Computer Died

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My girlfriends Win 7 Pro x64 computer.
Today 10/27/2014, The video on the monitor started extreme jittering and I tried everything to just shut down the computer ( the curser was frozen ). I tried ctrl-alt-del etc. and nothing worked.
I finally hit the reset button and then the computer went into a continuous loop of trying to boot ( nothing showed on the monitor, no UEFI, nothing but black ).
All of the lights and fans would run but it kept trying to reboot over and over.
I had made an external backup HDD for her computer so I tried that and the same sequence of events happened.
I noticed that when I pressed the power button the HDD activity light comes on once and then doesn’t come on any more during the reboot loop.
Now the HDD activity light doesn’t come on at all when you press the power button but all the rest of the lights and fans come on
and nothing comes up on the monitor. The computer just runs and doesn’t even go into the reboot loop.
I’m wondering if the MotherBoard or CPU has a problem?

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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Try new hard drive
I have use this ever time I a bad CPU
FYI my CPU has parts from the 1990’s still work as I type
I am on my second hard drive in five years

Dave

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BTW I emailed sellers tech support but will have to wait for an answer.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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Sure does sound like that. How old is it? I take it it’s a desktop tower PC not, a laptop. What make? Does the HDD, still, spin? Certainly, sounds like a hardware issue. Get back to me & will talk/think further.

Cheers,
Drew

Desktop PC built by a reseller 2/14/2014. HDD activity light blinks once and no more, all fans, lights, etc. run. I tried a memory diagnostic test ( pull all sticks, boot and there are some faint beeps. Try each memory stick one at a time with a reboot each time ), nothing changes so I assume it’s not the memory.

Try new hard drive
I have use this ever time I a bad CPU
FYI my CPU has parts from the 1990’s still work as I type
I am on my second hard drive in five years

Dave, I put in another HDD ( an external backup ) and it made no difference.

Conclusion so far is not memory and not HDD.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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I remove the only one first and is a internal work great after reinstalling the Windows
Then I the old hard drive as a slave

Desktop PC built by a reseller 2/14/2014. HDD activity light blinks once and no more, all fans, lights, etc. run. I tried a memory diagnostic test ( pull all sticks, boot and there are some faint beeps. Try each memory stick one at a time with a reboot each time ), nothing changes so I assume it’s not the memory.

Dave, I put in another HDD ( an external backup ) and it made no difference.

Conclusion so far is not memory and not HDD.

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lumpy95
If you have access to a known good power supply I would try that in the simplest configuration possible.(NO HDD just memory and CPU). See if then you can at least make it to UEFI/BIOS.

Just because you don't know where you are going doesn't mean any road will get you there.

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I assume the PS is good since everything else works. But unplugging the HDD’S and booting would probably be a good idea.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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Yes
I have use this for 20+ years I have also had CD dives go out and just unplug and ever thing work again.

good luck
Dave

I assume the PS is good since everything else works. But unplugging the HDD’S and booting would probably be a good idea.

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Too bad no P/S tester available to you. I have had occasions where they seem good but, aren’t (fully). But, from the further info you have provided sounds like a failed M/B…. which should be covered under warranty considering how recently machine was built.

Cheers,
Drew

Yeah, I don’t have a tester.
Tech support got back to me about the memory diagnostic test not showing any difference and said that since the video was jittery before the non booting problem, and since it is onboard video, that they suspect that it could still be a memory problem ( that’s their #1 guess ) OR the CPU has failed.
They want me to run the CLRTC on the MB twice with 1 stick of memory each time.
I guess the best thing to do is try unplugging the HDDs and trying a bootup first, then if that fails, go to the CLRTC tests.
Does that sound like a good plan?

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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Sure but… as I just now think about what you say about the video display, have you considered that the GPU could be the component @ fault?

Cheers,
Drew

Actually I’m thinking that either the I/O panel HDMI video connection or the CPU itself has taken a dump.
My reasoning is this: It all started with the video jittering extremely bad, on reboot ( even now ) I can see that the optical drives go through the post routine and I get 1 flash from the HDD activity light and all fans and lights are working. NOTHING shows up on the Monitor. The Monitor works because when I first turn it on, it shows the manufacturer, etc., so it’s not getting a signal from the computer in my view.
This is onboard video from an intel i5-4570, on an ASUS H87-Plus MB
I unplugged the HDDs and tried booting with all the same results as before. I ran CLRTC tests that they wanted ( 1 stick of RAM with each test ) and no change.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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Actually I’m thinking that either the I/O panel HDMI video connection or the CPU itself has taken a dump…

Provided the CPU was installed correctly when the system was built, the CPU is unlikely to be the problem (CPU failure is actually quite rare).

According to the ASUS specs for the H87-Plus motherboard, it has a DVI-D monitor output; have you tried it with a DVI cable? (the monitor package should have included a DVI cable).

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Actually, wait a minute… can you get into the BIOS? If not, probably IS the M/B causing the problem.

Nope, can’t get to the BIOS, just a black screen.
I have a feeling that the outfit we are dealing with is going to go one step at a time, starting with memory modules through the mail, so my girlfriend may be without a computer for some time and I will be catching hell from her for quite some time :flee:

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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According to the ASUS specs for the H87-Plus motherboard, it has a DVI-D monitor output; have you tried it with a DVI cable?

Yup, but I didn’t have much hope because the HDD activity light only blinks once at bootup so it tells me that it’s just checking at POST and then there’s nothing after that.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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Yup, but I didn’t have much hope because the HDD activity light only blinks once at bootup so it tells me that it’s just checking at POST and then there’s nothing after that.

“The HDD activity light only blinks once at bootup…” means only that the HDD has been powered on.

When the motherboard is powered on the BIOS loads. The BIOS then runs POST, during which the various hardware components are “initialised”. One of the very first components to be initialised is the VGA (“Video Graphics Adapter” AKA display); if the VGA returns an error code to the BIOS (or there is a communication problem between the BIOS and the VGA) then POST halts (blank screen but fans running and no other activity).

Try resetting the BIOS – see my #6 post at Blown Motherboard.

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Coochin
In the Blown Motherboard post you warn against BIOS procedure on UEFI which is what is on the computer. I did do CLRTC on the MB without any memory sticks, I could hear some Reallllly faint beeps, but it didn’t change anything.
So according to your description, the BIOS must start POST then quit ( even though I can’t see the BIOS screen ).
I think that is another indication that the jittery video is a big clue. I think the MB died but it could also be a PS issue.
Anyway, at this point I’m going to get a new MB, CPU, and Memory ( Hopefully the seller will come through ). If that doesn’t fix it, the Power Supply is next. So getting those parts will take a while.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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Coochin
In the Blown Motherboard post you warn against BIOS procedure on UEFI which is what is on the computer. I did do CLRTC on the MB without any memory sticks, I could hear some Reallllly faint beeps, but it didn’t change anything.
So according to your description, the BIOS must start POST then quit ( even though I can’t see the BIOS screen ).
I think that is another indication that the jittery video is a big clue. I think the MB died but it could also be a PS issue.
Anyway, at this point I’m going to get a new MB, CPU, and Memory ( Hopefully the seller will come through ). If that doesn’t fix it, the Power Supply is next. So getting those parts will take a while.

Since I added the warning about UEFI to my #6 post at Blown Motherboard I have successfully used the “reset” procedure on a Win8.1 UEFI desktop motherboard. I have edited that #6 post accordingly.

It is very unlikely the CPU is faulty (CPU failure is *very* rare). RAM (“memory”) failure is fairly common, but faulty PSU outputs are far more common, more so with cheap units (so that if I open a desktop case the first thing I do is test the PSU – PSU testers are quite cheap, e.g.: EZ Power Supply Tester with Voltage LCD Display; I have been using one of these “EZ” testers for about six years and have used it at least hundreds of times).

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Yeah a PSU tester is probably a good idea, thanks for the link. I may have to wait for that though because the seller is going to assemble duplicate new MB, CPU, and memory for a swap-out. I have to pay for the components up front and get the money refunded when they get the old parts back. If that doesn’t fix it then I’m thinking PSU ( Which would be another exchange ).
The PSU is a Corsair CX500 and I have always had good luck with Corsair PSU’s but you never know.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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…The PSU is a Corsair CX500 and I have always had good luck with Corsair PSU’s but you never know.

I haven’t seen a lot of Corsair PSUs but of the ones I have tested I can’t recall any that had failed. I have tested many Thermaltake, Coolermaster, Vantec, and Antec PSUs 430W and higher, and the few that had failed had failed immediately following serious “power events” (power surges caused by lightening strikes, etc.)

Most failed PSUs I have replaced have been cheap-model Codegen, Lite-on, FSP, Bestec, and a few other “economy” brands/models.

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I haven’t seen a lot of Corsair PSUs but of the ones I have tested I can’t recall any that had failed. I have tested many Thermaltake, Coolermaster, Vantec, and Antec PSUs 430W and higher, and the few that had failed had failed immediately following serious “power events” (power surges caused by lightening strikes, etc.)

Most failed PSUs I have replaced have been cheap-model Codegen, Lite-on, FSP, Bestec, and a few other “economy” brands/models.

I’ve never had a Corsair PS fail and I have used them for quite a few years. ( knock on wood )

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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I ordered a PSU tester today from amazon http://www.amazon.com/Sanhattan-Products-Digital-Supply-Tester/dp/B0016MHQA8/ref=sr_1_17?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1414680219&sr=1-17&keywords=power+supply+tester
It cost a little more than the one you posted Coochin but the reviews were excellent. I’ll probably receive it long before I receive the MB combo.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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This is great news. Terrific you were able to come to such an arrangement. Anxious to have an update after you have done the R&R w/ the new parts.

Also, having a P/W testis always cool. Lord knows as an IT pro I have carried one around w/ me forever.

I, still, feel the issue is rooted in the integrated M/B & should be corrected w/ the new parts. Look forward to hearing more on this.

Cheers,
Drew

I’m still waiting for confirmation that they are going to do the exchange, I was hoping for a call today but it never materialized so far and I’m sure they are closed by now. Could be that they will have to track down some parts to match these.
The PSU tester will be here before the parts make it.
As you say Drew, I’m thinking that the MB failed also since the video went crazy before things died.
I’ve never used a PSU tester, do I need to be aware of anything dangerous to the computer?

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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What about power going to drives, fans, etc. when I plug in the PS even though the 24 pin MB plug is in the tester?

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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What about power going to drives, fans, etc. when I plug in the PS even though the 24 pin MB plug is in the tester?

Most of the time “power going to drives, fans, etc.” doesn’t matter, in fact it is probably better to leave those connected.

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…undo the big, multi-pin connector from the M/B that comes from the P/S… & now, attach it to the tester…

Most recent (past 10+ years or so) motherboards also have a second 4-pin, sometimes 8-pin, power connector, usually somewhere on the opposite side of the CPU from the RAM slots. This should also be connected to the tester.

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Most recent (past 10+ years or so) motherboards also have a second 4-pin, sometimes 8-pin, power connector, usually somewhere on the opposite side of the CPU from the RAM slots. This should also be connected to the tester.

Yeah I see an 8 pin EATX 12 v connection in the upper left corner. So that should be connected at the same time as the 24 pin MB connection? (Before plugging in the PS)

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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Yeah I see an 8 pin EATX 12 v connection in the upper left corner. So that should be connected at the same time as the 24 pin MB connection?…

Correct.

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Usually the 4-pin looks, @ a glance, like it is part of the big, block connector, looks like one piece but, they are, actually, two separate pieces. They are usually right against each other, in a row…

Drew,

If you look more closely at lumpy95’s #32 post and my #31 post you should understand we were not discussing the 20/24 connector as you seem to have assumed.

The 4-pin connector I was referring to is on the opposite side of most motherboards (but some more recent motherboards have an 8-pin socket there, which seems to be the case from lumpy95’s #32 post.

I have attached a photo of the “guts” of an old XP PC which has a fairly typical motherboard layout:
38284-P5S800-VM

Some older motherboards had a 20-pin power socket, which is why many PSUs have the “attachable” 4-pin connector alongside the 20-pin connector. Most recent motherboards use all 24 pins for this connection.

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Here are the connections coochin is talking about.38287-20141029_151913
The 8 pin is upper left and 24 pin to the right.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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Here are the connections coochin is talking about…The 8 pin is upper left and 24 pin to the right.

Yep! You got it right lumpy95.

Looks like an MSI motherboard, but could be ASRock (my supplier has pretty-much given up on MSI; too many warranty claims).

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Yep! You got it right lumpy95.

Looks like an MSI motherboard, but could be ASRock (my supplier has pretty-much given up on MSI; too many warranty claims).

ASUS H87-Plus

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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All this discussion about a ps tester is well and good for a quick test but a device like that does not test power quality: just because it tests good on this device does NOT mean the ps is good. If it tests bad I’ll go with bad. Test the ps under load peripherals connected, don’t make it easy on the ps
My personal preference would be a decent cheap multi-meter if you have a steady hand.
Swaptronics would be best :wub: :coffeetime:

Just because you don't know where you are going doesn't mean any road will get you there.

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All this discussion about a ps tester is well and good for a quick test but a device like that does not test power quality: just because it tests good on this device does NOT mean the ps is good. If it tests bad I’ll go with bad. Test the ps under load peripherals connected, don’t make it easy on the ps
My personal preference would be a decent cheap multi-meter if you have a steady hand.
Swaptronics would be best :wub: :coffeetime:

Actually, wavy, I do happen to have a very good-quality multimeter and often use it to test various other computer components’ voltages or other similar values.

As for “…a device like that does not test power quality…” is quite mistaken; the whole point of using a simple PSU tester is to test power quality.

And “…just because it tests good on this device does NOT mean the ps is good…” I don’t dispute. There have been some few occasions when I have tested a PSU with my “EZ” tester when it later turned out that the PSU was faulty after all. I use the “EZ” tester because it is a quick and reasonably accurate test of a PSU. If I were to fiddle-faddle around with a multimeter in the same circumstance spending a considerable amount of extra time the customer is likely (and understandably) to become upset as to wasted time.

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Sorry, looks like I stirred things up a bit with my questions and lack of knowledge.
1- As to the PS tester, I wouldn’t know how to use or what to test with a multimeter ( although I have one for testing battery’s LOL ).
2- Bad news from the reseller on a quick replacement of parts. They now want the computer to be shipped at our expense to them so they can remove and RMA the parts to the manufacturers because they couldn’t find any replacement parts online!
I found ALL the replacement parts online in 20 mins., the bad part is that we would be out the $500.00 for the parts ourselves. So much for support from ComputerLX. BUMMER
I’ll let my girlfriend make the decision since it is her computer.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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…Bad news from the reseller on a quick replacement of parts. They now want the computer to be shipped at our expense to them so they can remove and RMA the parts to the manufacturers because they couldn’t find any replacement parts online!…

(a) “…They now want the computer to be shipped at our expense to them…” Okay, but if they find that any faulty part (most likely motherboard) caused the problem then they should (at very least) reimburse you any shipping charges.

(b) “…they couldn’t find any replacement parts online…” rubbish! Warranty claims have nothing to do with “replacement parts online” or anything other apart from the question of whether the part was faulty or not.

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(a) “…They now want the computer to be shipped at our expense to them…” Okay, but if they find that any faulty part (most likely motherboard) caused the problem then they should (at very least) reimburse you any shipping charges.

(b) “…they couldn’t find any replacement parts online…” rubbish! Warranty claims have nothing to do with “replacement parts online” or anything other apart from the question of whether the part was faulty or not.

(A) No, they only pay return shipping
(B) Rubbish is a good word for it.
(C) I’m deciding whether to recommend to my girlfriend that we just order the darn MB for $121.00 and some ARCTIC MX-2 thermal paste and see if it’s the MB. If it’s the CPU or memory, we can order those after.
My problem is that I have no way to test the MB or CPU without new components. This process would be expensive but a heck of a lot faster than waiting on computerLX to go through their lengthy process.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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Quick and dirty may be m middle name but my suggestion given this unfortunate turn… If you buy a new mb and chose wrong you have a spare mb whooptydo!! If you buy a new PS and you chose wrong you have a PS which likely will be a good test device (swapatronics style) for a decade. Not so w/ a MB. And a very good 750 W PS $80 range.
Its a triage question.
How much was the original system cost ? New systems of the low end variety seem cheap these days.

Just because you don't know where you are going doesn't mean any road will get you there.

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Thanks for the advice wavy but that’s why they give a MB a model number. ASUS H87-Plus.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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Thanks for the advice wavy but that’s why they give a MB a model number.

was just rereading the thread and I just realize what you meant here. I see that what I said was misconstrued. I was NOT saying you might buy the wrong MB or PS I meant the choice to buy either a MB OR a PS.

Given the voltages are there and you still can not reach the BIOS screen going w/ the bad MB theory seems the best option.
good luck

Just because you don't know where you are going doesn't mean any road will get you there.

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was just rereading the thread and I just realize what you meant here. I see that what I said was misconstrued. I was NOT saying you might buy the wrong MB or PS I meant the choice to buy either a MB OR a PS.

Given the voltages are there and you still can not reach the BIOS screen going w/ the bad MB theory seems the best option.
good luck

Thanks, I’ll need it

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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Somebody is feeding you BS and, REAALY, bad/negligent, customer service…

I agree with Drew.

Your PC should be fully covered under warranty since as I understand from your OP you obtained it only early this year. Any such warranty should cover any shipping charges and should not result in any charge to you. If you continue to have trouble with the supplier re warranty then I suggest you should contact the relevant government department for your jurisdiction (California?).

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As I said, they will do the warranty work BUT it would take them at least 3 weeks and we pay for shipping one way. Process= we ship, they disassemble in 2 or 3 days, they send parts to manufacturers, new parts return, they take their time reassembling and ship back.
So I ordered a MB last night from CDW, it was the only place I could find one other than amazon which has the MBs but they have to ship from Japan which takes a month to a month and a half.
Hopefully I am up to the task of replacing the MB. If it’s the CPU I will have to disassemble the fan and CPU again.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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Do not use ‘big box’ chain stores.

I am not a fan either but if he had bought it from one he could just return the d*&*m thing.
lumpy95 best of luck w/ all this.
I think I will start a new thread on ps testers to get some cloud sourcing on this…

Just because you don't know where you are going doesn't mean any road will get you there.

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Not sure if I should post this in a new thread or not but I’ll try this one since it’s related.
My girlfriends computer is win 7 Pro 64bit and I kept it backed up with a USB 3.0 external drive. I wanted to get a file off of the USB 3 drive so I tried to hook it up to my old win 7 Pro 32bit computer which only has USB 2.0. I used the USB 3 cable that came with the external drive which is supposed to be compatible with USB 2.
The external drive does NOT show up in windows explorer but if I go to computer management/disk manager it shows the drive fine there.
Why doesn’t it show up in windows explorer?

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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Not sure if I should post this in a new thread or not but I’ll try this one since it’s related.
My girlfriends computer is win 7 Pro 64bit and I kept it backed up with a USB 3.0 external drive. I wanted to get a file off of the USB 3 drive so I tried to hook it up to my old win 7 Pro 32bit computer which only has USB 2.0. I used the USB 3 cable that came with the external drive which is supposed to be compatible with USB 2.
The external drive does NOT show up in windows explorer but if I go to computer management/disk manager it shows the drive fine there.
Why doesn’t it show up in windows explorer?

In Computer management does it show a drive letter? If not right click the drive and choose change drive letter and choose one from the drop down list.

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In Computer management does it show a drive letter? If not right click the drive and choose change drive letter and choose one from the drop down list.

Yes it shows drive letter S in disk management and it shows healthy etc. just like the other drives.

Might need to ‘initiate’ it or whatever the term is, in Disc Mg’t to get it to show in This PC. Rt Clk on it in Disc Mg’t, see what options are offered.

Hmmm, don’t remember seeing that option before but I’ll look later.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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I don’t know if it makes any difference or not but the drives on the computer are PATA and the external drive is SATA6.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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My Bad, I got it figured out. I had called the drive Bckup S but didn’t notice that there was no Drive letter S in parenthesis.
I assigned the drive letter and there it was.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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There is a selection to “Mark Partition as Active”. What happens if I click on that?

“Mark Partition as Active” is for making partitions that contain an operating system bootable. It won’t help the problem you are having, and could make matters worse.

At this stage you should try the USB HDD on another computer, if possible.

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”Mark Partition as Active” is for making partitions that contain an operating system bootable. It won’t help the problem you are having, and could make matters worse.

At this stage you should try the USB HDD on another computer, if possible.

Sorry coochin, I must have posted a half a second before you that I got it.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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My Bad, I got it figured out. I had called the drive Bckup S but didn’t notice that there was no Drive letter S in parenthesis.
I assigned the drive letter and there it was.

Normally Windows should assign a drive letter automatically when the drive is connected. Weird that you had to do it manually.

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Normally Windows should assign a drive letter automatically when the drive is connected. Weird that you had to do it manually.

Yeah that’s what I thought too but evidently not. Oh well it worked out.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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Results from PS tester w/ 24 pin & 8 pin connections plugged in:
38333-20141101_185313

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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Results from PS tester w/ 24 pin & 8 pin connections plugged in…

Those readings are all good (pretty much what I expect to see whenever I test a decent PSU).

In your #50 post you stated you ordered a motherboard online. If you talk with your supplier they might (read “should”) let you return just the motherboard for warranty.

But there are a couple of catches:
(a) You would need to package the motherboard to avoid damage during shipping (plastic “bubble-wrap” or wrap in corrugated cardboard and in a suitable carton), and
(b) Make sure the CPU slot is “capped” (your supplier should be able to mail you one of these caps). See below scan of an Intel CPU slot cap:
38337-CPU_cap

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Yes, well, throughout all of this I have not thought the P/S was @ fault. Slight possibility, maybe, but, very unlikely.

Cheers,
Drew

I agree but it’s nice to know that the PS is ok. Still think it’s the MB.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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In your #50 post you stated you ordered a motherboard online. If you talk with your supplier they might (read “should”) let you return just the motherboard for warranty

I’m not sure they are going to do ANYTHING for me. They won’t get my email til Monday and they may not be very happy with me after reading it. Getting warranty on this board would basically get another replacement board.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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Update:
The seller relented and my girlfriend shipped the computer back, it should be there next week sometime. Will have to wait and see how things work out but she will be without a computer for a month at my best guess.
I cancelled the MB order that I placed which was on back order anyway, so it would have been awhile before we could receive it.
Thanks for all the help and reply’s and I will update if anything changes and I need more help.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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Well, I have a MAJOR MYSTERY now!!
The seller got the computer back on the 11th. The tech called me today and said that he replaced the CPU fan ( which was running fine before ) and another fan that had died and the computer booted right up.
He said that he did a BIOS update and that the computer has been running ever since he received it :blink:
He said he will run a few more test’s and ship it back tomorrow. I was shocked to say the least that the computer would NOT boot here and he said it booted up there.
I just don’t get it????????
Here: Extremely jittery video and locked up, turned off PS button to shut it down, tried booting numerous times and all fans ran and looked like it went through POST but only 1 blink of HDD activity light and nothing would display. The monitor showed it’s manufacturing info when turned on so I doubt it’s a bad monitor.
I ran all the test’s their tech wanted and we both concluded that either the MB, CPU, or memory was at fault. Then we send it back and they say it booted right up.
What am I missing here??

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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I got the computer back today and it’s the same as when I sent it.
I’ve tried a new power cord, I hooked it up to my known good monitor, I plugged it into the same outlet that my computer works fine on, I used a VGA cord instead of HDMI.
Maybe there’s not enough pollution in the air out here in the desert like there is in Cleveland for this particular computer.
I called their support and he walked me through ALL the same test’s I did originally before sending it back. He said that it booted right up there and he ran it for 48 hrs. straight before shipping it back.
I just don’t freaking get it. :confused:

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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I got the computer back today and it’s the same as when I sent it.
I’ve tried a new power cord, I hooked it up to my known good monitor, I plugged it into the same outlet that my computer works fine on, I used a VGA cord instead of HDMI.
Maybe there’s not enough pollution in the air out here in the desert like there is in Cleveland for this particular computer.
I called their support and he walked me through ALL the same test’s I did originally before sending it back. He said that it booted right up there and he ran it for 48 hrs. straight before shipping it back.
I just don’t freaking get it. :confused:

Are you comparing like with like? It may work with HDMI at the retailers end but not with VGA at your end.

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Are you comparing like with like? It may work with HDMI at the retailers end but not with VGA at your end.

The point is that the computer won’t boot.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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The point is that the computer won’t boot.

But it does boot at the retailers! (or so they say.) Identifying any difference between how they tested it and how you use it should point out the culprit.

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The point is that the computer won’t boot.

From all that has been posted in this thread it seems the motherboard’s BIOS is halting during POST when attempting to initialise the onboard VGA (display).

Can you put your hands on a PCI-E VGA card and temporarily fit it to the PCI-E slot (yellow, PCI-E x16)?

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But it does boot at the retailers! (or so they say.) Identifying any difference between how they tested it and how you use it should point out the culprit.

Unfortunately, they aren’t specific about anything other than ” it booted right up the first time they turned it on “, even though I asked them their procedure.

From all that has been posted in this thread it seems the motherboard’s BIOS is halting during POST when attempting to initialise the onboard VGA (display).

Can you put your hands on a PCI-E VGA card and temporarily fit it to the PCI-E slot (yellow, PCI-E x16)?

No, I don’t have one. But as this thread has grown, the consensus is that this is a MB problem and now I seem to have to rely on the techs response of it booting right up for him.
I think your guess is probably accurate though because there is no ” Beep ” when I press the power button, even though all lights, fans come on and the HDD light only flashes 1 time and stops ( which tells me that there is no more HDD activity past that initial power ). Since BIOS won’t show, then it must be halting after the initial power.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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…Since BIOS won’t show, then it must be halting after the initial power.

Have you tried resetting the BIOS as in my #19 post? (see my #6 post at Blown Motherboard).

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Have you tried resetting the BIOS as in my #19 post? (see my #6 post at Blown Motherboard).

No, I did not try that procedure. I just did CLRTC. Interesting though.

If it does not post (the beep you are not hearing) or won’t go into BIOS, the M/B is shot.

Cheers,
Drew

That’s my opinion also and the tech support finally agreed to reassess the computer and do a complete rebuild if necessary. So THEY are going to pay shipping this time and pick it up on Monday. This computer went down on Oct. 26th and we are looking at probably not getting it back until in Dec. some time so it really p!$$es me off about the previous ship-back that we paid for.
Evidently it DID boot for the tech when he got it back though because he could tell me the number of users ( I had extra accounts on it for a shared folder that we use ) on the boot up screen. That’s what I really don’t understand, it booted there and refuses to boot here even though I have tried my known good monitor and cables, etc.
Anyway, they are going to pick it up Monday and hopefully replace all components except HDD’s and Optical Drives.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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It’s sad what you have gone through & the time w/out the computer. But, it is good news that they are taking responsibility, finally. They should begin by trying a new M/B & see how things go; might save a lot of time & fuss. That would be something to suggest.

Cheers,
Drew

According to what the tech told me on the phone, this should be close to a new build when it comes back. He said that if they can’t get an ASUS H87-Plus MB, he will put in a comparable or upgraded MB.
All we can do is hope that he is good to his word but I’m sure by now that he knows that I will be looking at all aspects of the returned computer.
I guess this thread will go on hiatus for a while until the computer returns and then I can hopefully mark it as solved.
I certainly appreciate all the help and observations I have received from all, especially Drew and Coochin which helped me to troubleshoot/confirm the problem.
Soooo, we will see what happens.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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Well, we got the computer back yesterday 12/9/14 ( computer died 10/26/14 ) and the tech evidently lied about a comparable or upgraded MB.
The computer now boots and runs fine BUT they downgraded the H87-Plus MB to a much cheaper and less functional B87-Plus. There’s no HDMI support etc. which is why I originally had her order the H87-Plus board. Now I understand why the tech would never answer my question about what MB he was going to replace it with. Not to mention that we paid shipping for the previous send-back where they said the computer was fine and shipped it back non-bootable just like we shipped it to them.
It states right in their warranty that replacement parts will be comparable or the option to upgrade if not in stock. None of that was done, they just slapped in a cheap MB.
This isn’t a rant, Just a heads up to anyone thinking about getting a computer from AllPCZone/ComputerLX in Cleveland. The warranty isn’t worth the paper it’s written on.
Very disappointing.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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I guess complaining to them will help a little bit. They have now offered to send an HDMI capable video card ( no mention of what card ). The saga continues although we should have had an option to upgrade the MB and that was never offered.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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Well, this finally comes to a close. They sent an ASUS GT610-SL-1GD3-L video card and I installed that today.They certainly didn’t spend any money on the card but it will probably suffice.
Obviously it still upsets me that they downgraded the board and here it is almost Christmas before things are finally fixed ( almost 2 months ). A lot of time was wasted when we paid shipping to them and they said that it booted just fine and sent it back unbootable just like it was when we sent it to them. Grrrrrr:mad:
Had I known they were going to downgrade ( unlike what their warranty says ), I would have just eaten the cost and ordered the MB and installed it myself.

Note: I want to thank EVERYONE that helped diagnose the problem so that I knew for sure what was wrong before
returning the computer to them.
I’ll let this set for a couple of days and if there are no comments, I will mark it as solved.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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…They sent an ASUS GT610-SL-1GD3-L video card and I installed that today.They certainly didn’t spend any money on the card but it will probably suffice…

Unless the computer is used for graphics-intensive work (such as high-end gaming, AutoCAD design work, high-level graphic design, etc.) that card should be more than adequate for your purposes.

Actually the motherboard/PCI-E VGA card combo you have now is certainly superior to the previous motherboard w/ onboard VGA/HDMI that failed.

“Methinks she doth complain too much” (W. Shakespeare, 1564-1616).

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I wouldn’t have been satisfied with that and would have pushed them to honour their warranty – however long it takes.

If you know someone with a Twitter account, you could tell them you’ll post a review of the service you have gotten from them – they won’t want any bad publicity.

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Unfortunately I don’t know anyone with a twitter account, but I would guess that this thread will show up if anyone googles AllPCZone/ComputerLX. There’s already been almost 10,000 views of this thread.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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Well, tell them you’ll open one yourself and post a review.

I think they’ve treated you shoddily and haven’t even done the min required as per their warranty.

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I think you should contact them and tell them you are not satisfied in that they have not met the terms of their warranty by fitting a lower spec MB – and quote the relevant bits to them and ask if they would like to see your review on Twitter of how they have they gone about this repair.

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We already told them that I was sorry that I recommended them to my girlfriend and there would not be another recommendation to anyone else in the future. I told them that if anyone asked me where to get a computer their name would be mentioned as somewhere to steer clear of.
To be honest, they build a nice computer but if anything goes wrong with it they put in any old parts they have on hand evidently. Bottom line, they don’t follow their own warranty policy which I stated in an earlier post.
BTW, Drew I like your signature picture.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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Take heed in what is publically posted, I’ve heard some vendors and businesses have pushed back. While you might be right as rain, you could end up wishing you remained on higher ground

"Take care of thy backups and thy restores shall take care of thee." Ben Franklin, revisted

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Take heed in what is publically posted, I’ve heard some vendors and businesses have pushed back. While you might be right as rain, you could end up wishing you remained on higher ground

You could be right Roland but this whole experience needs to be relayed in some form.

Unless the computer is used for graphics-intensive work (such as high-end gaming, AutoCAD design work, high-level graphic design, etc.) that card should be more than adequate for your purposes.

Actually the motherboard/PCI-E VGA card combo you have now is certainly superior to the previous motherboard w/ onboard VGA/HDMI that failed.

“Methinks she doth complain too much” (W. Shakespeare, 1564-1616).

Coochin, as I said, the card and MB combo will probably suffice for what she needs BUT, it was the process of getting there, especially since I specifically asked them to let me know what they were going to replace the MB with ( IE, we would have taken the option of upgrading and paying the difference as their warranty states ) and of course the problem of paying shipping for a dead computer that was shipped back ( in the same condition it was shipped in ) causing more delay in resolving the whole process.
I think I have more hours wrapped up in this computer than they do LOL. I’m certainly grateful for your post on narrowing down the problem because it was “Dead On” as to what happened.

Don't take yourself so seriously, no one else does
All W10 Pro at 22H2,(2 Desktops, 1 Laptop).

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