Monitor malfunctioning

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Over the past two weeks one of the two monitors on one of our workstations has been malfunctioning.

The problem was first observed when the screen took on a richer light mustard tone vs its traditional white screen and its sticky note turned a rich yellow vs its normal light yellow color.

At first, I thought that an updated NVIDIA driver was the problem so I reinstalled the driver using a version that had been working properly for months. The rollback didn’t work.

Then I thought that the 15-year-old LG W2353V monitor was dying so I replaced it with an identical unit that we had in storage.  The problem persisted.

Then I switched the HDMI port that was feeding the problematic monitor.  No change.

A search of the LG support site for a driver update came back with the notice that, “If your Monitor Type is not listed, the Generic PnP Drivers supplied by your Operating System provide full functionality”.

Now, in addition to the color tone change, the monitor periodically becomes non-responsive.  It needs to be powered down and then powered back up in order to return it to service.

The system configuration is:

• HP ENVY Desktop – 795-0050
• Operating system – Windows 10 Pro 64-bit Version: 19045.4529
• Graphic device
  • NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB
  • Driver version 31.0.15.5161 (2/15/2024)
• Monitors
  • LG E2341 [Monitor] (23.1″vis, new March 2011)
  • LG W2353V [Monitor] (23.1″vis, new February 2009) (the defective unit)

Short of purchasing a new monitor, I would appreciate any guidance related to how to return the LG W2353V monitor to its historic state.

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Faulty cable? Have you tried using a completely different audio/video cable from the monitor to the PC? (try from the other monitor that works to test)

Windows - commercial by definition and now function...

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Myst, Kathy Stevens

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Microfix

Switching the cables between monitors addressed the issue.
But, by switching the cables – I returned the monitors to their original configuration and cabling.

It is possible that I was dealing with a plug issue. Possibly heat related.

We have been operating through excessive heat warnings and the temperature in my office is approaching 80 degrees F and the humidity is 65%.

Thank you.

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Myst

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I had a similar problem with my 2011 Toshiba monitor for a few years. It was what Microfix posted, and you discovered, power cable issue. Glad you fixed your issue with the monitor.

MacOS iPadOS and sometimes SOS

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Kathy,

It could also be an issue with how the cable plugs into the monitor.

My nephew had a problem where his monitor would freeze up, get dim, or go blank, and swapping HDMI cables always fixed it. He even bought a brand new cable, but the problem keep showing up fairly regularly.

Strange thing was, the original cable worked just fine on a different monitor and even worked fine with the flaky monitor if swapped back in.

During a visit to help him move into a new apartment, I discovered the cable to the monitor easily fell out of the socket if jiggled a little bit.

Turned out the whole problem was the HDMI socket on the monitor was oriented such that the cable hung straight down when plugged in and the weight of the extra cable running down toward the floor was enough to cause it to “slowly” work it’s way loose.

His particular monitor didn’t have a cable management hole in it like mine does so I lifted up some excess cable from where it headed to the floor and zip-tied it to the monitor’s stand to remove the extra weight that was tugging on the connection.

Problem solved!

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The problem was first observed when the screen took on a richer light mustard tone vs its traditional white screen and its sticky note turned a rich yellow vs its normal light yellow color.

Long shot 1: Your monitor probably has a built in “photo effect” as part of the On Screen Display (OSD) Selection and Adjustment settings that might include sepia and could account for the “light mustard tone” you mentioned.  Seems unlikely this would have been activated by accident, but maybe worth a double check to eliminate it.

Long shot 2: Consider trying the “Studio” version of the NVIDIA GeForce driver. The studio versions leave out the “game ready” code for specific games. The studio version is a choice during the initial setup install of any NVIDIA GeForce driver.

Desktop mobo Asus TUF X299 Mark 1, CPU: Intel Core i7-7820X Skylake-X 8-Core 3.6 GHz, RAM: 32GB, GPU: Nvidia GTX 1050 Ti 4GB. Display: Four 27" 1080p screens 2 over 2 quad.

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The 15-year-old LG W2353V monitor that we thought was dying back in July 2024 lives on.

At the time the monitor was connected to a HP ENVY Desktop – 795-0050 workstation via a  HDMI cable. The computer was configured as follows:

• Operating System, Windows 10 Pro,
• Processor, Intel Core i7-8700 (3.2 GHz base frequency, up to 4.6 GHz with Intel Turbo Boost Technology, 12 MB cache, 6 cores),
• Graphics, NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 1060, and
• Memory, 32 GB.

In December, in anticipation of the transition to Windows 11, we replaced the ENVY Desktop with a HP Z2 Tower G9 Workstation Desktop configured as follows:

• Operating system, Windows 11 Pro 64-bit Version: 26100.2894,
• Microprocessor, Intel Core i7-14700,
• Memory, two 16GB [0x9B85] 6000MHz,
• Graphic, NVIDIA T400 4GB, and
• Current resolution 1920 x 1080.

Now the 15-year-old LG W2353V monitor is alive, well, and functioning as it did when it was new.

Who knows what the problem was? We are using the same HDMI cable as before except that the interface with the graphics card is via a mini-port plug.

I guess the good news is that by replacing the computer, in anticipation of the transition to Windows 11, we were able to save money by not having to purchase a new monitor! Thank you Microsoft.

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Microfix

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RESOLVED? hint…

Windows - commercial by definition and now function...

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