HP Pavilion Desktop DVD/CD Player Making Loud Noises with DVD inserted

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All of a sudden, the DVD/CD player on our HP Pavilion desktop (running Windows 7.1) has started making very strange, loud, sort of buzzing noises when trying to play a disc. With some discs, the noise stops once the program plays; with others, the disc will not load the program. It just keeps making that loud sound as it spins (I suspect it’s spinning anyway!). The discs load fine – and quietly – in the laptop.

Does this mean the player is dying or in need of repair? Is there a way I can test it to find out? Don’t want to wreck anything!

Any suggestions most welcome and always appreciated.

Linda

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Does this mean the player is dying or in need of repair?

In my opinion, Yes. If under warranty contact HP. If not, replace it. They are not very expensive these days anyhow.
Hope this helps.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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+1 for replacement.

cheers, Paul

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DVD/CD player … making very strange, loud, sort of buzzing noises

Don anti-static and hazmat gear, and check inside your PC for a bees’ nest.

Moving right along. It’s likely a bearing is going bad in the drive, or sth else which results in the spin going a little off balance–with the speed those drives spin at, it only needs a tiny off-center variation to imitate bees. While it shouldn’t damage discs or anything else, it’ll drive you nuts after a while.

Does your PC sit on a surface which is subject to vibration, like a table with a room fan or small fridge on it? It’s unlikely, but that could cause those symptoms too, especially if anything new was introduced to the room when the problem started.

Also no harm to open the case and have a quick look at how the drive is mounted. Are the brackets and screws tight? Maybe someone opened it recently and forgot to tighten up properly.

With all that, as the guys said, they’re cheap to replace.

Lugh.
~
Alienware Aurora R6; Win10 Home x64 1803; Office 365 x32
i7-7700; GeForce GTX 1060; 16GB DDR4 2400; 1TB SSD, 256GB SSD, 4TB HD

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Buzzing noises generally indicate multiple attempts to read a track so the heads buzz back and forth over a few tracks. This is either due to a bad CD or a failing drive.

cheers, Paul

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Sheesh, guys, so sorry for not responding. For some reason, I was notified of only lumpy’s first reply.

Anyway, here’s the update: looks as if lumpy, Paul et al were right: the drive is failing or has failed. It won’t play any discs now as I discovered trying to load a printer install CD. I may get brave enough to look inside, but for now, I wonder if an external USB drive could be a temporary low cost work around.

PC is Windows 7 and about 5 years old, so don’t want to spend a lot on it…nor do I want to upgrade yet. I found a number of these drives on Newegg. Would anyone have time to check out the link and let me know if the VicJake one on sale for $16.39 would work. I think my USB is a 2.0, given age of HP Pavilion PC.

Link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=usb+cd%2Fdvd+drive+windows&N=-1&isNodeId=1

If it will work, I’ll order it for a late Christmas present for my computer!:^_^:

Thanks for any advice. Realize “tis the season” so you might all be otherwise occupied, but will check back here even if no email notification.

Linda

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The VicJake one on sale for $16.39 should be fine. Although the advert describes it as ‘all version MAC’, clicking on the link shows it works with Windows systems as well, including Windows 7.

Hope this helps…

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+1 for Rick’s assessment.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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Thanks so much, Rick and lumpy. I needed reassurance as replacing PC hardware is definitely NOT a personal area of expertise!

I’m going to go ahead and order it and will let you know how it works out.

Sure appreciate you taking time to check out the link for me and evaluate my choice.:fanfare::clapping:

Linda

P.S. Oops, just reading its specs, saw this: “When you connect the CD drive to the desktops, please connect it with the computer’s mortherboard to avoid of power shortage.” Is this a problem? I sure don’t know how to connect anything to the motherboard!

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…P.S. Oops, just reading its specs, saw this: “When you connect the CD drive to the desktops, please connect it with the computer’s mortherboard to avoid of power shortage.” Is this a problem? I sure don’t know how to connect anything to the motherboard!

I think they mean you should connect the drive to one of the USB ports on the rear of the PC. Those rear ports are almost always mounted directly on the motherboard, while the front USB ports usually are wired to pins on the motherboard, so the front ports might not supply enough power.

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Oops, just reading its specs, saw this: “When you connect the CD drive to the desktops, please connect it with the computer’s mortherboard to avoid of power shortage.” Is this a problem? I sure don’t know how to connect anything to the motherboard!

I have one of these slimline external optical drives and usually it works OK using just the one connector cable (power + data). However, on occasion I have to use the second cable (just power) as well, particularly when used with some laptops. With desktops/towers, Coochin’s correct… use the rear USB ports whenever possible.

Hope this helps…

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Just to be a little more specific, the area on the back of your computer where the snap-in plate is ( where you generally plug in your mouse & keyboard & onboard sound/video ). Hopefully you have an open USB port there because those ports are directly to the MB.
Personally, I would just get an internal DVD/CD player since it’s relatively simple to change them out and they are cheap now-a-days. You would just need to know if the connection is SATA or the older IDE.
Hope this helps

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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Thank all of you so much. I now understand what is meant re. motherboard. Good learning!

Also note lumpy95’s advice…just nervous re. doing install myself.

Will ponder a bit more and post back “ponder outcome”.

Can’t tell you how much I appreciate your detailed and clear explanations and super fast responses!

Many thanks once again,

Linda

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Also note lumpy95’s advice…just nervous re. doing install myself.

HP Pavilions, both desktop and tower models, are engineered to be (almost) tool-free. Once you take the case lid off (usually secured by a single screw then slid backwards) you need to gently un-clip the front fascia so the optical drive can be pushed forward, un-plugged and removed. If you let us know the exact model no. then we can confirm this from its manual and probably whether the optical drive is SATA or IDE. (Or download/run Piriform’s Speccy… this will tell you the make/model of optical drive.)

The only possible, and very slight, hiccup is that – whilst the optical drive is held in a drive enclosure and can be released without tools – HP tend to use 4 screws with Torx-heads on the drive itself, and these usually need to be transferred over to any replacement.

Having said that… it’s a very, very easy job to do and should take less than 30 minutes even if you’ve never taken the top off a PC before.

Hope this helps…

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Linda:

If you get an external drive, you will be able to use it on all of your computers, not just the one in question. And it won’t be that expensive.

It’s not that hard to replace the internal ones — to remove the bad drive, just power down, open the case, unplug a couple of wires, and remove a couple of screws. To install the new drive is the reverse.

But the external one will hold you till you get brave enough to replace the internal one!

Jim

Group "L" (Linux Mint)
with Windows 10 running in a remote session on my file server

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Thanks, Rick and Jim. Great advice and extremely helpful directions. Also looked up “how to” install drive on hp.com and could see Rick/s directions explained with pictures. It doesn’t sound too difficult and I did manage to install a new hard drive in this computer a couple of years ago…with success, despite nervousness!

The other point in favor of going internal is that there are no open USB slots on the back of the PC right now. There may be soon as I’m experimenting with a donated wireless printer. If it works as well as our current wired one, using the wireless would free up the wired printer’s USB port.

Of course, Jim is correct, too: could get the external for immediate use and the internal a bit later.

Pluses and minuses for either solution, but wonderful to have 2 options! Will definitely get the specific specs for the current internal drive and post them here to ensure getting the right drive before ordering.

I am in debt to all of you and grateful for all your generous help and support!

Linda

P.S. Checked Belarc Advisor and saw this re. drive:
hp CDDVDW TS-H653R SATA CdRom Device [Optical drive]
Is that enough to go shopping or do I need Speccy as well?

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Linda:

Here is something you can get to add some USB ports:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sabrent-HB-UMP3-MAC-PC-4-Port-5Gbps-USB-3.0-Hub-w-Power-Adapter/45074514

It is a powered USB hub; that is, it has its own power adapter; it doesn’t depend on the power it can draw from the USB line. This is an important detail, because sometimes the ones which draw power from the USB line don’t have enough power for the various devices which are plugged into them; but the ones which have their own power adapters will always have enough power.

Of course, you could always add a USB controller card to your computer, thereby adding some USB ports to the back of the computer!

Jim

Group "L" (Linux Mint)
with Windows 10 running in a remote session on my file server

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P.S. Checked Belarc Advisor and saw this re. drive:
hp CDDVDW TS-H653R SATA CdRom Device [Optical drive]
Is that enough to go shopping or do I need Speccy as well?

It’s SATA so that is the info you need for an internal drive to match your cables.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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Thanks again, Jim and lumpy95. Checked Jim’s link and that looks like a great addition if we keep the wired printer…or even if we don’t. I often wish I had more USB ports available.

Understand re. internal drive specs. Will find a possible product and post back a link for you to double check before ordering.

Not sure which option I’m going for yet, however. And there’s always, “why not both?” :rolleyes:

Linda

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Okay, think the Christmas spirit (not to mention all your help) has made me feel brave enough to go for an internal one. More work at the beginning perhaps, but cleaner and easier fix ongoing.

Here’s an inexpensive one I found on Newegg. Does it work for this PC? Or do you need additional information in order to know? If the latter, I’ll gladly provide it.
Link:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=17D-001H-00002.

Thanks for your advice on this one.

Linda

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Here’s an inexpensive one I found on Newegg. Does it work for this PC? Or do you need additional information in order to know? If the latter, I’ll gladly provide it.
Link:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=17D-001H-00002.

That one looks fine. I must admit to having a preference for LiteOn optical drives. I’ve bought probably more than a dozen over the last couple of years for family and friends as replacement drives and have never had a problem with them nor had to carry out firmware updates to deal with issues. By comparison, I’ve stopped buying replacement Sony, Memorex, Plextor or HP optical drives after a number of issues – usually disks no longer being recognised.

My only other comment is that $21.99 seems a little bit expensive. I usually pay around £12.50 ($15.35) including postage and tax (called V.A.T. here in the U.K.). For example, a similar LiteOn iHAS124 optical drive goes for between £11.20 ($13.75) and £13.49 ($16.56), both with free postage.

46301-optical-drives
Click to enlarge

All you need is what’s described as an ‘OEM’ or ‘Bare’ drive, i.e. a replacement optical drive sold in a plain brown box with no additional software, screws or cables.

Hope this helps…

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The DVD drive you have selected looks good to me. The SATA power and data connections are extremely easy to unplug and reconnect. And the plugs are shaped in such a way that you can’t possibly get them wrong.

And while you’re in the mood to install the DVD drive, you might want to consider installing a USB controller card. It’s not hard; you just need to power down the computer, and then touch metal with your hands (to get the static electricity out of them) before handling the card. And don’t touch the gold tabs on the card (the part that plugs into the computer); handle the card on the edges, or by the silver-colored end piece.

Here is a good one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815166038&cm_re=usb_3.0_pci_card-_-15-166-038-_-Product
It will give you four USB3 ports on the back of your computer.

Group "L" (Linux Mint)
with Windows 10 running in a remote session on my file server

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Thanks, Jim.

If you have time, one further question that I can’t figure out from posted specs: does this burn CD’s as well as play them? What’s in the PC now does.

I’m thinking about the USB card…

Oh, just read Rick. I’ll check some more to see if it is “bare”…perhaps it has extra and unneeded stuff in it making it more expensive??

Linda

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Thanks, Jim.

If you have time, one further question that I can’t figure out from posted specs: does this burn CD’s as well as play them? What’s in the PC now does.

Yes. The tip off is that it is called a DVD writer.

Group "L" (Linux Mint)
with Windows 10 running in a remote session on my file server

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Well, duh! Thanks.

Also, after reading Rick’s post re. price, did some searching, but found nothing less expensive. Newegg is providing free shipping, so that will save some dollars (a.k.a. pounds).

Appreciate the links, lumpy95. I remember using the site how to instructions to install the hard drive…very helpful. I even bought an anti-static wrist band for extra protection from static (I know: have since discovered that was overly cautious, but it made me feel more confident opening the case).

Off to order the drive…a late Christmas present!

Huge thanks again everyone. This Lounge is fantastic!

Linda

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…and it’s done. Will post back with how the install goes once it gets here.

Merry Christmas and much gratitude,

Linda

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…and it’s done. Will post back with how the install goes once it gets here.

Merry Christmas and much gratitude,

Linda

46302-no-problemo
Click to view… but it’s boring

Hey, it’s (almost) Xmas…

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Just to add to the conversation, here are a couple of HP Pavillion ( you didn’t say the exact model ) install guides to show you how to do it.
Adding or Replacing a CD/DVD Drive in HP Pavilion Elite HPE-000, m9000 Series Desktop PCs http://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c01176843

Replacing or Adding a CD/DVD Drive in HP Pavilion p7-1000 Series Desktop PCs http://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c02905554

does this burn CD’s as well as play them?

Yes

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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Ha, Rick…just saw your post and watched No problemo. So, feeling confident that this task will be “no problemo” as well, I’m off to install the new disk. First steps: open the disk drive’s delivery box and check it out, print out the HP instructions and get started (after powering down my PC, of course).

Will let you all know how it went once it’s done!

Linda

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Ta da! It’s done. Cannot believe how simple it was (compared to the hard drive especially)…as you had all said.

The only thing that puzzled me was ALL the wires behind the drive. I finally figured out that some were for a second drive and other add-ons. They also were hard to see around with the case upright as suggested in the HP instructions so I lay the PC flat to work on it…better.

Also, it was a bit tricky/awkward to get at the 2 cables I had to detach, but it worked out fine when I went slowly.

One hint for other amateurs: I had trouble figuring out how to insert the 2 cables in the new drive once it was in place. I pulled it out again, tried inserting the cables into the drive outside the case where it was easier to see; then, re-inserted drive and could get the cables in the right places easily.

So I’m feeling great and have to thank all of you again for your patient assistance throughout. I’m so glad now that I took the plunge. It’s so much neater to have the DVD in the PC, given the space restrictions of this home office.

Many many thanks again…you have helped tremendously and are tremendously appreciated by this Lounger.

Happy New Year!

Linda

P.S. Played a dvd perfectly with absolutely no grinding or other odd noises. Guess the OEM drive had konked out, as you thought.

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Excellent! Congratulations, Linda, and thanks for letting us know.

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Ta da! It’s done. Cannot believe how simple it was (compared to the hard drive especially)…as you had all said.

DVD drives are always simpler than hard drives. The type of connection used (SATA), plus the fact that there is no configuration required, is what makes it so simple. In the old days, with IDE connections (the wide, flat cable), it was much more complicated.

One hint for other amateurs: I had trouble figuring out how to insert the 2 cables in the new drive once it was in place. I pulled it out again, tried inserting the cables into the drive outside the case where it was easier to see; then, re-inserted drive and could get the cables in the right places easily.

Excellent suggestion!

Group "L" (Linux Mint)
with Windows 10 running in a remote session on my file server

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You’re welcome, Rick…”no problemo”!!:^_^:

Question I forgot to ask: a Nero Essentials disc came bundled with the drive. I Googled it and learned it was a basic CD burning program. Do I need to install it or will whatever worked with the original HP drive work with this new LiteOn one?

Linda

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Congrats Linda. You are now officially licensed to work on computers.:o
The software you had for burning “should” work with the new drive. Try it.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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Try it.

Will do…and will post back results once I have. Thanks, lumpy95.

Linda

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I used to use Nero until I discovered CDBurnerXP, then MS added burning to Windows and now I don’t need either.

cheers, Paul

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So, Linda, are you going to go with the external USB hub or internal USB card?

Group "L" (Linux Mint)
with Windows 10 running in a remote session on my file server

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Thanks for the “atta boys”…much appreciated. I now understand why the DVD drive was simpler than the hard drive…it really was almost plug and play since there was no configuration required. I still remember my surprised and delighted reaction when I opend “My Computer” and saw the new DVD drive appearing under “Devices with Removable Storage”…wow, my computer had already recognized the new drive!

Appreciate, too, the replies re. Nero. I’ll wait until I have to burn a disk and determine then if I need it or not. From what Paul said, it looks like I won’t need it.

As for USB, Mr. Jim, right now there is an empty USB slot at the back of the computer, thanks to the install of a new (to me) wireless printer. For now, I’ll go with the USB slots I have BUT, if I need more, I think I may even be brave enough to try for an internal card…with lots of Lounge guidance!!

My thanks for all your help, once more,

Linda

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Thanks for the “atta boys”…much appreciated. I now understand why the DVD drive was simpler than the hard drive…it really was almost plug and play since there was no configuration required. I still remember my surprised and delighted reaction when I opend “My Computer” and saw the new DVD drive appearing under “Devices with Removable Storage”…wow, my computer had already recognized the new drive!

Appreciate, too, the replies re. Nero. I’ll wait until I have to burn a disk and determine then if I need it or not. From what Paul said, it looks like I won’t need it.

As for USB, Mr. Jim, right now there is an empty USB slot at the back of the computer, thanks to the install of a new (to me) wireless printer. For now, I’ll go with the USB slots I have BUT, if I need more, I think I may even be brave enough to try for an internal card…with lots of Lounge guidance!!

My thanks for all your help, once more,

Linda

These days, everything is more simple than it used to be:

* IDE was more complicated than SATA: You had to make sure that the jumpers were set correctly, and that you were using the correct plug on the cable. Also, the wide cable was often a hassle, having to feed it around and through other wires and cables. And there was also an audio cable to deal with, if you wanted to play music CDs in your CD/DVD player. Today, it’s just plug-and-play.

* There is much better device support built into Windows these days than there used to be; in general, things often start working automatically, with the user not having to do anything. Also, it is easy to obtain the driver using Windows Update. (I know, advising someone to use Windows Update to get a driver is considered heresy by most IT professionals! But if you can’t find the driver any other way, you can use that method.)

Congratulations on the successful install of the DVD drive! And there’s no need to install a USB card right now. Wait till you need to before doing it.

Group "L" (Linux Mint)
with Windows 10 running in a remote session on my file server

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Thanks, Mr. Jim. I appreciate your explanation of why it was easier than it would have been a while ago. And I’ll wait on the USB install until needed, as you suggest.

Linda

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