Criteria for wireless router?

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I’m about to buy my first wireless router.

They seem cheap enough that I might as well buy the fastest / best.

1 What do I need to look for
–if I just want to be able to use my notebook computer and iPod Touch (one floor lower than the main computer)/
–if I also want to stream movies to a TV?

2 What would additional hardware I need to stream to a (new, but not Internet-enabled) TV?

3 Local stores have Sitecom and Linksys … is one of them more reliable?

Thanks!

Joel (in the Netherlands)

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Anything that is current that has a reasonable warranty is the one to buy.
You will need wireless security.

cheers, Paul

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Local stores have Sitecom and Linksys … is one of them more reliable?
Joel (in the Netherlands)

Joel,

I’ve never heard of Sitecom but I’ve been using Linksys {a Cisco division} for years with excellent results.

May the Forces of good computing be with you!

RG

PowerShell & VBA Rule!
Computer Specs

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I think for the streaming video to TV you’ll need (or maybe want) a dual band with a 5GHz radio. My new Netgear has an option on the 5G side that sends video on that freq. I haven’t done anything with this yet but it seems like that would be a good option to have.

Also agree that Linksys is good, I’ve also had excellent results from Netgear, and you NEED to set security once your system is going.

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If you are going with dual band and want to use both bands at the same time, be sure that the unit actually has two radios. Most allow one band or the other, not both at the same time. If you are in an area that has a lot of wifi and need to cover only a small area such as a single apartment in a large building, go with 5ghz. If you want range and do not have a high density of existing wifi, go with 2.4ghz. The lower frequency does a much better job of penetrating walls in a non line of sight situation. The advantage of the higher freq is that it is outside of the range of the most commonly used frequencies and therefore less likely to have interference and in true line of site situations may have slightly more range.

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The brands readily available here (Netherlands) are Apple, Linksys, Sitecom and Asus.

Top of the line Linksys seems to be WRT610n dualband, but it got very mixed reviews on CNet compared to the Apple Aiport Extreme.

The Apple may not be ideal for use in a PC environment, but the easy setup and adequate features are seductive.

Any comments?

Joel

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Top of the line Linksys seems to be WRT610n dualband, but it got very mixed reviews on CNet
Joel

I think everything gets mixed reviews on CNet. So did my Netgear.

I agree with Paul. If it fits your needs I would go with the Linksys with a default install, then add security after all is up and running. I also change the default IP address of the router, but at the least change the default admin password using strong, then set WPA or WPA2 if your equipment supports it, again with a stong PW. I also set preapproval by MAC address.

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The brands readily available here (Netherlands) are Apple, Linksys, Sitecom and Asus.

Top of the line Linksys seems to be WRT610n dualband, but it got very mixed reviews on CNet compared to the Apple Aiport Extreme.

The Apple may not be ideal for use in a PC environment, but the easy setup and adequate features are seductive.

Any comments?

Joel

I actually own this wireless router and have mixed success with it. We have to recycle power several times per week to connect with our bluetooth compatible laptops. Connection seems relatively fast. Has a good hardware firewall. I just wish we did not have to reboot the router so often.

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All routers should be easy to set up. Start with no security and get a connection, then set a good password and secure your network. If it’s very easy it is probably insecure.

cheers, Paul

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MAC filtering is pointless and can be bypassed in 20 minutes. Stick with WPA2 and you won’t be bothered by rogues.

cheers, Paul

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MAC filtering is pointless and can be bypassed in 20 minutes.

cheers, Paul

I will be the first to admit I am way out of expert league on this stuff, but this doesn’t seem logical. If I create a list that tells the router to only give access to hardware with a preassigned MAC address, that isn’t secure? Sure, if you had a gazillion bucks worth of spy equipment in your mobile van maybe not, but it sure seems like that would be tough to get around.

Could you expand on your point please?

Phil

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I think everything gets mixed reviews on CNet. So did my Netgear.

I think routers in particular get mixed reviews because people that do not understand networking at all assume that the router is the problem when something doesn’t work……..

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because a packet sniffer can read the mac that is being used by the client that is connected and it is very easy to spoof that mac address on any other client the hacker may wish to connect to the network. WPA2 is all the protection you are likely to need.

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I just installed the Sitecom WL-585 wireless modem/router a few days ago to replace my ageing D Link modem and router. Installation was very easy (including WPA2 security) despite the isntructions not being very clear. I can take advantage of the built-in wireless N on my recent HP laptop and I connected all other devices (including Soundbridge and mobile phone) without any hassle. Signal is much stronger all around the house and download speeds have improved quite considerably. Only downsides are non 5 Ghz and no fast Ethernet ports although that’s not a big issue for me.

HTH

Graham

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I used a Netgear router for a long time but found, in my environment of a home/office, that the wireless reception was not as good as I expected. Buying a Draytek Vigor 2710n seems to have solved the reception situation. Since the beginning of May 2010 I have only re-booted this router twice. I’m impressed with it.

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I’d like to add this re wireless protection:
1. Yes, all things can be broken into, even banks, government computer network …
2. If you can beat ‘easy’ protections, you are something more than ordinary. A pro, maybe.
3. An unlocked car can be stolen by non pros, teens.
4. On the other hand, a locked car can be broken into in mere seconds.
5. A pro auto alarm system does not protect your car from being stolen, 100,000% sure about that.
What works? This: Lock your car is enough. 98-99% effective.
My conclusion on wireless protection:
(Disclaimer: do it at your own risk)
1. Yes, if your devices allow it, do not broadcast SSID. This stops most drive-by connections,
and keeps your cheap neighbor(s) from having a free ride.
2. Yes, use MAC address filtering. That stops further thief-wannabe’s and ‘non-pro’ teens, with little effort and overhead.
3. Yes, even the old WEP protection helps. It further helps against non-pro break-ins.
Yes, it is less on slowing down network speed.
4. Yes, use WPA or WPA2 if you want even better protection.
It is more secure but the price you pay is slowing down speed. (Meaning: get a faster router to compensate).

If you own and run a bank from home, don’t just buy a consumer grade wireless router. You hire a pro.
If you do not own or run a bank from home, why are you so paranoid to protecting against pros? Will it succeed?
Will a 1-inch thick steel door help against home break-in? Not against pros.
Will the cost justifies the steel door against common thieves?
Can a tank protect against an army? … It sure does against a knife waving mad man. But so is your ordinary front door.

If you have a professional thief targeting you, would all of the above wireless protection schemes protect you?

Here is a simple great advice from a friend of mine:
Use a cheap mechanical timer (better, a digital one) to auto turn off the router at late night, and back on automatically.
1. Break-in is less likely: half of the day the router is powered off.
2. Robust networking too: the router reboots daily! Maybe even having a new IP address daily.
3. If your cable modem can also recover after power-off-on, put it under the timer too.
That way, even the cable modem reboots daily. Bonus: daily new IP address. Tough for people tracking you by IP address.
Tip:
If you use VOIP as phone system, put the VOIP adapter under the timer as well. That way, the adapter gets reboot daily.
I use VOIP phone. Here is my experience:
Once a while (a few months interval to 6 months), I have to power-off-on to reboot the adapter.
(Just when you try making a phone call and the adapter is crashed! Pain in the butt.)
So, this auto daily reboot really helps.

Remember, almost all devices today are tiny computers running a small program.
All non-pro computers need reboot once a while.

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Thanks to all who have responded.

My critical question at this point is: can WPA2 be enabled using the Apple Airport Extreme with a Windows PC?

CNet review said that one could NOT use WPA2 encryption.

Apple says:

Note:
WPA security is available only to AirPort Extreme wireless devices; AirPort and
AirPort Extreme clients using Mac OS X 10.3 or later and AirPort 3.3 or later; and to
non-Apple clients using other 802.11 wireless adapters that support WPA. WPA2
security requires firmware version 5.6 or later for an AirPort Extreme Base Station,
firmware version 6.2 or later an AirPort Express, firmware version 7.3 or later for a Time
Capsule, and a Macintosh computer with an AirPort Extreme wireless card using AirPort
4.2 or later. If your computer uses Windows XP or Windows Vista, check the
documentation that came with your computer to see if your computer supports WPA2.

I’ve tried several times to parse this paragraph … I think it means the answer is yes (provided the computer supports WPA2), but I’m wondering if there’s anyone out there who has activated WPA or WPA2 encryption using the AirPort Extreme with a Windows PC.

Thanks.

J

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WPA/2 support must be provided by both your OS and your router. There is no need to use the same brand of router / wireless cards as the WPA spec is independent.
The Apple blurb says that you need a late model Airport router and support for WPA/2 on your PC.
If you have Windows XP SP3 you will be OK.

cheers, Paul

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If you have a 802.11n wireless card, then you want an “n” router. If like my laptop you have only 802.11b/g then a wireless g router will do just fine. It should be able to use wpa2 PSKsecurity and should be set for AES which is 128-bit encryption and the only technique that is truly secure. If you’re running Windows XP a patch or Service Pack 3 is required because XP does not inherently support AES.

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Apologies if this post is not in the correct place.
I am a complete newbie in this area.
I am using WinXP Pro (SP3).
I am finally able to contemplate upgrading from dial-up to mobile broadband (for home use only – single computer).
I visited the local telecom outlet and had a USB model recommended to me.
At the moment it is more convenient for me to go the mobile (WiFi) route otherwise there will be new and/or relocated power and phone outlets required in my rented premises.
When I asked the sales person if a router was required, he replied: “No, because using this unit is just the same as using a cell phone”.
I suspect this answer is not correct but don’t know enough to say why.
I would really appreciate some help on this.
Thanks in advance.

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I do not use one of these at the moment, but they are meant to take your PC (generally a laptop) with you away from your home router. They do not need a router, but do need a subscription to a cellular phone supplier. In my area, my ISP offers a mobile WiFi option for around $20 per month in addition to my normal monthly fees. Also, here in the states, most cellular phone providers have these options as well. Again, because we do not travel a lot yet, we have not used these options.

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Thank you Ted for your prompt reply.

I neglected to mention in my ignorance that the company offering the USB device is my existing land-line supplier, so apart from the initial cost of the device, the ongoing charge will be about $A20 per month over and above my existing account.

This confirms your advice.

The USB unit will be a “home only” device; it won’t be used (at least in the short-term) for travelling.

It will be used primarily as a matter of convenience.

I could have asked the same supplier for a ADSL 2+ upgrade over the existing copper network, but that would have meant some necessary and expensive changes to household power and phone outlets – something which my landlord is not keen on.

I am greatly relieved to hear that these devices do not need a router.

Thank you again Ted, I greatly appreciate your assistance

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No problem, glad my limited wisdom on this subject could help with your question. Thanks for the Thanks. In a couple years when I can finally retire I plan on using one of these devices as my wife and I plan on doing some traveling, but I could not live without my PC.

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I recently purchased an Apple Airport Extreme router to use in my home network, which has a mix of Windows 7, XP and Mac OSX Snow Leopard. It did support WPA2, and it worked quite well.

However, I returned it when I found out it did not offer Stateful Packet Inspection (SPI). An SPI equipped firewall can tell if an incoming packet was unsolicited and if so, assumes it to be unwanted and drops it. On the other hand, if it arrived in response to a request from the local network, the packet will be allowed through.

I exchanged the Airport Extreme for a Linksys E2000, and saved several dollars as well.

Most consumer routers support SPI. But it is best to check specific specs on models in which you are interested. An extra layer of protection is always welcome.

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My Linksys e4200 does as well. I suspect most Linksys routers do. It would be nice to hear from some others if their other manufacturer routers do as well.

By the way Gerald, does the Linksys work with your Mac as well?

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My Linksys e4200 does as well. I suspect most Linksys routers do. It would be nice to hear from some others if their other manufacturer routers do as well.

By the way Gerald, does the Linksys work with your Mac as well?

Yep, the Linksys E2000 works just fine with Macs. Routers are basically OS independent. Naturally, many sales people will try to sell an Apple Airport Extreme to customers that buy a Mac, but any good quality router will work just fine. I was surprised that a router costing $179.99 (Airport) did not come with SPI.

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Here’s a nice article on routers:
Which router should I buy .

Jerry

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