How to upgrade Win10 Pro to the version of Win10 that YOU want

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We have enough experience with the settings now that I’m confident the “defer upgrades” approach to choosing a specific version of Win10 works. But it
[See the full post at: How to upgrade Win10 Pro to the version of Win10 that YOU want]

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NetDef, GreatAndPowerfulTech, zero2dash

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Remember – with Windows 10 nothing is given :).

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Which version of Win10 is best?

“Windows 10” is a double-talk name. We used to say “Which version of Windows is best?” Windows 10 was supposed to be the last version of Windows; yet we now find ourselves asking, “Which version of Windows 10 is best?”.

If all of the forced updates and patching issues aren’t enough, the double-talk “Windows 10” name ought to get your blood boiling. It does mine. I can figure out my way through the double-talk; but what about all of the millions of non-IT folks out there who are fooled by such double-talk? That is what makes my blood boil.

Group "L" (Linux Mint)
with Windows 10 running in a remote session on my file server

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Yep. Martin Brinkmann’s list of just-patched versions of Windows is a real eye-opener:

Windows 7: 13 vulnerabilities of which 2 are critical and 11 are important.
Windows 8.1: 16 vulnerabilities of which 2 are critical and 14 are important.
Windows 10 version 1607:  18 vulnerabilities of which 2 are critical and 16 are important
Windows 10 version 1703:  16 vulnerabilities of which 1 is critical and 15 are important
Windows 10 version 1709: 18 vulnerabilities of which 1 is critical and 17 are important
Windows 10 version 1803: 17 vulnerabilities of which 1 is critical and 16 are important
Windows 10 version 1809: 17 vulnerabilities of which 1 is critical and 16 are important
Windows Server 2008 R2: 13 vulnerabilities of which 3 are critical and 10 are important.
Windows Server 2012 R2: 16 vulnerabilities of which 3 are critical and 13 are important.
Windows Server 2016: 19 vulnerabilities of which 3 are critical and 16 are important.
Windows Server 2019: 18 vulnerabilities of which 2 are critical and 16 are important.

Each of those is an active, and actively updated, version of Windows.

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Elly, satrow, BobbyB

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It seems to me (I haven’t yet tried this) that if you download the desired version of Windows 10 and create an install disk, you could then do a non-destructive install (the one that preserves your files and settings). That should bring you up to the desired version of Windows 10 without your having to “jimmy” the upgrade settings.

Group "L" (Linux Mint)
with Windows 10 running in a remote session on my file server

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That’s true – if you can find a “genuine” copy of the ISO.

Thus my recommendation that folks download 1803 and save it for a rainy day.

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Elly, BobbyB

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Go to heidoc.net and download their tool for downloading any supported version of Windows or Office. This tool is a gold mine for downloading supported software from Microsoft – they are all available for download.

Group "L" (Linux Mint)
with Windows 10 running in a remote session on my file server

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BobbyB

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I found this article which describes a way of getting at least the previous version from the microsoft site:
https://pureinfotech.com/windows-10-1809-iso-download/

The interface is a bit different (and I’d somehow managed to bork  my dev tools), but the method works in Firefox 62.0.3 and Vivaldi 2.2.1360.4 (chrome 71)

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I should clarify I just used the emulation options in the dev tools (iPad), not any browser extensions.

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Woody – Step 5. Dont do anything.

PK and others here have previously recommended after changing the settings to shut down your computer wait awhile then reboot to try to get Wupdater to pull down the update.

Then allow it to download, and then, before restarting for the install, disconnect from the internet.  Then restart, let install, and come back up.  Then you can check your settings including feature deferral days, etc and then reconnect to the internet.

This helps ensure the computer doesn’t come up, and heaven forbid, pull down the Windows version you did not want.

Of course all this means you have to remain awake!

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woody

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Use WSUS Here are general instructions that I would use on single PC:
1. Download Windows Server 2016/2019 trial iso
2. Install it as virtual machine using Hyper-V or VirtualBox
3. Install WSUS role on it and configure it to sync Widnows 10 updates
4. Approve that version of Windows 10 upgrade that you want
5. On Windows 10 use group policy editor to point it to your WSUS server
6. Search for updates, download and install

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BobbyB

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Your pretty much going to have to grab an .ISO from somewhere or you could try here of the Version of your choice and run from the Desktop with the Network “interweb” connection disabled, back up all that you hold dear and/or make sure you have copies of you favourite Apps/Progs/utils/drivers just in case.
Run setup.exe then follow the instructions. You’ll definitely want to keep your files etc, definitely ignore requests to connect to the internet.
When you reach your first new Desktop have a quick look around and see is everything how you want it no “Missing Files” etc then before cutting loose with the old infamous “Seek” Button and reconnecting to the Net Win10 Pro and above versions you’ll need to set your Deferrals in the settings GUI and/or GPOL inc. Drivers if applicable etc for GPOL either restart and or enter GPUPDATE /FORCE (from the Admin CMD prompt) and for Win10 all versions have a copy of WUMT or wushowhide ready. Reason being even if 1809 is slowly rolling out to machines you might be one of the “Lucky” recipients of the new version right off the hop, then hide to your content anything you don’t want after reconnection, I would advise running WUMT and or wushowhide a few times just to make sure, and you should be good.
My personal favourite is a clean install in to either a VHD(X) or a VM but whatever you may decide definitely embrace the deferral solutions above as Win10 is a tenacious “lil beastie” and it’ll throw you in to an unwanted upgrade right from the get go after connecting to the Net.

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I read this as upgrade W10 Pro to the version ‘edition’ that you want so I was thinking you could do Enterprise or Home or whatnot. Instead, it was upgrade W10 Pro to the ‘build’ version that you want with exception to the given support lifecycle of said build.

Your title:

How to upgrade Win10 Pro to the version of Win10 that YOU want

vs your article link title

How to upgrade to the version of Win10 Pro that YOU want

 

Wording matters.

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Where does one find the SAC date?

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See Woody’s ComputerWorld article. Link in main blog post.

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woody

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(/Sarcasm on) Woody, please stop mentioning that Windows 8.1 is the most stable Windows available, or someone in M$ may notice and take some action against it. (/Sarcasm off)

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anita.yk, MrJimPhelps, woody, BobbyB, Microfix

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Here are step by step instructions for upgrading Win10 from 1703 to 1709 from an ISO using an in-place upgrade. The method will be the same for an in-place upgrade from/to any other versions.

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MrJimPhelps, woody, BobbyB

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@pkcano thx for that a lot simpler than my inane ramblings above did you ever try @ch100 ‘s suggestion in the same thread?

setup.exe /dynamicupdate disable /resizerecoverypartition disable /showoobe full /telemetry disable

I never have but then again I am a devotee of the clean install, apart from backed up Data etc I find it leaves a lot of unwelcome “Baggage” from previous installations behind (not since Win8.1 to 10 on the Home front in 2015)
A bit leary about resizing the recovery partition. Are we getting in to the mysterious world of unattend.xml‘s here? definitely a time saver with clean installs at work and at home. Probably not for the average user I would imagine though in a Desktop install scenario. I suppose if folks want to try it, and its a lot easier than ADK or WAIK Windows Sim here’s as good as any: http://www.windowsafg.com/win10x86_x64_uefi.html

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Haven’t tried setup with switches.

Most people don’t want to bother with saving/restoring the data and reinstalling all the programs. Many don’t even have the media for the programs.

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Elly, BobbyB

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Yo, PKCano/Woody:  did I miss something?

In his post titled “Grab a free copy of Win10 version 1803 and save it for a rainy day” on Sep 26 (which I did), I recall no differentiation between Pro and Home. In fact, Woody explicitly wrote: “The ISO file you download with the Media Creation Tool contains both Home and Pro.”

Today’s article (“How to upgrade to the version of Win10 Pro that YOU want“, Nov 15) is all about Pro, and Woody declares: “Win10 Home customers are out of luck.”

So, am I missing something, or am I (as we used to say in the Navy) SOL?? Which is it? Sure hope it’s the former, not the latter!

Thanks guys!

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If you install clean from an ISO, you get whatever your ISO (version) and Product Key (Home or Pro) dictates.

If you do an inplace upgrade from media, you get whatever you had installed (Home or Pro), just a later version (whatever is in the media).

If you upgrade from WU, that’s a different story. The Pro version can determine the version by setting the Channel and Feature deferral times. But Home doesn’t have deferral times. They will be offered the latest. Along with Metered connections, the only thing they can do is hide (wushowhide) the latest version and hope they are offered the next earlier version. If what they want is two versions back, they have to repeat the hiding process again. All the time hoping MS doesn’t bite them. SO Home is out of luck for an easy time of it.

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Elly, Northwest Rick, anita.yk

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If you install clean from an ISO, you get whatever your ISO (version) and Product Key (Home or Pro) dictates… If you upgrade from WU, that’s a different story… Home is out of luck.

OK, the short answer is, since I have an ISO, and I am installing clean from that ISO, the alarming “Home is out of luck” verdict does not apply to me. Whew!

So, after reading Woody’s Nov 15th article again (just quick-scanned it the first time), I see he is describing a way to game MS features that are only available in Pro, and therefore does not apply to Home, which is what leaves us peasants in the latter category SOL in that regard only, but does not render us incapable of upgrading at all.

I followed your excellent generic step-by-step instructions listed here, and successfully upgraded from 1703 to 1803. I was momentarily lost between Step 4 & Step 5, but quickly realized one has to double-click the ISO to Locate setup.exe – not immediately obvious to those of us who paint by numbers and are walking on eggshells to avoid unintended “OOPS!” consequences from reckless clicking on potential booby traps! It bears remembering that the esoteric techie logic used by those who devise these procedures and methods is often not transparent to otherwise rational and competent civilians. 

Thanks for your assistance!

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I upgraded Win10 Pro on my desktop from 1709 to 1803 through Windows update on Monday night.  I decided to jump on 1803 before the 1809 beast was unleashed.

So far, so good! 

So it looks like I have about a year remaining of support for this thing.  Cool beans!

I upgraded to Win10 Home 1803 on my laptop a few months ago (by accident), and that has also been working fine for me.

Disclaimer – I took a fresh image backup before I downloaded the update!

Just to be clear, I am not a Windows 10 fanboy.  It just does what I need it to do.  That is to run a bunch of commercial software that is unavailable under Linux or WINE on Linux.  Most application developers use Windows 10 as their main development tool, so bug fixes and support are first in line for Win10.

I have been hacking around with Linux for over 15 years, so as soon as that is a total go for me, I’m gone!

I also do run a Windows 7 system for my games and entertainment, and that one will probably be Win7 forever! 

Last but not least, I am still nursing along a Windows XP VM for my end of life software that will no longer install on Win10.  Ya gotta do what ya gotta do, LOL!

 

Windows 10 Pro 22H2

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Huh.  I did not know about this method until you published it.  We’ve always used archived ISO’s to force the version we want (and use WSUS and GPO to enforce 365 day deferrals.)

I tried it tonight on a stand alone PC that was on 1703, and viola – picked up the desired 1803 within the hour.

Nice!

~ Group "Weekend" ~

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Good article Woody. I sub to the CW RSS feed so I catch most of them. I decided to move from 1709 to 1803 based on your writings. I never wanted to move off of 1703 but was having hardware problems and at a point decided to upgrade.

If we wanted to just stay on the XX03 releases, would a 120 day deferral be the best bet to do so? Even with the extended support windows on 1803+? I usually use a 365 day delay, but I’d rather just have it upgrade to the XX03 SAC release at the end of every year. Seems to me that the XX09 releases are ending up consistently worse than XX03s.

I introduced more problems when I moved from 1703 to 1709, rather than fix anything I was running into. I would’ve rolled back, but at the time I was fighting computer issues nonstop till I replaced my motherboard and did a deep CMOS reset with the jumper.

Oh, and since 1803 is the current SAC release, I just moved my deferral from 365 to 0.  No need for the 120 day delay if you have SAC set. I certainly don’t blame the caution though. I then disobeyed and hit check for updates, knowing it wasn’t very likely to pull down 1809 SACT at this point in time.

Please disable your ad blocker – our (polite!) ads help keep AskWoody going!
And, done.

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“I feel confident in saying that the mayhem surrounding Win10 hasn’t been worth the new features.

Windows 8.1 remains the most stable version of Windows.”

I feel like a prophet now :).

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columbia2011

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When I go to my Advanced screen (Win 10 Pro, ver 1703),

Branch Readiness: Current Branch for Business

Feature update deferral: 0

Quiality update  deferral: 10

How do I get those back?

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What have you changed recently in Group Policy?
Have you turned off any Services?
What new software have you installed related to updates?

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BobbyB

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“If you install clean from an ISO, you get whatever your ISO (version) and Product Key (Home or Pro) dictates.  If you do an inplace upgrade from media, you get whatever you had installed (Home or Pro), just a later version (whatever is in the media).”

PK:
On 9/26/18 I downloaded 2 files: “Media Creation Tool1803.exe” (18.6 MB) and
Windows 10 Media Creation Tool 2018 09 26.iso” (3.986 GB)
Since Woody’s method using the Advanced screen does not work for me (all grayed out),
can I instead use those two files to update from Win 10 Pro ver. 1703 to ver. 1803 and if so, how?

Thanks. CMA
MVP Edit: removal of HTML and spacing

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The Media Creation Tool will create an ISO. You can use this to produce bootable media (DVD or USB)

If you are sure the ISO you downloaded is the correct version of the Windows, you can burn it to a DVD or bootable USB.

Boot off that media and follow the directions.

NOTE: a clean install DOES NOT preserve your data or your installed programs. You will have to backup/restore the data and reinstall all of your programs.

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PK:

Are you saying that the two files I downloaded for update to ver. 1803 will wipe out all data?

If so, is there a reliable method to do an in-place update from ver. 1703 to ver. 1803?

 

I found a <span style=”background-color: #f4f4f4; color: #000000; font-family: ‘Helvetica Neue’, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px;”>July 14, 2018 post of yours with instructions on doing an in-place update from version 1703 to version 1709.  Should I follow those same instructions but use instead the file I already mentioned “Windows 10 1803 Media Creation Tool 2018 09 26.iso”?  In which case, what is the purpose of the file “MediaCreation1803.exe”?</span>

Thanks, CMA

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To do an inplace upgrade, burn the ISO to DVD or USB.
DO NOT boot from the media.

Read step by step instructions for upgrading Win10 from 1703 to 1709 from an ISO using an in-place upgrade. The instructions will be the same for 1703 -> 1803. This will preserve your programs and data if you choose to do so.

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MrJimPhelps

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Thanks, PK, I will try those 7/14/2018 instructions.

CMA

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Additional notes from:  https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10 Additional methods for using the ISO file to install Windows 10
(click to show more or less information)
If you want to install Windows 10 directly from the ISO file without
using a DVD or flash drive,  you can do so by mounting the ISO file.
This will perform an upgrade of your current operating system to Windows 10.
To mount the ISO file:
Go to the location where the ISO file is saved,
right-click the ISO file and select Properties,
On the General tab, click Change… and select Windows Explorer for the program you would like to use to open ISO files and select Apply.
Right-click the ISO file and select Mount.
Double-click the ISO file to view the files within.
Double-click setup.exe to start Windows 10 setup.

But it is a good idea to Burn the iso to DVD and/or USB stick for future use.

Note that downloading today gets you version 1809, use other places, ie Heidoc, etc.

 

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I want to upgrade from 1709 to 1803. I have the ISO file from the end of September. What happens with updates to the new version? Are the November updates stable enough? I want to check the box in the setup process to install updates and not be left with an out of date system.

Will my settings for Windows Update gave any influence on the upgrade process?

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PK or other experts:

I was able to use your instructions to successfully use iso file to go from version 1703 to version 1803. Unfortunately, I then encountered what seems to be a common problem: although I have good LAN connectivity, I have no internet access. I tried all the usual fixes to no avail.

What would be the best way to roll back to version 1703? Perhaps I could then try an iso upgrade to version 1709?

Or perhaps there is a method to  go from version 1803 to version 1709 via .iso file (but where get the .iso file?)

Thanks, CMA

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You have 10 days to roll back. I believe it’s under Update & Security\Recovers. It should say go back to previous version.

But you might try updating the driver for the network card first- from the OEM’s or the device mfg’s. You will have to download it from another computer, of course.

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cmar6

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PK: Thanks for the invaluable advice. I installed the latest Intel driver for the network card but no luck.

On this particular system, I almost never use the internet, though I’m connected to the LAN, which I access in both directions all the time.

If you were my position with the following choice, what would you do:

a) Roll back to version 1703 with with internet connection but no security updates for ver. 1703 and hope for another way forward despite never being given a choice of feature updates, e.g., some way to use ver. 1709 .iso or ver. 1809 .iso file.

b) Stay with version 1803 and also wait for a good 1809 .iso version?

 

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Try a couple of other things.
Control Panel\Network & Sharing Center\Advanced settings (link on left) – be sure you have network discovery turned (assume Private network) on and if there is a box for “automatic setup of network connected device,” check it.

Control Panel\Network & Sharing Center\Change Adapter settings (link on left) – right click on your adapter, choose properties, uncheck ipv6, click OK.

Restart and see if you have connectivity.

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cmar6

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PK:

Unfortunately, this did not bring back connectivity.

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I am going to give you some links for more info on the connectivity problems people have been reporting. Read through them and see if any of their suggestions work. @BobbyB is particularly helpful. Be sure you read the main blog post as well on the last two

#210049, #205050, This whole topic, and this topic.

 

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cmar6

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“links for more info on the connectivity problems”.  Thanks, PK, I will work on this tomorrow.

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Roll back anytime you find something like this. Then go to 1709 or 1809. I tend to err on the side of caution but in your case I’d try going straight to 1809. If that doesn’t work, stay on 1809 and then figure it out the hard way.

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Mark, thanks for the comment. I am currently on version 1803, not 1809. Do I have to role back to previous version (1703) before I can try 1709 iso; or can I try to go directly to 1709 iso–where does one get that?

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I would roll back first before the 10 day period is up, just to make sure you’re going from a broken situation to possibly sabotage your next move.

You said you reinstalled the driver and I’m surprised that didn’t work. That’s why I’m making this suggestion, the path of least resistance. I’ve had strange audio issues like that before and just uninstalling all of the audio drivers and letting the system pull down (often times default MS drivers) will resolve it. https://i.imgur.com/7nJ8FeG.png In some systems, audio quality degrades so it may not be a satisfactory solution.

You may also want to download your motherboard’s chipset drivers from Intel or AMD. That helps Windows identify which components your system has. No one should really need to do that though, Windows knows what to look for.

But honestly I’m surprised anyone ran into your situation at this point in software history, and I wouldn’t fiddle with it till you’re on 1809 and if it’s still a problem there.

About 1709, that’s what I was using till a few days ago, I wouldn’t bother, it’s almost out of support too and outside of formatting I doubt you can go from 1803 to 1709. You can use the date trick if you roll back to 1703 first. You have a lot of options.

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I rolled back to Windows 10 Pro version 1703 Bld 15063.1387 but this time with no internet connectivity, although I still have the LAN working fine. The only other thing I can think of is to update to version 1709 via with an .iso file but where to get one?

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I believe this one is approved.

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cmar6

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PK, thanks, that site looks like a safe one. I got version 1709 and will try it tomorrow, though I suspect that in doing update to ver. 1803, something was changed in BIOS.

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OK, so following Woody’s lead of deciding to upgrade his production computers to 1803, I bit the proverbial bullet this past weekend and upgraded my three computers, a five-year-old Gateway DX4870-UR3D desktop, a six-year-old Dell Inspiron i17RN-4235BK laptop, and a two-year-old HP Pavilion x360 Convertible m1-u001dx 2-in-1, to 1803 also. All three were still on 1607, since I never saw any reason whatsoever to upgrade. Still don’t, since no newer version offers anything that’s worth having that I don’t already have with 1607 … uh, make that XP … but at some point I guess we all must move on if for no other reason than security. So, I did.

I followed Woody’s advice and grabbed an iso of 1803 before MS yanked it, PKCano’s step-by-step instructions for upgrading from an iso, and ch100’s suggestion to run setup.exe from the command-line as administrator and use a few switches to enforce as much as possible the retention of the older settings or not creating an additional recovery partition. Thank you very, very much, guys, for your knowledge and help.

The upgrade process itself was without doubt the best I’ve ever had, on all three computers. Smooth as silk. Unless MS changes it’s ways, I’ll definitely upgrade this same way in a couple of years.

I haven’t had time to give each computer a good workout yet to see exactly how things stand, but during the regular after-install checkup/cleanup/setup, I did catch a few things that didn’t go right or was changed on all three computers in the very same ways: They are much slower booting up. Much, much slower. I can live with that, though, since at almost 76 years old, I’m not in all that big of a hurry. I’ve also had to re-install one older program, so far, that didn’t survive the upgrades in one piece. I have another that is very unstable. Several changes were made that I had set by using Ultimate Windows Tweaker. I upgraded UWT to the latest version and spent quite some time checking settings and making desired changes on the laptop, then did an export to a USB stick and imported the ini file to each of the other two computers. Done! One thing you really need to know, though, right off the bat, is that the upgrade turns System Restore OFF. So turning it back ON is one of the first things you’ll need to do.

So, now I’m back on a supported version of WIN 10 … and that puts me back on the monthly Cumulative Updates treadmill.

Lord help me!

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I used an .iso file to update to Windows 10 Pro, ver. 1709, Build 16299.15. Since I still don’t have internet access (though do have networking on LAN through Ethernet), is there any way to use wifi to connect to internet. I have an iPad in same room as this PC and it connects to internet through a router downstairs. But I don’t see any wifi button in Taskbar of ver. 1709 nor on the Network & Internet Status menu.

Perhaps I need to install a wifi adapter in the system? Device Manager shows 2 “Intel I350 Gigbit Network Connection & 1 WAN Miniport (SSTP). Amazon lists USB external Wifi adapters for PC. That solution seems too good to be true. Could this really work?

Still, if I have good a good Ethernet LAN network with no internet, then perhaps another hardware solution cannot solve a Windows problem?

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One weird thing is that BIOS says that the system’s IPv4 address ends in “5” but Windows 10 says it ends in “9”.

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Problem is solved. When I did the first update to ver. 1803, Windows caused the router to block the system,. Went into router softer and unblocked and now have internet connectivity. Thanks to all the experts who pushed me along. With Windows problems, you have to try everything and then keep trying: isn’t that fun?

So now I have ver. 1709. What are best Settings/Windows Update to get it to update soon to latest security update for version 1709?

And thanks to all you experts and especially PK!

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+ In Windows Updates\Advanced set Semi-Annual Channel, delay Feature updates =365, delay quality updates = 0, no pause.
+ In Group Policy (gpedit) Windows Components\Windows Update\Configure Automatic Updates = Enabled, value 2 (notify download\install.
+ Run wushowhide hide KB4023057 and any microcode patches.
+ Clear the Windows Update cache and wait for the computer to run a scan without clicking “check for updates”. It may take a day. Be sure what you hid is not listed.
+ You will need the Cumulative Update, Flash Player Update, MSRT, Defender update, Office if you have it.

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” Run wushowhide hide microcode patches.”

What are microcode patches: Silverlight and Visual C++ ?

+” Clear the Windows Update cache and wait for the computer to run a scan without clicking “check for updates”. It may take a day. Be sure what you hid is not listed.”

By “run a scan”, you mean Windows does this without intervention by me?

I will be getting ver. 1709  11/2018 cumulative update but what about all the other ver. 1709 updates (except 4023057)?

 

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