I have seen this problem w/ many PCs, especially after power surges).

1. Unplug the mains power from the power supply unit.

2. Remove the CMOS battery from the motherboard.

3. Use a suitable screwdriver (or some other suitable metal object) to short out the +/- contacts in the CMOS battery holder.

4. While the +/- contacts are shorted, press and release the PCs power-on switch 8 to 10 times (forces the motherboard to load the backup copy of the BIOS and resets the CMOS settings to defaults).

5. Refit the CMOS battery and plug the mains power back in.

6. Power on.

If you now have video, you will need to look at the BIOS settings (date, etc.). If not, then the motherboard is probably dead.

Note (22 November 2014): this procedure relies on residual power stored in the motherboard’s capacitors, so it is important to perform each step as quickly as possible especially after removing the mains power lead and the CMOS battery.

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Whoa! Probably not necessary to replace motherboard or get a new PC.

You could try resetting the BIOS/CMOS (I have seen this problem w/ many PCs, especially after power surges).

1. Unplug the mains power from the power supply unit.

2. Remove the CMOS battery from the motherboard.

3. Use a suitable screwdriver (or some other suitable metal object) to short out the +/- contacts in the CMOS battery holder.

4. While the +/- contacts are shorted, press and release the PCs power-on switch 8 to 10 times (forces the motherboard to load the backup copy of the BIOS and resets the CMOS settings to defaults).

5. Refit the CMOS battery and plug the mains power back in.

6. Power on.

If you now have video, you will need to look at the BIOS settings (date, etc.). If not, then the motherboard is probably dead.

Note (22 November 2014): this procedure relies on residual power stored in the motherboard’s capacitors, so it is important to perform each step as quickly as possible especially after removing the mains power lead and the CMOS battery.

Thank you, Coochin. Just so I understand:

3. Take a screwdriver or some other metal object and place it such that it touches the + and – contacts at the same time, producing a short circuit? Umm…okay but I won’t be electrocuted, right?

4. While the contacts are shorted, and assuming I am still conscious, press and release the power-up switch on the front of the computer 8-10 times? You mean re-boot, 8-10 times, right? A cold boot, 8-10 times, right? If I’m correct, how long should the box remain on before I turn it off again? How long should it remain off before I turn it on again?

If I have “video”? Does this mean those multiple screens that appear as the computer is booting up?

Thanks.

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…3. Take a screwdriver or some other metal object and place it such that it touches the + and – contacts at the same time, producing a short circuit? Umm…okay but I won’t be electrocuted, right?…

Certainly not. In step 1. the mains power lead is disconnected from the computer’s power supply unit, and remains disconnected until step 5.

The purpose of short-circuiting the CMOS battery holder’s contacts and repeatedly pressing the power-on switch is to drain away any power stored in the motherboard’s capacitors.

The CMOS battery is rated at 3 volts, many times less than required to cause an electric shock.

…You mean re-boot, 8-10 times, right? A cold boot, 8-10 times, right? If I’m correct, how long should the box remain on before I turn it off again? How long should it remain off before I turn it on again?…

No, I didn’t state anything about rebooting in step 4. (the mains power is not connected at this stage anyhow). As in parenthesis in step 4. “(forces the motherboard to load the backup copy of the BIOS and resets the CMOS settings to defaults)”.

…If I have “video”? Does this mean those multiple screens that appear as the computer is booting up?…

Yes.

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No, I didn’t state anything about rebooting in step 4. (the mains power is not connected at this stage anyhow). As in parenthesis in step 4. “(forces the motherboard to load the backup copy of the BIOS and resets the CMOS settings to defaults)”.

Still a little unclear about step 4. Do you mean that on/off flip switch on the power supply unit on the back of the computer? If so, how long should I keep it on and how long should I keep it off while turning it on/off 8-10 times? Thanks.

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Still a little unclear about step 4. Do you mean that on/off flip switch on the power supply unit on the back of the computer?…

No, not the switch on the PSU at the back; I mean the power-on switch at the front of the PC, the switch you normally use to boot the PC. Just press and release it 8-10 times.

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No, not the switch on the PSU at the back; I mean the power-on switch at the front of the PC, the switch you normally use to boot the PC. Just press and release it 8-10 times.

Coochin: “4. …press and release the PCs power-on switch 8 to 10 times…”

BlueNumber: “press and release the power-up switch on the front of the computer 8-10 times? You mean re-boot…?”

Coochin: “No, I didn’t state anything about rebooting in step 4.”

BlueNumber: “Still a little unclear about step 4. Do you mean that on/off flip switch on the power supply unit on the back of the computer?”

Coochin: “No, not the switch on the PSU at the back; I mean the power-on switch at the front of the PC, the switch you normally use to boot the PC. Just press and release it 8-10 times.”

Sorry, Coochin. Still unclear here. Isn’t pressing the power-up switch the same as re-booting? There are two buttons on the front of my computer. A larger one which I press to power up and re-boot and a smaller button which, I think, does the same thing as the on/off flip switch on the PSU on the back of the computer. Are you referring to the smaller switch? Thanks.

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…There are two buttons on the front of my computer. A larger one which I press to power up and re-boot and a smaller button which, I think, does the same thing as the on/off flip switch on the PSU on the back of the computer. Are you referring to the smaller switch?…

It should have been very clear from what I have previously posted that I was not referring to the smaller “reset” switch. In fact many newer computers don’t have that “reset” switch anyhow.

However, whether you press the “power-on” switch or the “reset” switch in step 4 makes little difference; the result will be the same.

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It should have been very clear from what I have previously posted that I was not referring to the smaller “reset” switch. In fact many newer computers don’t have that “reset” switch anyhow.

However, whether you press the “power-on” switch or the “reset” switch in step 4 makes little difference; the result will be the same.

Coochin, I certainly appreciate your help and I salute and respect your obvious expertise. However, I continue to not fully understand your step 4: “Press and release the computer’s power-on switch 8-10 times.”

a) Do I fully power-up to my Windows Desktop, then power-down completely and then do that 8-10 times?
b) Do I power-up until I see the “video” and then power-down completely and then do that 8-10 times?
c) Do I press the button to power-up just until I see the green light telling that the computer is powering up and then press the button again and power-down completely and then do that 8-10 times?
d) ???

Thanks.

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@Coochin

Is it necessary to poke about with a screwdriver shorting out terminals?

Surely most motherboards will have a jumper which will do the same thing…

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@Coochin

Is it necessary to poke about with a screwdriver shorting out terminals?…

Yes – that is it is a lot less trouble than replacing the motherboard. I have used the method on a number of seemingly dead motherboards. In almost all cases it has worked.

…Surely most motherboards will have a jumper which will do the same thing…

Certainly many motherboards have a jumper (usually “CLR_CMOS”) that can be used to reset the CMOS settings to defaults. But merely clearing the CMOS settings is unlikely to force the motherboard to replace the BIOS with its backup copy.

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I’m the original poster. I removed the battery, created a short with a screwdriver and paper clip, powered up and was forced to reset the BIOS which I did. No change. I still get to my Desktop with all my icons, system tray stuff and notifications that “NOD32 is now current”, etc. intact but the mouse and pointer still don’t work and the pointer is still frozen on the screen. I also get the screen that says “new hardware detected….” (mouse and keyboard) and several choices as to how to proceed but, of course, since the mouse and keyboard don’t work, I cannot make a selection.

Thanks, again, for any assistance. One more thing: Was it removing the battery or causing the short (or both) that caused me to have to reset the BIOS?

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